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Tales from Balkans- Konjic: The “& ” in Bosnia and Herzegovina

Konjic is the town that connects Herzegovina with Bosnia and our guide jokingly said that Konjic is the “&” in Bosnia & Herzegovina. We visited Konjic on our Bosnia trip and did white water rafting in the Neretva River. Konjic like other cities in Bosnia, blends history, and nature especially popular for white water rafting and in fact when we were inn Konjic, they were holding the European rafting championships on the river.

Things to do in Konjic:

  1. Stara Ćuprija- The old bridge
  2. Boracko lake
  3. White water rafting on Neretva River
  4. Tito’s bunker on Zlatar mountain
  5. Final Thoughts

Stara Ćuprija- The old bridge

Built in 1682, the Old Bridge in Konjic is one of the most beautiful bridges from the Ottoman period in Bosnia and Herzegovina. The bridge, made of stone and consisting of six arches, is considered the point where Herzegovina merges with Bosnia. Alongside Mostar’s Old Bridge, Trebinje’s Arslanagića Bridge, and the Mehmed-paša Sokolović Bridge in Višegrad, the Old Bridge in Konjic is a significant cultural and historical monument of the country, declared a national monument of Bosnia and Herzegovina. Unfortunately, the original Old Stone Bridge was demolished on March 3, 1945, during the withdrawal of the German army, and a wooden structure stood in its place for a long time, serving as a crossing over the Neretva River. In 1962, the bridge was reconstructed with a concrete structure, restoring it to its original state. The renovated bridge was reopened on June 16, 2009, with the assistance of the Government of the Republic of Turkey.

Boracko lake

Located about 20 kilometres from Konjic, Boračko Lake is a glacial lake that lies at the base of Mount Prenj. We stopped here on the way to our white water rafting start point but I would definitely love to go back and explore this lake more. There are some bed and breakfast places near the lake and it is supposedly really beautiful in fall season. For more on this lake, check out this blog

White water rafting on Neretva River

Rafting on the Neretva River is a popular activity in Konjic, and we did ours through Visit Konjic rafting company. There are several providers, and they all seem to follow the same route. When we did our rafting in mid-June, 2024, we were on the only ones on the entire 22 km path, but our guide informed us that during peak season of July and August, there might be as many as 100 rafts on the water. We enjoyed having this amazing canyon to ourselves and felt like the scenery is right out of middle earth with lush green tress, waterfalls and beautiful canyons. During June, the rapids were level II and III and very manageable.

The white rafting take place in 26 kilometers long, the Rakitnica canyon that separates the Bjelašnica and Visočica mountains and connects Bosnia and Herzegovina and is one of the deepest canyons in Europe. Most rafting tours start from village of Glavatičevo  and end near the bridge of Konjic.

A typical itinerary for white water rafting looks like below and since we did this during off season, we started around 11 AM.

  • Arrival to Rafting Base Camp – Once we reached the base camp, we were given wet suits and changed into water shoes. After the safety briefing, off we went to the starting point in a minivan.
  • Departure towards the rafting start location in Glavaticevo -It takes about and hour to reach the starting point at village of Glavatičevo. The drive is beautiful and goes through the beautiful mountains. On the way to the village, we stopped at the Boracko Lake lookout point for photos.
  • Rafting start at – 12:00 After ariving to start point in Glavaticevo,we got in the rafts and started our descent towards Rakitnica Canyon where we did a 30 min stop for some snacks and swim.
  • Rakitnica Canyon Swim Stop -The first leg of the journey ended when we reached to the point where Rakitnica tributary river meets Neretva. This place is beautiful and we appreciated the crystal-clear waters and surrounding mountains.
  • Second leg of the Journey – 14:30 After a nice relaxing swim stop, we started on our second leg and arrived back at the base camp around 3.30PM. After a warm shower and a change of clothes, we had traditional Bosnian lunch made by the hosts.
Starting point
Rakitnica river joining Nerevta river
Waterfall in the canyon

Tito’s bunker on Zlatar mountain

Officially named the “Armijska Ratna Komanda” (ARK D-o), Tito’s bunker was built between 1953 and 1979. It served as an atomic shelter to protect the military command and 350 members of President Tito’s government in the event of a nuclear attack during the Cold War. It is now a museum and visit it when you are in Konjic

Final Thoughts

Konjic is a beautiful place and has lots to do. We did a day trip from Sarajevo, but you can definitely spend couple of days here to truly appreciate all Konjic has to offer.

