From the time I saw photos of the roof of front hall of Sarajevo city hall, I have been intrigued by this building. On our 1st day stay in Sarajevo I woke at 6 AM to and wondered around the old town and landed up in front of the city hall around 7AM. The building wasn’t even open but when I peeked in, the guard ushered me in and let me take couple of photos of the ceiling. I went back around 9 when it opened and spent next few hours walking around and admiring the architecture and history of the building as well as its role as the symbol of culture, history and resilience of Sarajevo.
History of Vijećnica
The construction of the Sarajevo City Hall, also known as Vijećnica, was a significant architectural endeavor that symbolized the Austro-Hungarian influence in the region. The Austro-Hungarian administration, upon assuming control of the Bosnian region in 1878, embarked on an ambitious modernization program aimed at transforming the infrastructure and institutions of the area. In addition to the construction of the City Hall, efforts were made to develop and enhance vital elements of the region’s infrastructure, encompassing the building of roads and railways to facilitate transportation, as well as the establishment of educational institutions to foster the intellectual growth of the population.
Alexandar Wittek designed City Hall in Neo-Moorish style, making multiple trips to Cairo to study similar buildings. After Wittek’s alleged mental illness and suicide (some ascribe this to the design and challenges of the city hall), Ćiril M. Iveković took over the project, making some adjustments and completing it in 1894.
In 1947 the city hall was converted into Academy of Sciences and Arts, and as well as the main library and served as the library until 1992. During the siege of Sarajevo in 1992, the city hall was heavily damaged and about 2 million books, magazines and other articles were forever lost. Since then, the city hall has been restored to its original glory and is now open to public to visit.
There is another interesting piece of history associated with city hall and stubbornness of Bosnians. There is house/restaurant across the city hall near the Sarajevo sign and it is known as Inat Kuca – house of spite. Definitely check it out when you at city hall and get a rakija and enjoy the view.
Apart from the beautiful architecture of the building there is a permanent museum at the basement level of the building. The theme of the museum is Sarajevo 1914-2014″, which deals with life in Sarajevo during the last century. Visitors can explore various exhibition spaces dedicated to the city’s history, literature, art and archaeology. Museum also has the exhibition “Sarajevo Town Hall once again”, by Nedžad Mulaomerović, which tells the story of the restoration of the Town Hall, which lasted almost two decades.
Entrance fee
There is an entrance fee for the city hall. Ticket prices: – Single ticket 10 KM – Group ticket 10+ (more than 10 participants) 8 KM. For more information check out the city hall website: https://www.vijecnica.ba/en/home
Final thoughts
The city hall of Sarajevo is one of my favorite building for its architecture as well as its historical significance
On our trip to Bosnia, we were fortunate enough to stay with a Bosnian family in Mostar. We stayed with them for 2 nights and heard war stories and had dinner with them at a local restaurant. The host house was located about 10 min uphill from the old stone bridge of the Mostar, the main attraction in the city. Like rest of the country, Mostar was also affected by the war in 1990s and our host family’s house was completely destroyed. The was on Mostar was between the between the Bosnian Croats and Bosniaks (Bosnian Muslims) and 30 year later the town is still divided into Christian and Muslim parts. During the war, the famous bridge that stood for 400 years was destroyed by the Croats and has been since re-built with international help.
The city of Mostar gets its name from the old stone bridge – Star Mosti (literal meaning old bridge). The bridge, a masterpiece of Ottoman Turkish architecture, was commissioned by none other than Suleiman the Magnificent, and designed by Mimar Hayruddin, a student of the famous Mimar Sinan, the architect of Istanbul’s many famous landmarks. Building of the bridge started in 1557 and completed 9 years later. Simple yet elegant, the bridge consists of a single 30-meter-wide and 24-meter-high arc, connecting the steep riverbanks of Neretva River. Two towers protect the entrances to the bridge.
Most people visit Mostar as a day trip from Dubrovnik or Split, Croatia and during the daytime, the old town is filled with day trippers. Since we were staying in Mostar, we were able to visit the bridge both early morning (5.30 AM -thank you Jetlag) and late at night. If you want to take the picture of the bridge without tons of people, early morning is your best bet. The best places to get a good picture is either to cross the bridge and go down to the beach area or from one of the many restaurants around. We found that Urban taste of Orient had really good views as well as good food.
View from Urban taste of Orient
One of the popular things to do at the bridge is to watch/participate in diving from the bridge. Local dive club collects money from the tourist and jump from the bridge into the river. Once in a while, a tourist would join the fun and jump from the bridge. You have to pay 25 euros and practice few times from lower platform before you can jump. We watched at least 3 dives from Urban Cafe while eating lunch.
Divers getting ready to jump
Kriva Cuprija- Crooked bridge of Mostar
Crooked bridge of Mostar
The area near the Old Bridge of Mostar is home to another historic structure known as the Kriva Cuprija, or the Crooked Bridge. This quaint bridge spans the Rabobolja creek, a right-bank tributary of the Neretva River. Although the precise date of its construction and the identity of its builder remain unknown, the bridge embodies a timeless charm.
Similar to the Stari Most, the Kriva Cuprija is a small stone bridge with a single arch. Its arch forms a perfect semicircle, measuring 8.56m in width and 4.15m in height. The frontage and vault consist of regular stone cubes arranged in horizontal layers along the vault. The space between the vault, frontal walls, and footpath is filled with cracked stone, while the bridge footpath and surrounding roads are adorned with cobblestones, mirroring the town’s main thoroughfares. Stone steps on either side of the bridge allow access from the lower terrain.
Tragically, the floods of December 2000 ravaged this iconic structure, highlighting the vulnerability of historic landmarks to natural disasters. The bridge was rebuilt with support from UNESCO.
Old Bazar Kujundžiluk and Coppersmiths of Mostar
The Old Bazaar Kujundziluk has a rich history, serving customers since the 16th century. Located in the oldest part of Mostar, it offers charming, cobbled streets for visitors to explore. The area is renowned for its vibrant sights, lively sounds, and historic buildings, providing an authentic and captivating experience. The colorful old buildings, tinted in shades of red, blue, green, and yellow, tell stories of Mostar’s past. If you want to buy any copper souvenirs this is the place to buy it.
