Every country has a comfort food that defines the culture and traditions. For Balkan countries it is Burek or Borek.
But first history lesson….
Burek, or Borek if you want to get fancy, started as one hungry camper’s dream, thanks to the nomadic Turks from Central Asia who thought, “Why settle for boring old bread on our long hikes?” Imagine them on their epic adventures saying, “Let’s deep-fry some dough and call it Burga!” And just like that, the ancestor of Burek popped into existence. As these traveling Turks carried their Burgas everywhere, they magically transformed into all kinds of tasty filled and layered goodies called Borek. For a crazy 500 years, the Ottoman Empire took this yummy snack on a wild ride through the Balkans. Even after the empire packed up and moved on, this lovable dish is still the big boss in the Balkans. Cooked over campfires, it went everywhere from Beijing to Barcelona, and from Modena to the Maghreb. Sure, it might have made its way to fancy tables of khans and kings, but honestly, it’s still the ultimate symbol of good vibes through all sorts of chaotic migrations, conquests, and crazy food adventures!
What is in a name….
Burek can be enjoyed at any time of the day and is popular in Mediterranean, Middle Eastern, Eastern European, and Western Asian cuisines. It has many names, including Borek, Bourekas, Pita, and Banista, and comes in various shapes like triangles, swirls, cigars, and round pies. In Croatia, Montenegro, and Serbia, cheese-filled Burek is known as Burek sa Sirom, while in Bosnia and Herzegovina, it’s called Sirnica. In Bulgaria and Macedonia, it’s referred to as Banitsa sas Sirene. Regardless of its name, shape, or filling, this tasty dish will continue to evolve.
Burek of Bosnia and Herzegovina….
Burek is made of layers of thin dough filled with different savory ingredients. Although it comes from Turkey, it has become a proud part of Bosnian cuisine. Many people believe that only the burek with ground beef can be called burek, but there are other types with different fillings, like sirnica (cottage cheese), zeljanica (spinach), and krompiruša (potatoes). On first day in Sarajevo, after waking up at 5 AM due to jet lag, I wandered around and found Pekara (Pekara- Bosnian word for Bakery) that served fresh and warm Burek. When I asked for cheese Burek, I was told that there is no such thing as Cheese Burek and what I wanted was Sirnica. Croatians are much more forgiving on the name, and I could get a cheese burek without any issues.
Burek is often baked in a spiral shape, especially in bakeries, while traditional restaurants usually serve it as a pie cut into pieces. It’s very popular throughout the Balkans, but in Bosnia and Herzegovina, it holds special cultural value. There are local sayings that suggest if a woman makes good burek, she is ready for marriage. In 2012, Lonely Planet included Bosnian burek in their book about the best street food in the world.
If you walk around Sarajevo, you’ll find many wonderful bakeries/Pekaras, each showing a glimpse of Bosnian culture. From flaky pastries to fresh bread, the bakery scene here is lively and varied, showcasing the area’s rich food history. Whether you want a savory burek or a sweet snack with your coffee, Sarajevo’s bakeries have something for everyone.
Best places to enjoy Burek
Buregdzinica Bosna
Bravadziluk 11 Old Town, Sarajevo 71000 Bosnia and Herzegovina
Located in the heart of old city, we stopped here on our food tour and tried few different versions, and my favorite version was one with the potato filling or krompiruša. I loved it so much that I went back to the restaurant and got it for dinner that night. This is restaurant is very busy and is more like a fast-food joint but food is amazing.
Right next to this restaurant, there is another restaurant that is famous for Ćevapi- grilled meat sausages, that are staple of Balkan Cuisine. We didn’t try this as most of us are vegetarians, but you can try two of the best Bosnian food right next to each other.
St Burek-Split, Croatia
Domaldova 13 21000 Split
This place was featured in Somebody feed Phil on Netflix and serves some amazing Burek. It is close to old city and near to lot of other good food places including Gelateria Emiliana (another place featured in Somebody feed Phil) and amazing place to try various Gelatos.
Final thoughts
Food scene in Bosnia as well as Croatia is amazing with local wines as well as various traditional dishes. We had a wonderful time tasting various traditional dishes including Burek and lots of gelato. I don;t we had one bad meal in the 9 days we were Balkans and I sometime crave the fresh breads and Potato burek I had in Sarajevo.
Peaks to Palaces 