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Tales from Balkan- Blagaj Tekke-A peaceful oasis

  1. Where is Blagaj
  2. Blagaj Tekke the dervish retreat
  3. Best place to take photos of the Tekke
  4. Entrance fee

Where is Blagaj

The village of Blagaj na buni is located about 10 km (6 miles) from Mostar that could be reached by bus or car. The main attraction of the village is the Tekke or Tekkja – a place of spiritual retreat and reflection for Dervish monks. The unique feature of this Tekke is that it is built on a solid rocky soil at the right side of the source of the Buna River. A very high cliff stretches above the Tekija (240 meters high). On top of the cliff, you can see the remains of Stjepan Vukcic-Kosaca’s fort-town from the Middle Ages. The Buna River that flows adjacent to the monastery emerges from under the massive Karst stone formation after traveling over 19 kms underground.

Spring of Buna River

Blagaj Tekke the dervish retreat

The primary purpose of the structure was to serve as a dervish Zikr praise-chanting (praising God and His names) venue and a retreat, and it is still active religious complex with Zikir praise chanting happening 3 times a week. The tekke was built around 1520 and it features elements of both Ottoman architecture and Mediterranean style. The dervishes follow a mystical strand of Islam in which the peaceful contemplation of nature plays a part, hence the Tekke’s idyllic positioning next to the river.

You can go inside the building by paying 10 marks and there are several different rooms including a kitchen, guest house, hammam, a room for praying, tombs, and a courtyard. There are some interesting features including the perforated dome in the hammam and beautiful wooden ceiling of  semahana, or the room used to perform zikr (religious chanting).

Best place to take photos of the Tekke

To get the iconic reflection of the Tekke in the water, you need to get the other side of the river. Cross-over the first bridge and walk behind the restaurants until you see a set of stairs that lead to the viewpoint.

Stairs leading to other side of the river to get the iconic photos

Entrance fee

There is an entrance fee to go inside the Tekke- It is 10 marks/ 4-5 euros. Women are expected to cover their head and arms as well as wear long skirts. These are provided free of cost at the entrance.

Other things to do around Blagaj

There are several restaurants around Blagaj and you can get traditional food and drinks and enjoy the peaceful surroundings.

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Tales from Balkan-Jablanica: story of thrice destroyed bridge, Picaso, and lamb

Jablanica: Where Natural Beauty Meets History and Gastronomy

Halfway between the cities of Sarajevo and Mostar is the town of Jablanica. It is located in the beautiful Neretva River valley and is known for its natural beauty, cultural heritage, and roasted lamb. We stopped here on our way to Mostar after whitewater rafting in Konjic, another charming little town about 20 km away.

Jablanica has several notable attractions, including the picturesque man-made Jablanica Lake, perfect for boating and fishing, as well as the pristine Neretva River, which offers rafting and kayaking. The high peaks of Mt. Prenj and Mt. Čvrsnica are known for their challenging hiking trails, making it a paradise for nature lovers. Along with incredible nature, Jablanica steeped in history specially played key role in second world war.

Jablanica Bridge- A thrice destroyed bridge

Jablanica Bridge

Jablanica Bridge holds a significant place in history, having witnessed destruction and restoration multiple times. The first instance was a clever ruse, orchestrated to outwit Nazi forces during World War II. Subsequently, the bridge fell victim to an actual attack, succumbing to the ravages of warfare. Remarkably, its story continued to unfold even after the war, as it was reconstructed for the filming of “The Battle of Neretva,” only to be meticulously destroyed once again as part of the movie production. Each of these events contributed to the bridge’s enduring legacy, perpetuating its role as a symbol of resilience and historical significance.

Visitors can explore remnants of the conflict and visit the Museum of Battle for the Wounded, offering an immersive experience into the town’s historical significance and the bravery of those who fought for freedom.

The Battle of Neretva movie and Pablo Picaso’s poster

The movie “Battle of the Neretva” depicts the true story of the Yugoslav partisans fighting against the Nazi invaders during World War II. In a powerful gesture, Picasso created the poster for this movie and incorporated elements from his artwork “The Rape of the Sabine Women” into the film’s poster, symbolizing the battle against oppression. Picasso declined payment for his work, requesting instead a box of the finest Yugoslav wine containing 12 bottles.

