Don’t watch the clock; do what it does. Keep going
Right next to the Gazi Husref-bey mosque in old town Sarajevo, stands a clock tower known as Sahat-Kula that displays time in a unique way, following lunar “a la turca” time which means that time is set according to that day’s sunset, when its hand must be firmly on 12. Without a manual reset, the clock would stop functioning within a week. The times of prayers are also determined according to the Clock Tower, and during Ramadan the Clock is responsible for determining the time of iftar (breaking fast). The clock tower was built in the 16th century by Gazi Hursref Bey, and in 1876, after the original clockface was broken, the current one was installed and has been working since then.
Muvekit (clock keeper)
Since the sunset changes every day depending on the season, the clock must be regulated often, and this is the job for the muvekit or the clock keeper. Current clock keeper is Mensur Zlatar, has a regular job as a jeweler near grand Gazi Husrev-beg mosque and his second job is to keep the clock tower running. Twice a week since 1967, Zlatar has climbs the 76-step tower of Sahat-Kula, to set the time.
Even during the 1990s war in former Yugoslavia, when Sarajevo was under siege for 1425 days and it was dangerous for people to go out as snipers from surrounding hills would shoot any civilian, Zlatar still climbed the steps of Sahat-Kula to set the time every week. He scaled it back to once a week during the war and since then has resumed his twice-weekly climb (This Man Keeps Time on the World’s Last Lunar Clock)
And that’s the heart of wabi-sabi—not the perfect tick of a quartz watch, but the weathered hands of a man who climbs for time. A clock that needs human touch. A ritual that has lasted because it’s flawed, fragile, and yet enduring.
Where modern life seeks precision, Sahat-Kula answers with presence.
We went to Grand Teton as part of our weeklong trip to Yellowstone and Grand Tetons. Check out the weeklong itinerary for Yellowstone and Grand Teton here. Grand Teton National Park should absolutely be on everyone’s list and there is so much to do and spending couple of days in the park is totally worth it. We loved the beautiful scenery with snow covered mountains, alpine lakes, and plenty of wild animals including moose (only sighting of moose in my life). Here are some of the things we did in 2.5 days when we visited.
We stayed at Jackson Lake Lodge and the views from lobby and restaurant were absolutely amazing. The 60-foot floor to ceiling windows in the lobby gives visitors one of the most awe-inspiring views of the famed mountains. We also dined at the Blue Heron restaurant at Jackson Lake Lodge which has an outside patio seating with absolutely best views and delicious huckleberry cocktails. Even if you are not staying in the hotel, I highly recommend visit to the lobby and eating at one of its 3 restaurants. Unlike other national parks, the restaurants at Grand Teton are more upscale and had better variety of food. Mural room restaurant is the upscale version of the 3 and needs reservations while the Pioneer grill is more casual. We liked Blue Heron the best and had dinner couple of nights here.
Huckleberry cocktail with a viewView from the lobby
Signal Mountain viewpoint
Signal Mountain
The Signal Mountain Summit Road climbs 800 ft/242 m to panoramic views of the Teton Range, Jackson Hole, and Jackson Lake. There are two overlooks that provide valley views-East View Overlook, with views of the Jackson Hole Valley below and Jackson Point Overlook where you will see gorgeous views of the Teton Range, including Mt. Moran.
Singal Mountain summit road starts about mile from the Signal Mountain Lodge and has clear signs at the entrance. It is 5-mile narrow winding road that is frequented by bears and mule deer.
Pro tip: Don’t forget to take bug spray. In July, there were tons of mosquitoes and other bugs at the summit.
East view overlook of Signal Mountain
Sunrise at Oxbow bend
There are few spots in Grand Teton that are photographer’s dream for sunrise photos- Oxbow Bend, Schwabacher’s Landing, Mormon row, Snake River overlook, Signal Mountain, willow flats, Jack Tail ponds overlook, Jackson lake dam etc. but we saw the best sunrise at the oxbow bend.