Pro tip- According to our guide, listen to the “Chink” ” Chink” noise of the copper smith working in the shop to know that you are buying an authentic, handmade item not mass-produced cheap knockoff. We found a shop in the courtyard of Koski Mehmed Pasha Mosque where the owner was working with his tools and had some really cool stuff.
Coppersmith working on his craft
Koski Mehmed Pasha Mosque
Constructed in the 17th century during the Ottoman era, the Koski Mehmed Pasha Mosque stands as a masterpiece of the esteemed Ottoman architect, Adžem Esir Ali. It is a highlight of Mostar for two main reasons: its significant historical importance and cultural symbolism, and the unique chance it offers visitors to ascend the minaret for breathtaking panoramic views of the city, encompassing the Stari Most and the charming old town.
As a functioning place of worship, the mosque welcomes visitors outside the designated prayer times. An entrance fee of €7 is applicable.
Catholic Church and the Franciscan Monastery
The Mostar Peace Bell Tower (Mostarski Zvonik Mira) is one of the first landmarks of Mostar we noticed as it dominates the landscape of Mostar. The bell tower of the church is the highest construction in the city, boosting 107m of height and you take an elevator will to more than halfway up, to 45 meters of the 75-meter-high viewing area, providing a panoramic 360-degree view. You can walk up the remaining 30 meters.
The Fortica Fortress and skywalk
Skywalk in Fortica Park is a new attraction in Mostar with a 35-meter-long transparent walkway with panoramic views of Mostar. It is located on Fortica hills which have ruins of medieval fortress that you can explore. Fortica park also has the longest zipline in Bosnia but unfortunately the day we were there, it was too windy to operate. You will also see the “I love Mostar” sign here.
Church of Holy Trinity
The Church of the Holy Trinity, often referred to simply as the Church of Mostar, stood as a symbol of religious and cultural significance in the region. Its architectural grandeur and historical importance made it a focal point for both the Orthodox community and the broader local population. With its roots reaching back to the Ottoman Empire and the patronage of Sultan Abdulaziz, the church’s heritage intertwined with the complex tapestry of the Balkans’ history. The turbulent times of the Bosnian War in the 1990s brought significant upheaval to the region, leading to extensive destruction of cultural and religious landmarks, including the Church of the Holy Trinity.
The commitment to restoring the Cathedral of the Holy Trinity began in 2010, offering hope for the future of Mostar and its people. Three anonymous friends donated three large clocks to be placed on the church tower’s three sides, each featuring different numerals – Arabic, Roman, and Slavic – symbolizing harmony among the city’s faiths. As the cathedral’s restoration neared completion, adherents of three faiths – a Muslim Bosnian, a Catholic Croat, and an Orthodox Serb – demonstrated the city’s continued interfaith tolerance.
Karađoz Bey Mosque
The historical significance of this charming 16th-century mosque cannot be overstated. Steeped in the rich cultural tapestry of Mostar, it not only offers visitors a stunning viewpoint of the city from its minaret but also serves as a testament to the enduring legacy of its founder, Karađoz Bey.
The ties to the region’s past are palpable, as Karađoz Bey, the mosque’s founder, was the brother of a former Herzegovina governor. Despite having endured substantial damage during World War II, the mosque stands as a resilient symbol of architectural and historical preservation. In fact, the well-preserved structure, coupled with the inviting portico that provides shade and seating for visitors, makes it a compelling stop for those embarking on a leisurely exploration of Mostar.
Adding to its allure is the presence of the oldest Muslim cemetery in Mostar, situated behind the mosque. This sacred space exudes an air of reverence and tranquility, offering visitors the opportunity to reflect on the passage of time and the enduring traditions of the local community.
For those considering a visit, it’s worth noting that there is an entrance fee of approximately 5 Bosnian marks, with an additional fee for accessing the minaret’s viewpoint.
Overall, the 16th-century mosque and its surroundings encapsulate the essence of Mostar’s historical and cultural heritage, inviting visitors to partake in an enriching journey through time and tradition.
Mostar and surrounding area are a must visit for anyone visiting Balkans. Rich with history and nature, as well as amazing cuisine, Mostar and entire Bosnia and Herzegovina exceeded my expectations and has become one of my favorite countries to visit
Kravica Waterfall located on the Trebižat River around 40 kilometers from Mostar and about three kilometers from the town of Ljubuški in Herzegovina. This is another great stop on the way to Croatia from Bosnia or as day trip from Mostar, Dubrovnik or Split. We stopped here on our way to Split and Mostar and spent couple of hours enjoying the beautiful waterfalls and swimming in the crystal-clear waters. The waterfall at the top has the shape of a semicircle about 120 meters wide, and is composed of travertine.
The trail to Kravica Waterfalls is relatively short and accessible. It’s about a 10-15 minute walk from the parking area to the falls. The path is well-marked and mostly downhill, making it an easy and enjoyable hike
On the way to the waterfalls
Opening times and entrance fee
The Kravica Nature Park is open every day from 7 am to 10 pm in the summer months and from 7 am to 7 pm in the winter months. The park offers visitors a range of facilities, including parking, train, toilets, changing rooms, restaurants, and more. Swimming and sunbathing are also popular activities here, as well as renting a boat. There are also souvenir shops on site for those looking to take home a little piece of Kravica.
The price of entry to the Kravica site is divided into three categories, namely: adults, groups of students from 7 to 18 years of age and children up to 7 years of age. The price of one entrance ticket for an adult is 20 KM and for students from 7 to 18 years of age is 10 KM and children up to the age of 7 are entitled to free
Kravica Nature Park Train Ride
Kravica Nature Park has its own mini train that takes visitors on a tour of the park. The train ride is a great way to see all that the Nature Park has to offer, and it’s perfect for those who don’t want to walk. The train ride lasts about 5 minutes and makes stops at several points in the park, including the waterfall itself. A train ride is a great option for those with children, as it’s a fun way for them to explore the park.
