Tag: santiago

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Guide to spending a day in Santiago, Chile

We spent a day in Santiago, Chile as part of our 10-day Chilean Itinerary. We did this trip on Christmas eve and started the day with Plaza de Armas and ended the day with having dinner at a Peruvian place not far from Cerro Santa Lucía. Since it was Christmas eve, restaurants and cafes were closing by 3.30-4 but we still were able to do lots of things in 1 day to get a feel for the city.

Quick Summary

What we did: Started the day at Plaza de Armas by visiting the Metropolitan Cathedral and the surrounding area. Took a hop-on hop-off bus to get the lay of the city that included tickets Cable car ride to Cerro San Cristobal (booked through turistik ). Ended the day at Cerro Santa Lucia and had dinner at Barrio Lastarria neighborhood

Where we stayed: Apart Hotel B, Bellavista (https://www.aparthotelb.cl/)

Where we ate: Lunch – Mercado Central

Dinnner- Barrio Lastarria neighborhood cafes. This area was walking distance from the hotel and has tons of restaurants and cafes

Morning

  • Plaza de Armas: Visit the historic center of Santiago. The Plaza de Armas is the main square, surrounded by important buildings like the Metropolitan Cathedral and the Central Post Office, and the National Museum of Fine Arts It’s a great place to soak in the city’s history and culture.
  • National Museum of Fine Arts – This museum is free to enter, but we chose not to explore it. However, check out sculpture called Icaro y Dédalo located outside of the building. The inscription “United in Glory and Death” refers to the myth of Daedalus, who made wings to escape imprisonment. Icarus flew too high and too close to sun, causing his wings to melt, and he fell into the sea. The statue of the mourning father is a copy; the original by Rebeca Matte, Chile’s first female sculptor, is in Rio de Janeiro, Brazil.
  • Metropolitan Cathedral – Located in the northwest corner of Plaza de Armas, Santiago’s Metropolitan Cathedral is free to enter. Built in neoclassical style between 1748 and 1800, it features baroque elements like gilded columns and beautiful frescoes. Italian architect Joaquín Toesca designed the building. The stunning interior includes statues, an ornate altar with marble and lapis lazuli, and intricate stained glass. The ceiling was painted by Ignazio Cremonesi in 1906.
  • La Chascona: After visiting the plaza, if you have time, visit one of poet Pablo Neruda’s unique homes, known for its eclectic architecture and stunning views of the surrounding landscape. La Chascona offers a fascinating insight into the life and mind of one of Chile’s most beloved literary figures, showcasing his extensive art collection and personal artifacts that reflect his poetry and passion for life.

Afternoon

  • Cerro San Cristóbal: visit this iconic hill that rises majestically above the city. You can hike along the various trails, bike through scenic paths, or take the funicular to the top for stunning panoramic views of Santiago and the Andes. The fresh air and beautiful surroundings make it a perfect spot for outdoor enthusiasts. Don’t miss the statue of the Virgin Mary at the summit, which offers a perfect photo opportunity, and consider exploring the surrounding park for a complete experience.
  • Lunch at Mercado Central: This bustling market is famous for its seafood. Enjoy a delicious lunch of fresh fish or seafood stew at one of the many eateries inside.

Evening

  • Cerro Santa Lucía: For a beautiful sunset, visit this small hill in the city center. The top offers stunning views of the skyline and the Andes Mountains. As you climb, enjoy the charming paths, gardens, and fountains that provide a peaceful stroll. Cerro Santa Lucía has a rich history as a former military post turned public park, attracting both locals and tourists. Don’t forget your camera to capture the sunset and the diverse plants and animals in this urban oasis.
  • Barrio Lastarria – Is a vibrant neighborhood within walking distance from Cerro Santa Lucia and the perfect way to end the day by having dinner and drinks at one of the many cafes, and restaurants. We had one of the best pisco sours in a small cafe on the villavicencio street
One of the best Pisco Sours I had at the restaurant in Lastarria

Final thoughts

There are many things to do in Santiago, and you can spend a few days exploring the city and its vibrant culture. You can visit historical landmarks like the Plaza de Armas, immerse yourself in the local cuisine at bustling markets, and enjoy the stunning views from San Cristóbal Hill. Additionally, you can explore various museums, attend lively cultural festivals, and experience the warmth and friendliness of the local people, making your stay truly memorable.