We set out to go to Schwabacher’s Landing for sunrise photos but as we were passing Oxbow bend, we realized that sun was coming up and decided to take phots from Oxbow bend instead which was just off the road and only couple of miles from Jackson Lake lodge. It was one of those sunrises that moves you and fills you with awe.
Jenny Lake Boat ride and hike to Inspiration point
After the spectacular sunrise at Oxbow bend, we decided to hike the Jenny Lake trail. The parking lot at Jenny Lake gets filled very fast and we decided to be at the lake around 7 for the first boat ride. Chek out the timing and opening hours of jenny lake boat ride here. There are several hikes that you can do around Jenny Lake and most popular and family friendly one is taking the boat across Jenny Lake and hiking to Hidden falls and Inspiration point.
Jenny Lake boat dock: Hidden Falls is a 1/2-mile hike from the boat dock on the west side, and Inspiration Point is 1 mile away.
The trail is rocky but well-maintained and closer to falls, the trail climbs gradually. The path goes next to a babbling brook and there are wooden bridges along the way. From Hidden falls to Inspiration point is another mile hike and the path is very rocky and narrow (see the photo below). At times, you might have to stop to let the people from the opposite direction pass. Inspiration point provides beautiful panoramic views of the jenny lake and surrounding mountains
Hidden Falls Narrow path going towards Inspiration pointView from Inspiration point
Snake river rafting
Another fun activities especially if you have little kids is the snake river rafting. Float a beautiful and scenic 10-mile stretch of the river inside Grand Teton National Park with experienced river guides share in-depth knowledge about local flora and fauna and the area’s rich history. We went this trip with Grand Teton Lodge company and they pick up and drop off at Jackson lake lodge. The whole trip took about 5 hours from start to finish.
View of Tetons from Snake river
42 mile scenic loop
Mormon RowSchwabacher’s Landing
The 42-Mile Scenic Loop Drive in Grand Teton National Park is a fantastic way to experience the park’s beauty. We stopped at some of the 24 spots during different activities such as Sunrise at Oxo bend, Sunset at Signal Mountain, Rafting on Snake River.
What to See: There are 24 stops along the route, including iconic spots like Moulton Barns on Mormon Row, Snake River Overlook, Jenny Lake Loop Drive, Signal Mountain, and Schwabacher’s Landing
Scenic Loop Drive: The drive consists of two roads: HWY 191/89/26 (Outer Road) and Teton Park Road (Inner Road). You can start from three entry points:
Moose Junction: Drive north on HWY 191/89/26 from Jackson.
Moran Junction: Accessible from Dubois in the east via Togwotee Pass.
Jackson Lake Junction: If coming from Yellowstone to the north
Best Time to Do the Drive: The scenic loop is beautiful year-round, but summer and fall offer stunning views.
Duration: Depends on the number of stops but plan at least 3-6 hours.
The List of 24 includes:
Moulton Barns on Mormon Row
Blacktail Ponds Overlook
Dornans Village
Glacier View Overlook
Schwabacher’s Landing
Teton Point Overlook
Snake River Overlook
Cunningham Cabin
Elk Ranch Flats Overlook
Oxbow Bend Overlook
Jackson Lake Dam
Catholic Bay
Chapel of the Sacred Heart
Signal Mountain Lodge
Signal Mountain Summit Drive
Potholes Turnout
Mount Moran Turnout
Mountain View Turnout
Cathedral Group Turnout
Jenny Lake Scenic Drive and Overlook
Cascade Canyon Turnout
Teton Point Turnout
Windy Point Turnout
Chapel of Transfiguration & Menor Ferry Historic District
Delta Lake Hike
Delta Lake
Delta lake trail was once a hidden gem but lot more people know about it now and it is less hidden . Delta lake trail is not supported by Grand Teton National park and you will not find it in the suggested hikes (Check out various hikes in Grand Teton here) . Not supported by National Park means the trail is not kept up or maintained by the National Park Service. There are no official trail markers or signs on this trial once you leave the official trail going towards Amphitheater and Suprise Lakes. But no worries… there are plenty of people hiking this trial even at 7AM when we started and unofficial markers such as Cairns keep you on the right path.