Roast lamb on Lamb alley

The Jablanica area is known localy well known for its ‘jagnjetina’, lamb meat made in old tradition of roasting sheep over an open fire brought fame to a series of restaurants on the main road (M17) south of the town. This part of M17 is known as lamb alley. Our friends from Mostar suggested that we should try Restoran Kovacevic Jablanica not only for the lamb but also for the view form the restaurant. We stopped at the restaurant for the view (mostly vegetarians in our group) and it was absolutely beautiful. In most the restaurant on lamb alley you can watch the sheep being roasted on a spike in the traditional way

View from the kovacevic restaurant

Final thoughts

We stopped at Jablanica on our way to Mostar after spending most of the day white water rafting in Konjic but Jablanica definitely needs more time than we spent to truly appreciate all it has to offer. There are a few tour companies that offer specific 1-3 day trips( sich as visitJabalnica to Jablanica and based on what we saw, 2 days in Jablanica might be good to truly appreciate the place

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Stories from Istanbul-Rustem Pasha Mosque: the other blue mosque

  1. Rustem Pasha mosque- a hidden gem
  2. Where is Rustem Pasha mosque located
  3. RÜSTEM PASHA MOSQUE OPENING HOURS (2024)
  4. Entrance fee
  5. Final thoughts

There are over 3000 mosques in Istanbul, the most famous being the Blue Mosque or the Sultanahmet Mosque. The blue mosque gets its name from the interior of the mosque that is lined with more than 20,000 blue colored, handmade ceramic tiles from İznik, which are richly decorated with flowers, trees, and abstract patterns. Above the tiles the walls are painted with various motifs, also in a blue color. However, three are 2 other mosques in Istanbul that also have the blue interior and covered in Iznik tiles– Sokullu Mehmed Pasha Mosque, and Rustem Pasha mosque.

Rustem Pasha mosque- a hidden gem

Rüstem Pasha Mosque, a hidden gem and magnificent work of Mimar Sinan, nestled in the bustling market of Istanbul near Golden horn is a miniature version of the iconic Blue Mosque without the crowds. In fact, when we visited on a Thursday afternoon in June of 2024, there were only 3 other people in the mosque. We had visited blue mosque earlier that afternoon and it was buzzing with 100s of people.

The mosque was designed and built in 1561 by the renowned Ottoman imperial architect Mimar Sinan for Grand Vizier and son-in-Law of Suleiman the magnificent- Rüstem Pasha. The mosque is built in a rectangular shape with semi domes around the main dome that are seated over four elephant feet and columns. Both inside and outside are made of white marble and interior of the mosque is one of the most embellished mosques with 7227 pieces of hand-made Iznik tiles containing 36 tulip motifs and 5 different colors. 850 of these tiles have calligraphy written on them.

Dome of Rustem Pasha Mosque
Mihrab of Rustem Pasha mosque
Dome of Rustem Pasha Mosque
Elephant columns

Where is Rustem Pasha mosque located

Address:  Rüstem Paşa, Hasırcılar Cd. No:62, 34116 Fatih/İstanbul, Türkiye

Rustem Pasha mosque can be challenging to locate but it is close to Spice Bazar and Yeni Camii mosque and located in the Hasırcılar Çarşısı (Strawmat Weavers Market) in the Tahtakale neighborhood of the Fatih district . From Yeni Cami, head toward the Spice Market, turning right up a small road at a large coffee shop. Further down this small street there are set of access stairs on Hasırcılar Caddesi and another on the small street that runs right (north) off Hasırcılar Caddesi towards the Golden Horn. At the top of the stairs, there’s a terrace and the mosque’s colonnaded porch

rustem pasha mosque
Entrance to the mosque
Outside courtyard

RÜSTEM PASHA MOSQUE OPENING HOURS (2024)

Rüstem Pasha Mosque is open daily from 10 am to 6 pm, with closures during prayer times and religious holidays such as Ramadan.

Entrance fee

There is no fee to enter but it is an active mosque and please be mindful of prayer hours

Final thoughts

Rustem Pasha mosque is a magnificent masterpiece of Mimar Sinan and definitely worth a visit and you can appreciate the intricate design of the Iznik tiles without the crowds of the blue mosque

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Tales from Balkans-A country divided against itself- Memories of a war

The Bosnian War (1992–95) had a significant impact on the cultural landscape of Bosnia and Herzegovina. As a former Yugoslav republic with a multiethnic population comprising Bosniaks (Bosnian Muslims), Serbs, and Croats, the war sparked bitter fighting among these groups and involvement from the Yugoslav army. The resulting death toll of over 100,000 people, mostly Bosniaks, left emotional scars and deep ethnic and political divides across the region. Despite the suffering, we found Bosnians to be generous and kind people. The war has certainly influenced their perspective on life, as our guide mentioned that many Bosnians prefer to work until they have enough money to live a comfortable life rather than being rich.