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An ode to Valparaiso- day trip guide to visiting colorful hillside city Vaparaiso from Santiago

Immortalized by Pablo Neruda, a famous Chilean poet, Valparaíso is a port city renowned for its laid-back bohemian vibe and colorful street art. Nestled between steep hills and the Pacific Ocean, Valparaíso is characterized by its colorful houses, creating a picturesque landscape that captures the hearts of locals and visitors alike. The labyrinthine streets are adorned with striking murals and graffiti, reflecting the city’s rich culture and artistic spirit; each artwork tells a story of the community and its history. This lively city not only serves as a hub for artists and musicians but also offers charming cafés and bustling markets, making it an ideal destination for anyone seeking to immerse themselves in the unique, creative atmosphere that pervades Valparaíso.

  1. Ode to Valparaiso
  2. How to get to Valparaiso
  3. Things to do in Valpo
    1. Walk the streets of Valpo and appreciate the colorful murals and art
    2. Plaza Sotomoyer
    3. Fischer Stair and Gálvez Alley, Valparaiso
    4. La mami de Valparaíso- The little Grandma
    5. Piano Stairway
    6. Other noteworthy streets to visit
    7. Some of my favorite buildings and art works
    8. La Sebastiana
  4. Viña del Mar
  5. Final thoughts

Quick Summary

What we did- Visited and walked the streets of Valparaíso on Christmas Day (Dec 25th, 2022) as a self-guided day trip from Santiago, Chile. Famous for its colorful hillside neighborhoods, winding stairways, and abundance of street art, the port city of Valparaíso is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Both Valparaiso and Vin Del Mar can be visited on a day trip from Santiago

Where we ate—Since it was Christmas day, few places were open, so we went to a local place with no name but decent vegetarian food. On a regular day, there are many places in the Allegre and Conception areas.

Valparaiso Skyline with Lutheran Church

Ode to Valparaiso

Pablo Neruda, a legendary poet and politician in Chile, had a home in Valpo where he found inspiration away from Santiago. His house, La Sebastiana, is now a museum and can be visited and offers great city views. Neruda’s poem “Oda a Valparaíso” perfectly captures the essence of the vibrant port city. Below is a snippet of the peom in English. For the full peom in Spanish and English check out the page.

Valparaíso,
what an absurdity
you are,
how crazy:
a crazy port.
What a head
of disheveled
hills,
that you never finish
combing.
Never
did you have
time to dress yourself,
and always
you were surprised
by life.

How to get to Valparaiso

We were supposed to visit Valparaíso (or it is commonly known as Valpo) on a guided tour from Santiago, but after waiting 1.5 hours at supposed pick-up spot, we realized the guided tour operator wasn’t going to show up (booked through Viator). Our day was salvaged by the front desk operator at the hotel, who helped us figure out the bus route to Valpo and arranged an Uber to the bus station.

Valparaíso is 72 miles (116 km) from Santiago, and can be travelled by bus or car or guided tour from Santiago.

Bus– There are two main bus companies: Turbus and Pullman. Both buses depart from Terminal de Buses Pajaritos in the center of Santiago and take about 1.40-2.00 hours. We opted to go with Turbus on the way to Valpo and took Pullman on the way back. There is no real difference, and we chose whichever was leaving earliest.

Guided Tours – There are several guided tours available on Viator and GetYourGuide that have day trips from Santiago that include Valpo, Viña del Mar, and Casablanca Valley (wine tasting), such as this one.

Valpo guided tour- if you want an in depth tour of the murals and real behind the scenes story, check out this company and their classic Valpo Street Art Tours is supposed to be really good.