All trails describe this hike as “Discover this 7.4-mile out-and-back trail near Moose, Wyoming. Generally considered a challenging route. This is a very popular area for hiking, so you’ll likely encounter other people while exploring. The best times to visit this trail are May through October. You’ll need to leave pups at home — dogs aren’t allowed on this trail”. This was a tough hike for me but the view at the end is amazing and totally worth it. There are several well written blog posts such as this one as well as this one will help you to navigate this tough hike and since it is unmarked trail, you need to where you are going.
Final thoughts
Grand Teton National Park is often overlooked compared to its more famous neighbor Yellowstone, but we enjoyed Tetons more than we thought we would. The food inside the park was better than Yellowstone and scenery is absolutely beautiful. This park is more compact compared to Yellowstone and less busy but offers quite a lot to do and spending at least couple of days in this park is totally worth it.
Right opposite to the City hall in Sarajevo, across the bridge there is a unique Bosnian restaurant named Inat Kuća, or “House of Spite”. More than being just an oddly named restaurant, this place was once a house that belonged to a Bosnian man named Benderija. I decided to check out this place out of pure curiosity and sat outside the patio and drank Rakija and people watched.
Inside the house of Spite restaurant
The restaurant menu also talks about the history of the place and why it is called house of spite. As the story goes, the house was originally located across the river where the current city hall resides. In the late 19th century, Austria-Hungary was transforming Sarajevo into a model colony. As part of this makeover, they began constructing a magnificent city hall. However, an elderly Bosnian man Benderija stood in their way. Despite generous offers, he refused to let them demolish his house. After lengthy negotiations between the old man and the city (with even the Austro-Hungarian Minister of Finances getting involved) until finally, in 1895, he agreed to sell his property for the extravagant price of a sackful of gold ducats, but with one condition: the authorities would have to move his Ottoman-era house, brick by brick, and rebuild it on the other side of the river.
According to our guide, the old man spent every day of the move sitting in the middle of a nearby bridge, smoking cigarettes and watching the workers transport each brick across the river. When the house was finally rebuilt, it was aptly named Inat Kuća, or the House of Spite.
City hall from house of Spite
The food and drink were really good and views are definitely worth it to visit this place.
Location: The canals are situated just south of Mostar, near the M-17 highway. They mark the confluence of the Neretva River with its left tributary, the Buna. We stopped here on our way to Počitelj from Mostar. It is about 12Km from Mostar
What is it: It is natural wonder where narrow channel of the Neretva River merges with the Buna River (Same River that originates from cave at Blagaj) over travertine barriers. Unlike typical confluence of rivers, at this place, the rivers flow next to each other, and merge through a series of waterfalls.
It is best to visit this place in the summer when river water is low, and the canals can be seen in their full glory. During winter months, snow melt creates a high water in the river, and you won’t be able to see the canals and waterfalls in their full glory. The Neretva River is slightly more than three meters wide in that part, and the rivers join in a length of about 300 meters and continue towards Adriatic Sea.
Even though it is more popular now, when we visited Buna canals in mid-June, 2024, we were the only tourists other than a lone bicycle rider that had stopped to take photos. The bridge to the Buna canals runs close to old Ćiro railway, now converted into bike path.
Kayaking and Canoeing- Another claim to glory for Buna canals is that in the eighties, these canals were used for World and European Kayaking championships as these canals provide natural water pathways that are difficult and demanding than anything man could create.
If you are in Mostar or travelling towards Split from Mostar, Buna Canals is definitely a great stop to appreciate the beauty of Bosnia and Herzegovina.
According to National Park Service’s there are 5 types of hydrothermal features in Yellowstone and it is pretty easy to see each one if you spend a day or two in Yellowstone. According to NPS, the five hydrothermal features are differentiated as:
Hot springs: Pools of hydrothermally heated water.
Geysers: Hot springs with constrictions in their plumbing, which causes them to periodically erupt to release the pressure that builds up.
Mudpots: Hot springs that are acidic enough to dissolve the surrounding rock, and typically also lack water in their systems.