During our time in Bosnia, the impact of the war was evident everywhere. The destruction caused by the conflict was unmistakable, particularly with iconic structures like the 427-year-old Mostar stone bridge, which was destroyed during the war and subsequently rebuilt. Additionally, the Sarajevo city hall, once the national library, fell victim to fire in 1992, resulting in the destruction of two million books, articles, and magazines that had reflected the multicultural life of the region under the Ottoman and Austro-Hungarian empires.

Sarajevo roses- Everything but a flower

During the siege of Sarajevo from 1992 to 1995, the city endured relentless bombardment by enemy forces. On average, over 300 shells rained down on the city each day, reaching a devastating peak of 3,777 shells on July 22nd, 1993. When mortar rounds struck concrete surfaces, they left behind distinctive fragmentation patterns resembling flowers, which were later filled with red resin, earning them the name “Sarajevo Roses.” These marks serve as silent memorials people who lost their lives at each location during the siege. Scattered across Sarajevo, these blood-like stains stand as a poignant reminder of the war and the city’s resilience. For more information about the Siege of Sarajevo, you can visit Memories of a War.

Approximately 200 Sarajevo Roses were originally present throughout the city, but due to lack of upkeep and the rebuilding of the city, only about 28 remain. Despite the difficulty of being so close to reminders of death every day, it is important to remember what happened in Sarajevo. You can find one of these roses in front of the Sacred Heart Cathedral, another one close to City Hall, and one near the entrance of the Tunnel of Hope.

Sarajevo Rose at Sacred Heart Cathedral

Mortar holes in Mostar

The battles scars in Mostar are much more visible compared to Sarajevo. Decades after the ending of the war, there are still many empty and abandoned buildings. Ther are many building in the old town Mostar close to the bridge that was riddled with holes from the mortar attached, and visible bomb damage. Near the stone bridge, there is a rock wit inscription that stats Don’t forget 93 referring to the war on the Onescukova street that served as the war frontline.

Stories told by our guides

Most of the guides that we hired were old enough to remember the war and lived through it. One of our guides, Stefan, who spent three days with us in Croatia, told us that he was only two years old when the war happened, but he lost his father during the conflict. Growing up without a fatherly figure to guide him, Stefan got into a lot of trouble with his friends from school. He mentioned that not having a father wasn’t that unusual and he wasn’t treated as anything special, as most of his classmates also had lost their patents in the war.

In Mostar, we stayed in a house owned by friends of friends who fled to Atlanta, US during the war, and the house was completely demolished. The family rebuilt the house, and we were fortunate to stay with them and hear first-hand about their war experiences and how it had completely changed their lives. The host had worked as a hotel manager in Mostar before the war, and the hotel was completely destroyed. He took us to a local restaurant right across from the damaged hotel, which is finally being rebuilt.

“Christmas Eve/Sarajevo 12/24”

Photo: Cellist Vedran Smailovic in the bombed National Library in Sarajevo
Credit: Michael Evstafiev/AFP/Getty Images

Vedran Smailovic brought hope to Sarajevo during very difficult time in Bosnian war. In 1992, a group of people waiting to buy bread in a market were hit by mortar shells, resulting in 22 deaths. Vedran Smailovic, a well-known cellist in the city, was deeply affected by this event. The following day, he went to the spot, which was covered in flowers as a tribute, and started playing his cello. He hadn’t planned it, but he did it instinctively, and as people gathered around him, there was a sense of healing. He played there for 22 days, in honor of the 22 who had been killed, performing the same piece, Albinoni’s Adagio in G minor. Despite the presence of snipers on the hills, the cellist continued to play, risking his life. For another two years, he played at various locations in the city, amidst the ruins, dressed in a white shirt and black tailcoat, as if he were on stage in an orchestra. He soon became a symbol of courage for Sarajevo and the world. This story has been immortalized by Trans-Siberian Orchestra’s “Christmas Eve / Sarajevo” – iconic instrumental piece tells the story of Vedran Smailović during Bosnian war. I have this heard this song so many times during Christmas and didn’t realize it based on Vedran until I was visited Sarajevo. If you want to, you can watch the Trans-Siberian song /video here

All these stories are poignant reminders of horrors of war and effect on the cultural fabric of the country and its people. They also show the resiliency of the people and perseverance of hope despite unimaginable horrors.