Tabak Museum and Restaurant
After spending a few hours at the Kravica waterfalls, we decided to stop at the Tabak Museum and Restaurant for lunch. The restaurant is located about a 10-minute drive from the waterfalls in Ljubuški, at 18 Fra. Nikola Ivanković Street, in the Heart of Herzegovina. The food at this place was amazing with local dishes for both meat eaters as well as vegetarians.
The added attraction of this place is that it serves both a restaurant and a museum, providing guests with an opportunity to indulge in a diverse menu while immersing themselves in the rich history of the region. Visitors can enjoy a dining experience that showcases local flavors, making it a perfect spot for those looking to savor authentic cuisine. The museum aspect adds an educational element, allowing patrons to learn more about the local heritage and traditions. The Tabak Museum and Restaurant is a delightful destination for tourists seeking both good food and a glimpse into the cultural tapestry of Ljubuški.
The restaurant and museum is located in the last tobacco factory in Herzegovina where you can see the world history of tobacco including photos of world-famous smokers, tobacco advertising, cuban cigars history, the influence of Austria-Hungary on the areas, information about tobacco factories, cigarette and tobacco packaging, smoking accessories including match books, as well as numerous literatures on the topic of tobacco. Tobacco users today can see all possible cigarettes and matches from this area in one place. From “Opatija” to “Croatia”f From “Drina” to “Vardar”, later the banned “Filter 170”, whose packaging most closely resembled “Marlboro”, to the partisan “Zeta” of the “Boris Kidrič” Tobacco Plant from Gjilan, then “Benston”, “Lord”, “Ibar”, “Drava”… and finally domestic products “Ljubuški, Look and Blend”. It is a fascinating place that also serves great food. Everyone in our group really enjoyed this place.
Istanbul is one of my favorite cities for a stopover and it is easy to do 1-2 day stop over through Turkish airlines Istanbul stopover program. We have utilized this program by Turkish airlines twice, once in April 2023 on our way to Egypt and again in June 2024, on our way to Bosnia. You can check this blog post for more details on how to do a layover in Istanbul. On both visits, we stopped at Hagia Sophia, a place that fascinated me since I read about it in Wonders of the World. In 2023, we were able to go to the ground floor of Hagia Sophia while 2024, ground floor was only for praying Turkish nationals/Muslims while 2nd floor is open to all.
Consecrated to Holy Wisdom of God (Sophia) by Emperor Justinian in 537, Hagia Sophia was largest church in the world at that time. The emperor’s dream was to build a church that surpassed Temple of Jerusalem in splendor. Before being rebuilt in 537, Hagia Sophia has been rebuilt several times due to fire damage. The original church at this site was built by Constantine I in 325, on the foundation of a pagan temple and it was damaged in fires in 404, and again in 415. After being rebuilt by Justinian in 537, Hagia Sophia stood as a monument for Byzantine era engineering and ingenuity and has stood the test of time even though there have been some damages due to earthquake. The building now standing is the 6th century edifice with some modifications added due to the political and religious transformation that Istanbul/Constantinople underwent.
After the Turkish conquest of Constantinople in 1453, Mehmed II had it repurposed as a mosque, with the addition of a wooden minaret (tower used for the summons to prayer), a great chandelier, a mihrab (niche indicating the direction of Mecca), and a minbar (pulpit). Hagia Sophia served as mosque until 1934, when it was converted to a museum by the first president of Turkey, Mustafa Kemal Atatürk. However, in 2020, it was reclaimed back as a mosque and now serves as functional mosque again.
Mosaics of Hagia Sophia
Hagia Sophia, with its awe-inspiring architectural design, has captured the imagination of visitors for centuries. Beyond its magnificent exterior, the interior of this iconic structure is adorned with a breathtaking array of artistic masterpieces. The intricate gold-plated, silver-plated, glass, terracotta, and colored stone mosaics add a layer of exquisite detail, each telling a unique story. Notably, the original ceiling mosaics dating back to the 6th century are adorned with intricate floral and geometric motifs, offering a glimpse into the rich historical tapestry of this remarkable edifice.
Dome of Hagia Sophia
Iconoclasm and Mosaics of Hagia Sophia: Iconoclasm, a period marked by the destruction of religious images and artifacts, had a significant impact on the mosaics of Hagia Sophia. During the period of Leo III and following byzantine kings from 746 to 827, all the pictorial depictions of Christ and the saints were removed and replaced with simple motifs. The best example of the iconoclast movement can be found in another church in Istanbul Hagia Irene -within the walls of Topkapi palace. The apse of Hagia Irene is decorated with a simple cross which iconoclast found acceptable.
Simple cross of Hagia Irene-Iconoclast image
The transition from plant-based and geometric mosaics to figured mosaics reflects the changing religious and cultural landscape during tumultuous time. Despite the challenges posed by the Iconoclast period, the tradition of mosaic art continued to evolve, yielding a rich tapestry of artistic expression that spans several centuries. The mosaics from the 9th to 13th centuries, alongside those from the 6th century, provide a captivating glimpse into the history and artistic prowess of Hagia Sophia, showcasing the enduring legacy of mosaic craftsmanship in this iconic structure. The Virgin and Child mosaic that can be seen in the apse of Hagia Sophia was made after the Iconophiles came back to power in 847.
Apse mosaic: Virgin and Child
With its stunning golden background and intricate details, the mosaic of the Virgin and Child holds a significant place in the rich tapestry of Byzantine art within the walls of the Hagia Sophia. Situated in a quarter-dome on the eastern side, occupying the space that once was the church’s apse, this mosaic stands as a testament to the artistic and spiritual significance attributed to it. It is widely believed that the mosaic visible today is a reconstruction of an earlier work, believed to have been dismantled by iconoclasts. The origins of this masterpiece can be traced back to the ninth century, during the reign of the emperors Michael III and Basil I, showcasing the enduring legacy of Byzantine art and culture. Furthermore, the mosaic underwent extensive restoration during the 14th century, following the substantial damage inflicted by earthquakes, marking a testament to the resilience and commitment to preserving this invaluable cultural heritage. Initially, the Virgin Mary was flanked by depictions of the archangels Gabriel and Michael within majestic arches, yet today only Gabriel remains, adding an air of mystery and intrigue to this cherished artwork.