Travertine terraces: Hot springs that rise up through limestone, dissolve the calcium carbonate, and deposit the calcite that makes the travertine terraces.
Fumaroles: These hot features, also known as steam vents, lack water in their system, and instead constantly release hot steam.
Saphire pool
Often ignored by most Yellowstone visitors, Biscuit basin and its Saphire pool is worth a visit and one of my top recommendations for must visit places in Yellowstone. The thermal pools in Biscuit basin have the prettiest jewel colors and have pretty names like Black opal pool, Saphire pool etc. The Avoca Spring and shell geyser are worth seeing too.
Beryl Spring
The first thermal feature that we stopped on our way to Midway Geyser basin is the Beryl Spring and it is conveniently located on the side of the road, and you can see the steam coming from it well in advance. This spring is named after Beryl gemstone as the water is blue-green color and is one of hottest thermal features in the park with temperatures reaching up to 196F/91C. The steam you see before reaching the spring comes from the vent sitting behind the spring and it sounds a like roaring jet engine.
Grand Prismatic Spring
This is the most iconic Yellowstone hot springs with its red, orange, green and blue color and is the largest hot spring in the park. There are 2 ways to view this beautiful spot and we did both to appreciate a closer as well as from the overlook around noon where the colors are brighter without too much steam obstructing the view.
At midway geyser basin, you can take the boardwalk to get an up-close look at the Grand Prismatic spring. The colors of the spring are attributed to microbial mats around the edges of the mineral-rich water. The mats produce colors ranging from green to red.
However, if you want to see the Grand Prismatic Spring from the vantage point of its overlook, you will need to access that trail from a parking lot located a mile further down the road on the Grand Loop drive at Trailhead to Grand Prismatic Overlook and Fairy Falls. It is about a mile walk and colors brightest around noon time.
Terrace Spring
This was one of my favorite geothermal ponds that is right next to the grand loop road and has 2 bubbling hot pools and yellow flowers that line pond’s edge. The overall effect of pond with flowers and thermal pools is very unique and eye catching
Dragon’s Mouth Spring
Dragon’s mouth spring is part of the mud volcano area and one of my favorite unique thermal springs in Yellowstone. It is a cavern which looks like a dragon’s mouth and smoke bellows out frequently. The gray colored waters in the cave create a hissing sound that seem to originate from the deep inside the tunnel. Definitely worth stopping for a visit and walking around the boardwalk
Mud Volcano
Artists paint pots
Artists pain pots is one of the easiest and most unique thermal features in Yellowstone with a collection of colorful hot springs and mud pots. The area is called paint pots as the mud pots resemble paint pots due to their palette of earthy colors.
Mudpots are thermal features with limited water supply and the microorganisms growing in the mud pots generate gases which escape through the wet clay mud creating giant bubbles and unusual midair shapes. I was able to capture a giant bubble as it burst from the gasses. The area definitely smells like rotten eggs but the mud pots are fascinating to watch
Yellowstone lake
Covering about 132 square miles with 141 miles of shoreline, it is hard to miss Yellowstone Lake. Lake Lodge in the Yellowstone is located on the shoreline, and it has a large porch with rocking chairs offering the view of Yellowstone Lake. Although it is not a thermal feature, this was one of my favorite spots in Yellowstone. We had dinner at the restaurant on day 2 of our trip and spent some time on the front porch watching elks and having a drink. The main lodge is constructed of logs and is the focal point of this classic and comfortable building and looked like great place to stay.
Waterfalls of Yellowstone
Other than Grand Canyon of Yellowstone which has 2 falls-upper and lower, there are several other waterfalls throughout the park . We pulled over couple of times after seeing the waterfalls on the side of the Grand loop road. 2 of my favorites include Gibbon falls and Tower falls
Gibbon Falls-This is 80ft waterfall right off the grand loop road at the Madison and Norris Junctions with easy access to the parking lot. There is an upper deck where you see most people taking photos, but lower deck has better views and fewer people.