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Tales from Balkans- Sahat-Kula: world’s only public lunar clock

Don’t watch the clock; do what it does. Keep going

Right next to the Gazi Husref-bey mosque in old town Sarajevo, stands a clock tower known as Sahat-Kula that displays time in a unique way, following lunar “a la turca” time which means that time is set according to that day’s sunset, when its hand must be firmly on 12. Without a manual reset, the clock would stop functioning within a week.  The times of prayers are also determined according to the Clock Tower, and during Ramadan the Clock is responsible for determining the time of iftar (breaking fast). The clock tower was built in the 16th century by Gazi Hursref Bey, and in 1876, after the original clockface was broken, the current one was installed and has been working since then.

Muvekit (clock keeper) 

Since the sunset changes every day depending on the season, the clock must be regulated often, and this is the job for the muvekit or the clock keeper. Current clock keeper is Mensur Zlatar, has a regular job as a jeweler near grand Gazi Husrev-beg mosque and his second job is to keep the clock tower running. Twice a week since 1967, Zlatar has climbs the 76-step tower of Sahat-Kula, to set the time.

Even during the 1990s war in former Yugoslavia, when Sarajevo was under siege for 1425 days and it was dangerous for people to go out as snipers from surrounding hills would shoot any civilian, Zlatar still climbed the steps of Sahat-Kula to set the time every week. He scaled it back to once a week during the war and since then has resumed his twice-weekly climb (This Man Keeps Time on the World’s Last Lunar Clock)

And that’s the heart of wabi-sabi—not the perfect tick of a quartz watch, but the weathered hands of a man who climbs for time. A clock that needs human touch. A ritual that has lasted because it’s flawed, fragile, and yet enduring.

Where modern life seeks precision, Sahat-Kula answers with presence.

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Mountains of the Imagination-Best sunrise spots, hikes, and 42 mile scenic loop in Grand Teton National Park

We went to Grand Teton as part of our weeklong trip to Yellowstone and Grand Tetons. Check out the weeklong itinerary for Yellowstone and Grand Teton here. Grand Teton National Park should absolutely be on everyone’s list and there is so much to do and spending couple of days in the park is totally worth it. We loved the beautiful scenery with snow covered mountains, alpine lakes, and plenty of wild animals including moose (only sighting of moose in my life). Here are some of the things we did in 2.5 days when we visited.

  1. View from Jackson Lake Lodge
  2. Signal Mountain viewpoint
  3. Sunrise at Oxbow bend
  4. Jenny Lake Boat ride and hike to Inspiration point
  5. Snake river rafting
  6. 42 mile scenic loop
  7. Delta Lake Hike
  8. Final thoughts

View from Jackson Lake Lodge

We stayed at Jackson Lake Lodge and the views from lobby and restaurant were absolutely amazing. The 60-foot floor to ceiling windows in the lobby gives visitors one of the most awe-inspiring views of the famed mountains. We also dined at the Blue Heron restaurant at Jackson Lake Lodge which has an outside patio seating with absolutely best views and delicious huckleberry cocktails. Even if you are not staying in the hotel, I highly recommend visit to the lobby and eating at one of its 3 restaurants. Unlike other national parks, the restaurants at Grand Teton are more upscale and had better variety of food. Mural room restaurant is the upscale version of the 3 and needs reservations while the Pioneer grill is more casual. We liked Blue Heron the best and had dinner couple of nights here.

Huckleberry cocktail with a view
View from the lobby

Signal Mountain viewpoint

Signal Mountain

The Signal Mountain Summit Road climbs 800 ft/242 m to panoramic views of the Teton Range, Jackson Hole, and Jackson Lake. There are two overlooks that provide valley views-East View Overlook, with views of the Jackson Hole Valley below and Jackson Point Overlook where you will see gorgeous views of the Teton Range, including Mt. Moran.

Singal Mountain summit road starts about mile from the Signal Mountain Lodge and has clear signs at the entrance. It is 5-mile narrow winding road that is frequented by bears and mule deer.

Pro tip: Don’t forget to take bug spray. In July, there were tons of mosquitoes and other bugs at the summit.

East view overlook of Signal Mountain

Sunrise at Oxbow bend

There are few spots in Grand Teton that are photographer’s dream for sunrise photos- Oxbow Bend, Schwabacher’s Landing, Mormon row, Snake River overlook, Signal Mountain, willow flats, Jack Tail ponds overlook, Jackson lake dam etc. but we saw the best sunrise at the oxbow bend.