Soon after Constantinople was sacked by Sultan Mehmed II’s Ottoman forces in 1453, the Hagia Sophia was turned into a mosque, symbolizing the shift in power and religious influences in the region. The conversion of the Hagia Sophia into a mosque led to significant structural and decorative changes, including the plastering over of Christian mosaics and frescoes during the reign of Sultan Suleiman I in the next century. The transformation of the Hagia Sophia continued over the centuries, with notable renovations such as the installation of an ornate mihrab, or niche pointing towards Mecca, as part of a major renovation of the mosque by the Swiss-Italian architect brothers Gaspare and Giuseppe Fossati in 1847-49. This architectural addition now stands below the depiction of the Virgin and Child, creating a juxtaposition of Islamic and Christian elements within the revered space. Despite the alterations to the original artwork, the enduring historical and cultural significance of the Hagia Sophia remained evident. The preservation and restoration efforts of American archaeologist Thomas Whittemore from 1935 to 1939 brought to light the hidden beauty of the mosaics, contributing to a renewed appreciation of the site’s artistic and historical value. Whittemore’s access to the Hagia Sophia was facilitated by his friendship with the first president of the Turkish Republic, Mustafa Atatürk, who played a pivotal role in the secularization of the country and the transformation of the Hagia Sophia into a museum, thereby shaping its identity as a symbol of cultural pluralism and historical continuity.
Both in April 2023, and June of 2024, we couldn’t see the Virgin Mary and the archangel Gabriel mosaic as it is located in the direction Muslims face while praying, or Qiblah and is covered with curtains during prayer time. We were able to get a peak of it from the upper gallery when we were there in June of 2024. The intricate detail of the mosaic, depicting biblical scenes and figures, is truly remarkable. In the mosaic, Mary is enthroned, and she puts her right hand on shoulder of the Child Christ who is seated in her lap. Her left hand holds a handkerchief, which is on Christ’s knee. There is a decorated inscription which is mostly erased around them, which says: “The images which impostors cast down here pious emperors have again set up’’.
Mosaic Of Emperor Leo VI
The mosaic of Emperor Leo VI, also known as Leo the Wise, is a breathtaking masterpiece located above the imperial gate in Hagia Sophia, serving as a vivid testament to the rich history and cultural significance of the Byzantine Empire. We saw this remarkable artwork during our visit in April 2023, when non-praying tourists were allowed access to the main floor of the mosque, allowing us to marvel at the intricate details and symbolism within the mosaic.
Emperor Leo VI’s reign over the Byzantine Empire, spanning from 886 to 912, was marked by both political prowess and personal controversy. His marriages sparked scandal and condemnation within Byzantium, as they deviated from established tradition, leading to dispute and disapproval from certain church leaders. The mosaic encapsulates these tumultuous aspects of Leo’s life, offering a visual narrative of the challenges he encountered in gaining recognition for his multiple marriages from the church.
Within the stunning mosaic, you can see the portrayal of Emperor Leo VI engaged in prayer to Jesus, a poignant representation of the emperor’s reverence and his quest for divine guidance amidst the complexities of his reign. The script held by Jesus in the mosaic reads “Peace be upon you. I am the light of the world,” serves as a powerful testament to the spiritual themes woven into the artwork, echoing the enduring significance of faith and divine illumination in the life and reign of Emperor Leo VI.
Mosaic of Emperors Justinian and Constantine
The mosaic located over the South door in the vestibule holds significant historical and artistic value, dating back to the 10th century. It is believed to have been created to commemorate the Russians’ retreat from Constantinople in 971 or the defeat of the Bulgars by Basil in 1018. The rich imagery of the mosaic features iconic figures such as Justinian, Christ, Mary, and Constantine, providing a vivid portrayal of historical and religious significance.
Mary is depicted seated, holding Child Christ and a handkerchief, draped in a maphorion with a hood, while “The Mother of God’’ monograms surround them, adding a layer of sacred symbolism to the mosaic. Interestingly, Child Christ is shown making a blessing gesture with a larger hand, symbolizing divine authority and grace. The portrayal of the two most famous Byzantine emperors, Justinian and Constantine, adds an intriguing political and cultural dimension to the artwork.
Emperor Justinian is depicted on the left side presenting his architectural masterpiece, the Hagia Sophia, to the Virgin and Child, while Emperor Constantine appears on the right, presenting his own masterpiece, Constantinople, to the holy family. The attention to detail in the depiction of the emperors’ attire is remarkable, from their gold embellished crowns with pearls and emeralds to their imperial clothes and leather shoes—all lavishly adorned.
Justinian’s portrayal exhibits signs of age, with wrinkles on his face, and is accompanied by the inscription: ‘’Justinian, Emperor of Illustrious Memory’’. In contrast, Constantine appears youthful and emotive, with an inscription around him declaring: ‘’Constantine, the great Emperor amongst the saints’’. This detailed portrayal of the emperors not only adds historical context but also captures the essence of their individual reigns and contributions to Byzantine history and culture.
Deesis Mosaic of Christ
The Deesis Mosaic of Christ is situated in the south gallery on the upper floor of Hagia Sophia. Dating back to the 13th century, this mosaic is considered one of the finest examples of Byzantine art, portraying the Judgment Day, a popular theme in Byzantine religious art. It exemplifies the flourishing of the arts and a growing interest in naturalism in the latter centuries of the Byzantine Empire. Emperor Michael VIII Palaiologos, credited with reclaiming the Byzantine capital, is likely responsible for the installation of this monumental new mosaic, possibly as part of a larger restoration project in Hagia Sophia. The Deesis, a traditional representation of the Virgin Mary and St. John the Baptist imploring Christ for the salvation of mankind, holds significant importance in Byzantine art as a pioneer of the Renaissance period, characterized by its soft tones, intense humanity, and emotional realism in the figures’ faces. At the center of the Deesis Mosaic is Christ Pantocrator, flanked by the Virgin Mary on the left and John the Baptist on the right, beseeching Jesus for mercy for the people on the Day of Judgment. The vivid colors and the emotive expressions on the characters’ faces contribute to the mosaic’s success, leading the Deesis in Hagia Sophia to be considered the revival of Byzantine mosaic art. This monumental mosaic portrays Christ, the Virgin Mary, and John the Baptist in a scale that reflects their significance in Byzantine culture, with Christ at the center bearing the Greek abbreviation “IC XC”, the Virgin Mary to his right labeled “MP ΘY”, and John on his left as “Saint John the Forerunner,” each symbolizing the Son of God, the Mother of God, and the prophet who prepared the way for Christ’s ministry.