Tower falls-Located in the northeastern part of Yellowstone about 2.2 mile south of Tower-Rosevelt and Canyon village, this fall plunges a stunning 132 feet. The unusual rock columns north of the fall were created by lava flow and forms quite contrasting landscape to the falls
There is nothing so American as our national parks…..The fundamental idea behind the park is that the country belongs to the people, that it is in process of making for the enrichment of lives of all of us.
President Franklin D. Roosevelt
Yellowstone is the first national park in US and is 2.2 million acres spread across 3 states of Idaho, Wyoming, and Montana and has lakes, canyons, rivers, mountains. Apart from being the first national park in US, Yellow stone:
Contains half the world’s active geysers and active hydrothermal features
Yellowstone is one of largest high-elevation lakes in North America
Yellowstone Caldera is the largest super volcano on the continent .
Grand Teton National Park often shadowed by Yellowstone, is only 10 miles (16 km) south of Yellowstone National Park and is connected by John D. Rockefeller Jr. Memorial Parkway. Much quieter than Yellowstone, we found Grand Tetons to be peaceful and hiker’s paradise with lots of easy, difficult, and moderate hikes with breath-taking views.
Download Guide-along app and get Yellowstone and Grand Teton bundle (App is free but you have to pay for the specific park). We used this app for our trip to Banff and it is like having a live guide in your car and will explain lots of things you would otherwise miss
The wifi or cell service is very spotty and unreliable. Download area map in google maps before hand
Staying inside the park saves you lots of travel time but can be expensive. We stayed at Canyon Lodge in Yellow stone (Chose it because of its central location) and Jackson Lake Lodge in Tetons.
Best time to visit is July-August but also busiest. Should months such as June and September are less crowded but check the weather and make sure everything is still open.
The absolute minimum amount of time to see both Yellowstone and Grand Teton is 3 days: 2 in Yellowstone and Grand Teton can be seen in one day. We did 2.5 days in Yellowstone and 2.5 days in Tetons and found it to be perfect amount of time to cover all the highlights.
Our Itinerary
We had booked our trip for the busiest weekend of the year -around the July 4th holiday. As the fate would have it, in 2022, Yellowstone got historical rain and floods that closed park for almost 3 weeks. We weren’t sure that the park will be open by July 4th but it finally opened the last week of June. Because of the floods, even though we were there during the busiest time of the year, we were lucky to have most of the park not so crowded as most people had cancelled their reservations.
Drive to Yellowstone – Stay at the Canyon Lodge (Rental car from Jackson hole airport) Driving time -3-5 hours
Jackson Hole airport is the only airport that is within a national park and you get breathtaking views of Tetons as you land in the airport.
Day 2, Yellowstone full day- Midway Geyser basin and Upper geyser basin
Morning (Start time 8AM)- Drive to Midway Geyser -30-45 min
*Must do-Grand Prismatic Spring-Parking lot is small and gets busy. Early start helps with parking situation.
Drive to Upper geyser basin- Must do-old faithful and Morning glory pool
Morning Glory Pool
We stopped by Beryl geyser (side of the road) driving from Canyon lodge to midway geyser basin.
On our return trip, we stopped at the terrace springs. Both these are on the side of the road and turned out to be some of my favorite spots. More about this here
We took afternoon break and had lunch and nap before venturing out towards Yellowstone Lake for dinner and animal viewing. We saw elks, bears, and lots of bison.
Day 3, Exploring Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone and Mammoth hot springs.
Another early start but the parking lot at the Artist point for Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone was empty when we arrived around 7.30 AM. This spot gets very busy as it is iconic point where lots of people gather to take photos and hence, we started from Artist point and drove back towards the north rim drive and finished off north rim drive (one way road) which conveniently ends at Canyon lodge where we were staying. There is a trail that starts at Canyon Lodge and connects to North rim drive.
These are some of the interesting points of North and South Rims of Grand Canyon and it takes about 3-5 hours if you don’t do any hikes and just drive from point to point off the grand loop road. It is an easy-to-follow road with South rim drive and north rim drive that take you all the interesting points.
North Rim:
Brink of the Lower Falls: Get up close to the Lower Falls
Lookout Point: Another spot to admire the Lower Falls from a different angle.