We set out to go to Schwabacher’s Landing for sunrise photos but as we were passing Oxbow bend, we realized that sun was coming up and decided to take phots from Oxbow bend instead which was just off the road and only couple of miles from Jackson Lake lodge. It was one of those sunrises that moves you and fills you with awe.

Jenny Lake Boat ride and hike to Inspiration point

After the spectacular sunrise at Oxbow bend, we decided to hike the Jenny Lake trail. The parking lot at Jenny Lake gets filled very fast and we decided to be at the lake around 7 for the first boat ride. Chek out the timing and opening hours of jenny lake boat ride here. There are several hikes that you can do around Jenny Lake and most popular and family friendly one is taking the boat across Jenny Lake and hiking to Hidden falls and Inspiration point.

Jenny Lake boat dock: Hidden Falls is a 1/2-mile hike from the boat dock on the west side, and Inspiration Point is 1 mile away.

The trail is rocky but well-maintained and closer to falls, the trail climbs gradually. The path goes next to a babbling brook and there are wooden bridges along the way. From Hidden falls to Inspiration point is another mile hike and the path is very rocky and narrow (see the photo below). At times, you might have to stop to let the people from the opposite direction pass. Inspiration point provides beautiful panoramic views of the jenny lake and surrounding mountains

Hidden Falls

Narrow path going towards Inspiration point
View from Inspiration point

Snake river rafting

Another fun activities especially if you have little kids is the snake river rafting. Float a beautiful and scenic 10-mile stretch of the river inside Grand Teton National Park with experienced river guides share in-depth knowledge about local flora and fauna and the area’s rich history. We went this trip with Grand Teton Lodge company and they pick up and drop off at Jackson lake lodge. The whole trip took about 5 hours from start to finish.

View of Tetons from Snake river

42 mile scenic loop

Mormon Row
Schwabacher’s Landing

The 42-Mile Scenic Loop Drive in Grand Teton National Park is a fantastic way to experience the park’s beauty. We stopped at some of the 24 spots during different activities such as Sunrise at Oxo bend, Sunset at Signal Mountain, Rafting on Snake River.

What to See: There are 24 stops along the route, including iconic spots like Moulton Barns on Mormon Row, Snake River Overlook, Jenny Lake Loop Drive, Signal Mountain, and Schwabacher’s Landing

Scenic Loop Drive: The drive consists of two roads: HWY 191/89/26 (Outer Road) and Teton Park Road (Inner Road). You can start from three entry points:

Moose Junction: Drive north on HWY 191/89/26 from Jackson.

Moran Junction: Accessible from Dubois in the east via Togwotee Pass.

Jackson Lake Junction: If coming from Yellowstone to the north

Best Time to Do the Drive: The scenic loop is beautiful year-round, but summer and fall offer stunning views.

Duration: Depends on the number of stops but plan at least 3-6 hours.

The List of 24 includes:

  • Moulton Barns on Mormon Row
  • Blacktail Ponds Overlook
  • Dornans Village
  • Glacier View Overlook
  • Schwabacher’s Landing
  • Teton Point Overlook
  • Snake River Overlook
  • Cunningham Cabin
  • Elk Ranch Flats Overlook
  • Oxbow Bend Overlook
  • Jackson Lake Dam
  • Catholic Bay
  • Chapel of the Sacred Heart
  • Signal Mountain Lodge
  • Signal Mountain Summit Drive
  • Potholes Turnout
  • Mount Moran Turnout
  • Mountain View Turnout
  • Cathedral Group Turnout
  • Jenny Lake Scenic Drive and Overlook
  • Cascade Canyon Turnout
  • Teton Point Turnout
  • Windy Point Turnout
  • Chapel of Transfiguration & Menor Ferry Historic District

Delta Lake Hike

Delta Lake

Delta lake trail was once a hidden gem but lot more people know about it now and it is less hidden . Delta lake trail is not supported by Grand Teton National park and you will not find it in the suggested hikes (Check out various hikes in Grand Teton here) . Not supported by National Park means the trail is not kept up or maintained by the National Park Service. There are no official trail markers or signs on this trial once you leave the official trail going towards Amphitheater and Suprise Lakes. But no worries… there are plenty of people hiking this trial even at 7AM when we started and unofficial markers such as Cairns keep you on the right path.