Emperor Constantine IX and Empress Zoe Mosaic
Emperor Constantine IX and Empress Zoe Mosaic is one of the most striking mosaics in the south gallery. This remarkable artwork depicts the intertwining stories of Byzantine emperor Constantine IX Monomachos and Empress Zoe. Zoe, being the only heir after her father’s death, had a significant role in determining the emperor by virtue of her marriage. Her marital history, which includes the mysterious deaths of her first two husbands and her subsequent marriage to Constantine Monomachus, sparked public controversy, as he brought his mistress Maria Skleraina to the palace. The mosaic is believed to have been created in honor of Zoe’s first or second marriage, with the man’s face being later altered. Although not immediately evident in photographs, close inspection of the mosaic reveals the damage around the man’s face and the narrowing of the longer family name “Monomachos” to fit the frame. Inscriptions on the mosaic emphasize Zoe’s piety and the family’s contributions to the church. Discovered in 1934 by the Byzantine Institute, The Zoe Mosaic offers valuable insight into the life of Empress Zoe. The mosaic’s portrayal of Zoe, regardless of her actual age, conveys a sense of piety and generosity, as depicted by her holding an inscribed scroll signifying contributions to the church. The inscription around her reads: ‘’Zoe, the most pious Augusta’’. The Emperor’s face in the mosaic is that of her third husband, Constantine XI, depicted wearing a crown with hanging pearls and holding a purse, known as a pokombion. The mosaic also features a larger figure of Christ, dressed in a chiton, signifying benediction with his right hand while holding an ornamented Holy Book with his left hand.
Emperor John Komnenos II and Irene Mosaic
Situated at the southern endpoint of the historical site, the magnificent mosaic panel dates back to the 13th century, serving as a timeless testament to the art and heritage of the era. This remarkable piece is reminiscent of the Zoe Panel in its portrayal of the “imperial offering to Mary and Christ”, capturing the attention of visitors with its intricate details and symbolism. The Virgin Mary, a central figure in the composition, is depicted in a manner that emphasizes her humility, portrayed smaller than the Emperor and Empress. Her tender expression and the endearing depiction of Christ the Child seated on her lap, making a benediction with his right hand and holding a roll in his left, evoke a sense of reverence and devotion. The artistic rendition showcases Mary accompanied by the monograms of “Mother of God” (MP OV) in a humanistic style, while Christ is adorned with a cruciform nimbus, adding to the spiritual significance of the scene.
The Empress Eirene, a figure of regal grace and benevolence, is portrayed with distinctive physiognomy, characterized by her blonde hair and attire befitting her lofty status. Holding a scroll of parchment, symbolizing a noble donation to the Great Church, she exudes an aura of generosity and piety. The intricate details of her royal red garment, adorned with jewelry and gold, along with her majestic imperial crown and pear-shaped earrings, reflect the opulence of the imperial court. The accompanying inscription “Eirene, the most pious Augusta” further emphasizes her devout nature and esteemed position. Similarly, John II Komnenos, the illustrious son of Alexios Komnenos, is depicted with utmost reverence and grandeur as he presents a money purse to Mary and Christ. His royal attire, adorned with jewels, and the distinguished cap-shaped crown known as “camelaucum” signify his noble lineage and authority. The accompanying inscription eloquently describes him as “John in Christ the God, faithful king born in the purple, Autocrat of Romans, the Komnenos”, highlighting his significant role in the imperial heritage. To the right of Empress Eirene and Emperor Komnenos, a panel is allocated to their son, Alexios, representing a poignant portrayal of the young prince. The mosaic captures Alexios at approximately 17 years of age, immortalizing his presence in a moment of youth and regal poise. However, the somber undertones of the depiction become evident, as the selected tesserae in the mosaic reflect a melancholic tone, foreshadowing the untimely demise of the young prince. The panel, believed to be from a later period than that of his parents, showcases distinct artistic styles, further enriching the historical narrative and artistic evolution of the era.
Other significant things to see at Hagia Sophia
Calligraphy Roundells
After the Ottomans conquered Constantinople and transformed Hagia Sophia into an Imperial Mosque, the decorations inside Hagia Sophia changed to calligraphic representations of god’s name, rather than literal depictions of the human figure. In the Islamic tradition, only Allah has the power to create life, and so they did not create artistic depictions of the human form. In the Images below, calligraphy can be seen used as grand decorations in the interior of Hagia Sophia. The calligraphic panels in Hagia Sophia are the works of master calligraphers, such as Kazasker Mustafa İzzet Efendi. His work in the dome inscriptions is not just calligraphy; it’s poetry in motion, a fluid dance of script that speaks volumes about the artistic and spiritual ethos of the Ottoman era.
Sultan’s chamber
Situated to the left of the mihrab, Sultan’s lodge is where the Sultan would perform his prayers. Nobody is sure who built it or when it was built, but historians speculate that its construction may have been commissioned by a prominent ruler of the time. The architectural details of the lodge, including the intricate carvings and ornate decorations, suggest a significant level of craftsmanship and attention to detail.
Omphalion
In 1935, Mustafa Kemal Atatürk turned Hagia Sophia into a museum and had the carpets removed to reveal the marble floors, allowing visitors to see the Omphalion, the spot where Byzantine emperors were coronated. Most of the floor is again covered by carpet but you can see part of the marble floor near the mihrab
Pocitelj, a small village in the Herzegovina region of Bosnia and Herzegovina, is famous for its well-preserved Ottoman-era architecture and UNESCO World Heritage List status. It’s about 30 kilometers south of Mostar, and the easiest way to reach it is by car via the E73 highway.