Things to do in Valpo

Walk the streets of Valpo and appreciate the colorful murals and art

Since our plans had changed from guided tour to self-guided tour, we decided just to walk the streets and check out some of the art work. My sister-in-law had done reaseach and knew some of the places to go. The majority of the street art is concentrated in the more tourist-centric district of Cerros Concepcion and Alegre, a short walk from the historic seaport neighborhood. You can take the cobbled tone stairs and steets go up and down the area which are lined by resturants, cafes, and murals.

Plaza Sotomoyer

After getting off the bus, we took a cab to Sotomoyer square to start our tour. This building is in Plaza Sotomoyer and it is one of my favorite buildings in Valpo.

Plaza Sotomoyer, the largest public center in the city and the heart of Barrio Puerto, features significant buildings such as the Monument to the Heroes of Iquique, housing Arturo Prat’s remains, and the Edificio Armada de Chile, formerly the Intendencia. It is also an archaeological site, containing the remains of the first official dock constructed with parts from the captured frigate Esmeralda. Initially named Plaza de la Aduana, then Plaza del Palacio, it was eventually named after 19th-century minister Rafael Sotomayor. On January 23, 1979, it was declared a Typical Chilean Zone, with the Edificio Armada de Chile recognized as a Historical Monument.

Fischer Stair and Gálvez Alley, Valparaiso

Fischer Stair and Gálvez Alley offer a vibrant experience for visitors in the city. Start your ascent from Urriola Street by taking Fischer Stair, also known as Colorful Stairs. As you climb, the bright colors create a visual delight. The lively atmosphere prepares you for the artistic views at the top. To the right on Gálvez Alley, another colorful staircase features lyrics from “Latinoamérica” by Calle 13. In Gálvez Alley, you can enjoy a burst of color and creativity with many murals and drawings perfect for photos. Here, you’ll discover one of the most magical corners of Valparaíso.

La mami de Valparaíso- The little Grandma

The mural of “la mami de Valparaíso,” which features a little grandma watching over the city, is located on Almirante Mont Street on Alegre hill. This significant artwork was created by the French collective Ella & Pitr.

Piano Stairway

One of the most photographed street art piecce is the paino stairway is in Beethoven passage on Concepcion Hill, next to Alegre Hill. It is a beuatiful stairway that is surrounded by several other murals that are worth seeing.

Other noteworthy streets to visit

  • Templeman Street: Located on Cerro Alegre, this street is a top place to see street art. 
  • Cerro Abajo: This hill is home to colorful art works below the park, down from the retaining wall. 
  • Calle Ecuador: This street is home to a row of houses, each with art in very different styles. 

Some of my favorite buildings and art works

Random Mural on Cerro Concepcion
Hotel Brighton 
Hotel Atkinson
Valparaíso, Cerro alegre
casa Proa Álvaro Besa (Cerro Alegre)
Baburizza Palace

La Sebastiana

We didn’t get the opportunity to see La Sabastiana, the ship-shaped home of Poet Pablo Neruda. Currently the house is a measum and you can check open times and tickets here

Accooding to legend, this was the request Poet had for a house in Valpo and he found it in La Sebastiana.

“I feel the fatigue of Santiago. I want to find a small house in Valparaíso where I can live and write in peace. It has to have certain conditions. It can’t be too high up or too low down. It should be solitary, but not too much. Neighbors, hopefully invisible. They shouldn’t be seen or heard. Original, but not uncomfortable. Very winged, but firm. Neither too big nor too small. Far from everything but close to transportation. Independent, but with shops nearby. It also has to be very cheap. Do you think I can find a house like that in Valparaíso?”

Viña del Mar

Vina Delmar is known as the garden city of Chile and is a vacation town. On Christmas Day, when we visited, there were plenty of Chileans relaxing with friends and family on the beach. One of the main highlights of Vina del Mar is the flower clock, and you climb the stairs behind the clock to get the view of the city.

Final thoughts

Valpo is an interesting place to visit. I am not a big fan of the place maybe because we visited on Christmas day when not too many things were open, but the whole city felt dirty and smelled of pee. The art is interesting, and if we had gotten our guided tour, we probably would have enjoyed it more. I felt that it is a good city to visit as a day trip if you have some extra time on your hands, but it is not a must-visit place