All trails describe this hike as “Discover this 7.4-mile out-and-back trail near Moose, Wyoming. Generally considered a challenging route. This is a very popular area for hiking, so you’ll likely encounter other people while exploring. The best times to visit this trail are May through October. You’ll need to leave pups at home — dogs aren’t allowed on this trail”. This was a tough hike for me but the view at the end is amazing and totally worth it. There are several well written blog posts such as this one as well as this one will help you to navigate this tough hike and since it is unmarked trail, you need to where you are going.


Final thoughts

Grand Teton National Park is often overlooked compared to its more famous neighbor Yellowstone, but we enjoyed Tetons more than we thought we would. The food inside the park was better than Yellowstone and scenery is absolutely beautiful. This park is more compact compared to Yellowstone and less busy but offers quite a lot to do and spending at least couple of days in this park is totally worth it.

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Tales from Balkan: Inat Kuća, or “House of Spite”- Symbol of Bosnian stubbornness

Right opposite to the City hall in Sarajevo, across the bridge there is a unique Bosnian restaurant named Inat Kuća, or “House of Spite”. More than being just an oddly named restaurant, this place was once a house that belonged to a Bosnian man named Benderija. I decided to check out this place out of pure curiosity and sat outside the patio and drank Rakija and people watched.

Inside the house of Spite restaurant

The restaurant menu also talks about the history of the place and why it is called house of spite. As the story goes, the house was originally located across the river where the current city hall resides. In the late 19th century, Austria-Hungary was transforming Sarajevo into a model colony. As part of this makeover, they began constructing a magnificent city hall. However, an elderly Bosnian man Benderija stood in their way. Despite generous offers, he refused to let them demolish his house. After lengthy negotiations  between the old man and the city (with even the Austro-Hungarian Minister of Finances getting involved) until finally, in 1895, he agreed to sell his property for the extravagant price of a sackful of gold ducats, but with one condition: the authorities would have to move his Ottoman-era house, brick by brick, and rebuild it on the other side of the river.

According to our guide, the old man spent every day of the move sitting in the middle of a nearby bridge, smoking cigarettes and watching the workers transport each brick across the river. When the house was finally rebuilt, it was aptly named Inat Kuća, or the House of Spite. 

City hall from house of Spite

The food and drink were really good and views are definitely worth it to visit this place.

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Tales from Balkans- Buna Canals where river Neretva kisses River Buna

Location: The canals are situated just south of Mostar, near the M-17 highway. They mark the confluence of the Neretva River with its left tributary, the Buna. We stopped here on our way to Počitelj from Mostar. It is about 12Km from Mostar

What is it: It is natural wonder where narrow channel of the Neretva River merges with the Buna River (Same River that originates from cave at Blagaj) over travertine barriers. Unlike typical confluence of rivers, at this place, the rivers flow next to each other, and merge through a series of waterfalls.

It is best to visit this place in the summer when river water is low, and the canals can be seen in their full glory. During winter months, snow melt creates a high water in the river, and you won’t be able to see the canals and waterfalls in their full glory. The Neretva River is slightly more than three meters wide in that part, and the rivers join in a length of about 300 meters and continue towards Adriatic Sea.

Even though it is more popular now, when we visited Buna canals in mid-June, 2024, we were the only tourists other than a lone bicycle rider that had stopped to take photos. The bridge to the Buna canals runs close to old Ćiro railway, now converted into bike path.

Kayaking and Canoeing- Another claim to glory for Buna canals is that in the eighties, these canals were used for World and European Kayaking championships as these canals provide natural water pathways that are difficult and demanding than anything man could create.

If you are in Mostar or travelling towards Split from Mostar, Buna Canals is definitely a great stop to appreciate the beauty of Bosnia and Herzegovina.

Clear waters of Neretva River at Buna Canals
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Some like it hot! My favorite Yellowstone’s hot springs, Geysers, Mud pots, travertine terraces, Fumaroles*, lakes and waterfalls

** The title of the blog is from a book written by Susan Neider. This book a visual portrait of some of best thermal features of Yellowstone

  1. Thermal Features
    1. Saphire pool
    2. Beryl Spring
    3. Grand Prismatic Spring
    4. Terrace Spring
    5. Dragon’s Mouth Spring
    6. Artists paint pots
  2. Yellowstone lake
  3. Waterfalls of Yellowstone

Thermal Features

According to National Park Service’s there are 5 types of hydrothermal features in Yellowstone and it is pretty easy to see each one if you spend a day or two in Yellowstone. According to NPS, the five hydrothermal features are differentiated as:

  1. Hot springs: Pools of hydrothermally heated water.
  2. Geysers: Hot springs with constrictions in their plumbing, which causes them to periodically erupt to release the pressure that builds up.
  3. Mudpots: Hot springs that are acidic enough to dissolve the surrounding rock, and typically also lack water in their systems.
  4. Travertine terraces: Hot springs that rise up through limestone, dissolve the calcium carbonate, and deposit the calcite that makes the travertine terraces.
  5. Fumaroles: These hot features, also known as steam vents, lack water in their system, and instead constantly release hot steam.