Pocitelj has a history of over 600 years and is an important cultural and historical site in Bosnia and Herzegovina. In the 16th century, the village came under Ottoman rule, leading to the construction of buildings such as the Hadzi-Alija mosque, the Sahat-kula (clock tower), and the Gavrankapetanovic-Kuca (Gavrankapetanovic house) which represent typical ottoman styled architecture.
Main landmarks of Pocitelj
Hadzi-Alija Mosque was built in 1563, is considered to be one of the oldest mosques in Bosnia and Herzegovina. The mosque’s distinctive stone walls and minaret are typical of Ottoman-era architecture. We didn’t go inside the mosque but according to our guide, pre-covid, people were allowed inside and hopefully they will open it to public soon.
Sahat-kula (Clock Tower), built in the 17th century, is an iconic landmark in Pocitelj. Standing at over 20 meters tall, this stone tower served as a way for villagers to tell time. Despite the missing clock face, visitors can still climb to the top to enjoy stunning views of the surrounding countryside. Unfortunately, the clock face was melted for its metal during the war time.
Gavrankapetanovic-Kuca is a prime model of Ottoman-era residential architecture from the 17th century. It boasts traditional stone walls, a red-tile roof, and well-preserved interior showcasing original furniture and decor used by the family.
Citadel or the fortress – The stone walls of the fortress are intact, and you can climb to the top to get an amazing view of the valley and surrounding areas
Houses -There are still about 20 families that live in the village and call it home. We stopped by one such home that sold home grown figs, pomegranate juice, honey etc. Just walking around village gives you fascinating glimpse ottoman era
Final thoughts:
Village of Počitelj is a great stopping point on your way from Dubrovnik to Mostar or as a day trip from Mostar before heading to Kravica waterfalls. You can spend 1-2 hours roaming around the village.
Konjic is the town that connects Herzegovina with Bosnia and our guide jokingly said that Konjic is the “&” in Bosnia & Herzegovina. We visited Konjic on our Bosnia trip and did white water rafting in the Neretva River. Konjic like other cities in Bosnia, blends history, and nature especially popular for white water rafting and in fact when we were inn Konjic, they were holding the European rafting championships on the river.
Built in 1682, the Old Bridge in Konjic is one of the most beautiful bridges from the Ottoman period in Bosnia and Herzegovina. The bridge, made of stone and consisting of six arches, is considered the point where Herzegovina merges with Bosnia. Alongside Mostar’s Old Bridge, Trebinje’s Arslanagića Bridge, and the Mehmed-paša Sokolović Bridge in Višegrad, the Old Bridge in Konjic is a significant cultural and historical monument of the country, declared a national monument of Bosnia and Herzegovina. Unfortunately, the original Old Stone Bridge was demolished on March 3, 1945, during the withdrawal of the German army, and a wooden structure stood in its place for a long time, serving as a crossing over the Neretva River. In 1962, the bridge was reconstructed with a concrete structure, restoring it to its original state. The renovated bridge was reopened on June 16, 2009, with the assistance of the Government of the Republic of Turkey.
Boracko lake
Located about 20 kilometres from Konjic, Boračko Lake is a glacial lake that lies at the base of Mount Prenj. We stopped here on the way to our white water rafting start point but I would definitely love to go back and explore this lake more. There are some bed and breakfast places near the lake and it is supposedly really beautiful in fall season. For more on this lake, check out this blog
White water rafting on Neretva River
Rafting on the Neretva River is a popular activity in Konjic, and we did ours through Visit Konjic rafting company. There are several providers, and they all seem to follow the same route. When we did our rafting in mid-June, 2024, we were on the only ones on the entire 22 km path, but our guide informed us that during peak season of July and August, there might be as many as 100 rafts on the water. We enjoyed having this amazing canyon to ourselves and felt like the scenery is right out of middle earth with lush green tress, waterfalls and beautiful canyons. During June, the rapids were level II and III and very manageable.
The white rafting take place in 26 kilometers long, the Rakitnica canyon that separates the Bjelašnica and Visočica mountains and connects Bosnia and Herzegovina and is one of the deepest canyons in Europe. Most rafting tours start from village of Glavatičevo and end near the bridge of Konjic.
A typical itinerary for white water rafting looks like below and since we did this during off season, we started around 11 AM.
Arrival to Rafting Base Camp – Once we reached the base camp, we were given wet suits and changed into water shoes. After the safety briefing, off we went to the starting point in a minivan.
Departure towards the rafting start location in Glavaticevo -It takes about and hour to reach the starting point at village of Glavatičevo. The drive is beautiful and goes through the beautiful mountains. On the way to the village, we stopped at the Boracko Lake lookout point for photos.
Rafting start at – 12:00 After ariving to start point in Glavaticevo,we got in the rafts and started our descent towards Rakitnica Canyon where we did a 30 min stop for some snacks and swim.
Rakitnica Canyon Swim Stop -The first leg of the journey ended when we reached to the point where Rakitnica tributary river meets Neretva. This place is beautiful and we appreciated the crystal-clear waters and surrounding mountains.
Second leg of the Journey – 14:30 After a nice relaxing swim stop, we started on our second leg and arrived back at the base camp around 3.30PM. After a warm shower and a change of clothes, we had traditional Bosnian lunch made by the hosts.
Starting pointRakitnica river joining Nerevta river Waterfall in the canyon
Tito’s bunker on Zlatar mountain
Officially named the “Armijska Ratna Komanda” (ARK D-o), Tito’s bunker was built between 1953 and 1979. It served as an atomic shelter to protect the military command and 350 members of President Tito’s government in the event of a nuclear attack during the Cold War. It is now a museum and visit it when you are in Konjic
Final Thoughts
Konjic is a beautiful place and has lots to do. We did a day trip from Sarajevo, but you can definitely spend couple of days here to truly appreciate all Konjic has to offer.
The village of Blagaj na buni is located about 10 km (6 miles) from Mostar that could be reached by bus or car. The main attraction of the village is the Tekke or Tekkja – a place of spiritual retreat and reflection for Dervish monks. The unique feature of this Tekke is that it is built on a solid rocky soil at the right side of the source of the Buna River. A very high cliff stretches above the Tekija (240 meters high). On top of the cliff, you can see the remains of Stjepan Vukcic-Kosaca’s fort-town from the Middle Ages. The Buna River that flows adjacent to the monastery emerges from under the massive Karst stone formation after traveling over 19 kms underground.
Spring of Buna River
Blagaj Tekke the dervish retreat
The primary purpose of the structure was to serve as a dervish Zikr praise-chanting (praising God and His names) venue and a retreat, and it is still active religious complex with Zikir praise chanting happening 3 times a week. The tekke was built around 1520 and it features elements of both Ottoman architecture and Mediterranean style. The dervishes follow a mystical strand of Islam in which the peaceful contemplation of nature plays a part, hence the Tekke’s idyllic positioning next to the river.
You can go inside the building by paying 10 marks and there are several different rooms including a kitchen, guest house, hammam, a room for praying, tombs, and a courtyard. There are some interesting features including the perforated dome in the hammam and beautiful wooden ceiling of semahana, or the room used to perform zikr (religious chanting).
Best place to take photos of the Tekke
To get the iconic reflection of the Tekke in the water, you need to get the other side of the river. Cross-over the first bridge and walk behind the restaurants until you see a set of stairs that lead to the viewpoint.
Stairs leading to other side of the river to get the iconic photos
Entrance fee
There is an entrance fee to go inside the Tekke- It is 10 marks/ 4-5 euros. Women are expected to cover their head and arms as well as wear long skirts. These are provided free of cost at the entrance.
Other things to do around Blagaj
There are several restaurants around Blagaj and you can get traditional food and drinks and enjoy the peaceful surroundings.
Jablanica: Where Natural Beauty Meets Historyand Gastronomy
Halfway between the cities of Sarajevo and Mostar is the town of Jablanica. It is located in the beautiful Neretva River valley and is known for its natural beauty, cultural heritage, and roasted lamb. We stopped here on our way to Mostar after whitewater rafting in Konjic, another charming little town about 20 km away.
Jablanica has several notable attractions, including the picturesque man-made Jablanica Lake, perfect for boating and fishing, as well as the pristine Neretva River, which offers rafting and kayaking. The high peaks of Mt. Prenj and Mt. Čvrsnica are known for their challenging hiking trails, making it a paradise for nature lovers. Along with incredible nature, Jablanica steeped in history specially played key role in second world war.
Jablanica Bridge- A thrice destroyed bridge
Jablanica Bridge
Jablanica Bridge holds a significant place in history, having witnessed destruction and restoration multiple times. The first instance was a clever ruse, orchestrated to outwit Nazi forces during World War II. Subsequently, the bridge fell victim to an actual attack, succumbing to the ravages of warfare. Remarkably, its story continued to unfold even after the war, as it was reconstructed for the filming of “The Battle of Neretva,” only to be meticulously destroyed once again as part of the movie production. Each of these events contributed to the bridge’s enduring legacy, perpetuating its role as a symbol of resilience and historical significance.
Visitors can explore remnants of the conflict and visit the Museum of Battle for the Wounded, offering an immersive experience into the town’s historical significance and the bravery of those who fought for freedom.
The Battle of Neretva movie and Pablo Picaso’s poster
The movie “Battle of the Neretva” depicts the true story of the Yugoslav partisans fighting against the Nazi invaders during World War II. In a powerful gesture, Picasso created the poster for this movie and incorporated elements from his artwork “The Rape of the Sabine Women” into the film’s poster, symbolizing the battle against oppression. Picasso declined payment for his work, requesting instead a box of the finest Yugoslav wine containing 12 bottles.
Roast lamb on Lamb alley
The Jablanica area is known localy well known for its ‘jagnjetina’, lamb meat made in old tradition of roasting sheep over an open fire brought fame to a series of restaurants on the main road (M17) south of the town. This part of M17 is known as lamb alley. Our friends from Mostar suggested that we should try Restoran Kovacevic Jablanica not only for the lamb but also for the view form the restaurant. We stopped at the restaurant for the view (mostly vegetarians in our group) and it was absolutely beautiful. In most the restaurant on lamb alley you can watch the sheep being roasted on a spike in the traditional way
View from the kovacevic restaurant
Final thoughts
We stopped at Jablanica on our way to Mostar after spending most of the day white water rafting in Konjic but Jablanica definitely needs more time than we spent to truly appreciate all it has to offer. There are a few tour companies that offer specific 1-3 day trips( sich as visitJabalnica to Jablanica and based on what we saw, 2 days in Jablanica might be good to truly appreciate the place
There are over 3000 mosques in Istanbul, the most famous being the Blue Mosque or the Sultanahmet Mosque. The blue mosque gets its name from the interior of the mosque that is lined with more than 20,000 blue colored, handmade ceramic tiles from İznik, which are richly decorated with flowers, trees, and abstract patterns. Above the tiles the walls are painted with various motifs, also in a blue color. However, three are 2 other mosques in Istanbul that also have the blue interior and covered in Iznik tiles– Sokullu Mehmed Pasha Mosque, and Rustem Pasha mosque.
Rustem Pasha mosque- a hidden gem
Rüstem Pasha Mosque, a hidden gem and magnificent work of Mimar Sinan, nestled in the bustling market of Istanbul near Golden horn is a miniature version of the iconic Blue Mosque without the crowds. In fact, when we visited on a Thursday afternoon in June of 2024, there were only 3 other people in the mosque. We had visited blue mosque earlier that afternoon and it was buzzing with 100s of people.
The mosque was designed and built in 1561 by the renowned Ottoman imperial architect Mimar Sinan for Grand Vizier and son-in-Law of Suleiman the magnificent- Rüstem Pasha. The mosque is built in a rectangular shape with semi domes around the main dome that are seated over four elephant feet and columns. Both inside and outside are made of white marble and interior of the mosque is one of the most embellished mosques with 7227 pieces of hand-made Iznik tiles containing 36 tulip motifs and 5 different colors. 850 of these tiles have calligraphy written on them.