Saphire pool

Often ignored by most Yellowstone visitors, Biscuit basin and its Saphire pool is worth a visit and one of my top recommendations for must visit places in Yellowstone. The thermal pools in Biscuit basin have the prettiest jewel colors and have pretty names like Black opal pool, Saphire pool etc. The Avoca Spring and shell geyser are worth seeing too.

Beryl Spring

The first thermal feature that we stopped on our way to Midway Geyser basin is the Beryl Spring and it is conveniently located on the side of the road, and you can see the steam coming from it well in advance. This spring is named after Beryl gemstone as the water is blue-green color and is one of hottest thermal features in the park with temperatures reaching up to 196F/91C. The steam you see before reaching the spring comes from the vent sitting behind the spring and it sounds a like roaring jet engine.

Grand Prismatic Spring

This is the most iconic Yellowstone hot springs with its red, orange, green and blue color and is the largest hot spring in the park. There are 2 ways to view this beautiful spot and we did both to appreciate a closer as well as from the overlook around noon where the colors are brighter without too much steam obstructing the view.

At midway geyser basin, you can take the boardwalk to get an up-close look at the Grand Prismatic spring. The colors of the spring are attributed to microbial mats around the edges of the mineral-rich water. The mats produce colors ranging from green to red.

However, if you want to see the Grand Prismatic Spring from the vantage point of its overlook, you will need to access that trail from a parking lot located a mile further down the road on the Grand Loop drive at Trailhead to Grand Prismatic Overlook and Fairy Falls. It is about a mile walk and colors brightest around noon time.

Terrace Spring

This was one of my favorite geothermal ponds that is right next to the grand loop road and has 2 bubbling hot pools and yellow flowers that line pond’s edge. The overall effect of pond with flowers and thermal pools is very unique and eye catching

Dragon’s Mouth Spring

Dragon’s mouth spring is part of the mud volcano area and one of my favorite unique thermal springs in Yellowstone. It is a cavern which looks like a dragon’s mouth and smoke bellows out frequently. The gray colored waters in the cave create a hissing sound that seem to originate from the deep inside the tunnel. Definitely worth stopping for a visit and walking around the boardwalk
 

Mud Volcano

Artists paint pots

Artists pain pots is one of the easiest and most unique thermal features in Yellowstone with a collection of colorful hot springs and mud pots. The area is called paint pots as the mud pots resemble paint pots due to their palette of earthy colors.

Mudpots are thermal features with limited water supply and the microorganisms growing in the mud pots generate gases which escape through the wet clay mud creating giant bubbles and unusual midair shapes. I was able to capture a giant bubble as it burst from the gasses. The area definitely smells like rotten eggs but the mud pots are fascinating to watch

Yellowstone lake

Covering about 132 square miles with 141 miles of shoreline, it is hard to miss Yellowstone Lake. Lake Lodge in the Yellowstone is located on the shoreline, and it has a large porch with rocking chairs offering the view of Yellowstone Lake. Although it is not a thermal feature, this was one of my favorite spots in Yellowstone. We had dinner at the restaurant on day 2 of our trip and spent some time on the front porch watching elks and having a drink. The main lodge is constructed of logs and is the focal point of this classic and comfortable building and looked like great place to stay.

Waterfalls of Yellowstone

Other than Grand Canyon of Yellowstone which has 2 falls-upper and lower, there are several other waterfalls throughout the park . We pulled over couple of times after seeing the waterfalls on the side of the Grand loop road. 2 of my favorites include Gibbon falls and Tower falls

Gibbon Falls-This is 80ft waterfall right off the grand loop road at the Madison and Norris Junctions with easy access to the parking lot. There is an upper deck where you see most people taking photos, but lower deck has better views and fewer people.

Tower falls-Located in the northeastern part of Yellowstone about 2.2 mile south of Tower-Rosevelt and Canyon village, this fall plunges a stunning 132 feet. The unusual rock columns north of the fall were created by lava flow and forms quite contrasting landscape to the falls