Dome of Rustem Pasha MosqueMihrab of Rustem Pasha mosqueDome of Rustem Pasha MosqueElephant columns
Where is Rustem Pasha mosque located
Address: Rüstem Paşa, Hasırcılar Cd. No:62, 34116 Fatih/İstanbul, Türkiye
Rustem Pasha mosque can be challenging to locate but it is close to Spice Bazar and Yeni Camii mosque and located in the Hasırcılar Çarşısı (Strawmat Weavers Market) in the Tahtakale neighborhood of the Fatih district . From Yeni Cami, head toward the Spice Market, turning right up a small road at a large coffee shop. Further down this small street there are set of access stairs on Hasırcılar Caddesi and another on the small street that runs right (north) off Hasırcılar Caddesi towards the Golden Horn. At the top of the stairs, there’s a terrace and the mosque’s colonnaded porch
rustem pasha mosqueEntrance to the mosqueOutside courtyard
RÜSTEM PASHA MOSQUE OPENING HOURS (2024)
Rüstem Pasha Mosque is open daily from 10 am to 6 pm, with closures during prayer times and religious holidays such as Ramadan.
Entrance fee
There is no fee to enter but it is an active mosque and please be mindful of prayer hours
Final thoughts
Rustem Pasha mosque is a magnificent masterpiece of Mimar Sinan and definitely worth a visit and you can appreciate the intricate design of the Iznik tiles without the crowds of the blue mosque
The Bosnian War (1992–95) had a significant impact on the cultural landscape of Bosnia and Herzegovina. As a former Yugoslav republic with a multiethnic population comprising Bosniaks (Bosnian Muslims), Serbs, and Croats, the war sparked bitter fighting among these groups and involvement from the Yugoslav army. The resulting death toll of over 100,000 people, mostly Bosniaks, left emotional scars and deep ethnic and political divides across the region. Despite the suffering, we found Bosnians to be generous and kind people. The war has certainly influenced their perspective on life, as our guide mentioned that many Bosnians prefer to work until they have enough money to live a comfortable life rather than being rich.
During our time in Bosnia, the impact of the war was evident everywhere. The destruction caused by the conflict was unmistakable, particularly with iconic structures like the 427-year-old Mostar stone bridge, which was destroyed during the war and subsequently rebuilt. Additionally, the Sarajevo city hall, once the national library, fell victim to fire in 1992, resulting in the destruction of two million books, articles, and magazines that had reflected the multicultural life of the region under the Ottoman and Austro-Hungarian empires.
Sarajevo roses- Everything but a flower
During the siege of Sarajevo from 1992 to 1995, the city endured relentless bombardment by enemy forces. On average, over 300 shells rained down on the city each day, reaching a devastating peak of 3,777 shells on July 22nd, 1993. When mortar rounds struck concrete surfaces, they left behind distinctive fragmentation patterns resembling flowers, which were later filled with red resin, earning them the name “Sarajevo Roses.” These marks serve as silent memorials people who lost their lives at each location during the siege. Scattered across Sarajevo, these blood-like stains stand as a poignant reminder of the war and the city’s resilience. For more information about the Siege of Sarajevo, you can visit Memories of a War.
Approximately 200 Sarajevo Roses were originally present throughout the city, but due to lack of upkeep and the rebuilding of the city, only about 28 remain. Despite the difficulty of being so close to reminders of death every day, it is important to remember what happened in Sarajevo. You can find one of these roses in front of the Sacred Heart Cathedral, another one close to City Hall, and one near the entrance of the Tunnel of Hope.
Sarajevo Rose at Sacred Heart Cathedral
Mortar holes in Mostar
The battles scars in Mostar are much more visible compared to Sarajevo. Decades after the ending of the war, there are still many empty and abandoned buildings. Ther are many building in the old town Mostar close to the bridge that was riddled with holes from the mortar attached, and visible bomb damage. Near the stone bridge, there is a rock wit inscription that stats Don’t forget 93 referring to the war on the Onescukova street that served as the war frontline.
Stories told by our guides
Most of the guides that we hired were old enough to remember the war and lived through it. One of our guides, Stefan, who spent three days with us in Croatia, told us that he was only two years old when the war happened, but he lost his father during the conflict. Growing up without a fatherly figure to guide him, Stefan got into a lot of trouble with his friends from school. He mentioned that not having a father wasn’t that unusual and he wasn’t treated as anything special, as most of his classmates also had lost their patents in the war.
In Mostar, we stayed in a house owned by friends of friends who fled to Atlanta, US during the war, and the house was completely demolished. The family rebuilt the house, and we were fortunate to stay with them and hear first-hand about their war experiences and how it had completely changed their lives. The host had worked as a hotel manager in Mostar before the war, and the hotel was completely destroyed. He took us to a local restaurant right across from the damaged hotel, which is finally being rebuilt.
“Christmas Eve/Sarajevo 12/24”
Photo: Cellist Vedran Smailovic in the bombed National Library in Sarajevo Credit: Michael Evstafiev/AFP/Getty Images
Vedran Smailovic brought hope to Sarajevo during very difficult time in Bosnian war. In 1992, a group of people waiting to buy bread in a market were hit by mortar shells, resulting in 22 deaths. Vedran Smailovic, a well-known cellist in the city, was deeply affected by this event. The following day, he went to the spot, which was covered in flowers as a tribute, and started playing his cello. He hadn’t planned it, but he did it instinctively, and as people gathered around him, there was a sense of healing. He played there for 22 days, in honor of the 22 who had been killed, performing the same piece, Albinoni’s Adagio in G minor. Despite the presence of snipers on the hills, the cellist continued to play, risking his life. For another two years, he played at various locations in the city, amidst the ruins, dressed in a white shirt and black tailcoat, as if he were on stage in an orchestra. He soon became a symbol of courage for Sarajevo and the world. This story has been immortalized by Trans-Siberian Orchestra’s “Christmas Eve / Sarajevo” – iconic instrumental piece tells the story of Vedran Smailović during Bosnian war. I have this heard this song so many times during Christmas and didn’t realize it based on Vedran until I was visited Sarajevo. If you want to, you can watch the Trans-Siberian song /video here
All these stories are poignant reminders of horrors of war and effect on the cultural fabric of the country and its people. They also show the resiliency of the people and perseverance of hope despite unimaginable horrors.
Peaks to Palaces 