Red Rock Point: Enjoy panoramic views of the canyon and river.
Grand View: As the name suggests, this viewpoint offers grand vistas of the canyon.
Inspiration Point: Capture stunning photos of the canyon’s rugged beauty.nery.
Brink of the Upper Falls: Witness the Upper Falls, a 109-foot waterfall, from this viewpoint.
South Rim:
Canyon Overlook (Upper Falls View): Marvel at the Upper Falls from the south rim.
Sunset Point: A great spot to enjoy the changing colors during sunset.
Artist Point: Perhaps the most famous viewpoint, offering iconic views of the Lower Falls.
Point Sublime: A less crowded spot with equally impressive vistas.
Like day 2, we were done by 12 PM and decided to go for lunch and break at the canyon lodge before venturing out to Mammoth Hot springs and Lamar valley for the late afternoon/early evening.
Artist point
Day 3 Afternoon- Mammoth hot springs and Lamar valley
We started driving towards Mammoth spring around 3 and stopped to watch a bear eating berries not too far away from Canyon lodge. After spending couple of hours at the Mammoth hot springs, we decided to drive through Lamar valley and stopped over at Tower falls.
Mammoth hot springsMammoth Hot SpringsTower falls
Day 4, Check out of the hotel, Norris basin, Artists paint pots, Midway geyser basin and Grand Tetons- Stay at Jackson Lake Lodge
Later start compared to day 2 and 3. We started at Artist Paint pots and stopped at Noris Basin and Biscuit basin before heading out to Midway geyser basin to see Grand Prismatic spring from the observation point on Mystic falls trial. This is a half mile hike that is better done around noon time as the colors of Grand Prismatic spring will be much vibrant without the fog.
Pro tip- Biscuit basin is often overlooked and less visited but it has some of the best thermal pools with various colors.
Artist Paint PotsMud PotsNorris BasinBiscuit BasinBiscuit BasinGrand Prismatic from Observation Point
Day 4 Afternoon – We drove to Grand Tetons and checked into Jackson Lake Lodge which has the best views of the Tetons and close to everything. Evening we drove to Signal Mountain to take in the views.
Pro-tip- Take bug and mosquito spray.
View from the lobby of Jackson lake LodgeView from Jackson Lake LodgeSignal MountainSignal Mountain
Day 5,Sunrise at Oxbow Bend, Jenny Lake boat ride, Hike to Inspiration Point and Snake River float
Sunrise in Grand Tetons is a specular event and there are several spots to see it. Most famous spot includes Schwabacher’s Landing and Oxbow bend. At Schabacker’s Landing, reflection of the Teton Mountains in the still, flat water of the Snake River is majestic, and we were planning to watch sunrise from here. But as we drove towards the place, we crossed Oxbow bend (It’s about 2 miles from Jackson Lake lodge) and decided to watch the sunrise from here instead. No words can describe what we saw, and we watched one of the most spectacular sunrises.
Sunrise at Ox bow bend Sunrise at Ox bow bendSunrise at Ox bow bendSunrise at Ox bow bendSunrise at Ox bow bend
Jenny Lake Boat ride and hike to Inspiration point– good family hike with a boat ride, waterfall, and some spectacular views. Our one and only Moose spotting was on this trail. Takes about 2-4 hours and very popular hike and parking lot gets full by 8AM. The boat ride is first come first serve and during peak summer runs every 10-15 minutes starting at 7AM. Check out timings and other details at Jenny Lake Shuttle boat service webpage . If you want to extend your hike, you can hike around the lake and then go on the trail to Inspiration point and Hidden falls.
Hidden falls
Scenic Raft ride on Snake river : We booked this trip through Jackson Lake lodge It is a 10 mile float on the snake river with some animal and bird spotting but overall we found it bit boring but it is a good family activity.
Day 6, Delta Lake Hike and Mormon row with stop at Schwabacher landing
An early start to ensure parking at the trail head for the delta lake hike at the Lupine Meadow trailhead. Delta Lake is one of the hidden gems of the Grand Tetons, but it is not on the official trail and hence unmarked and unmaintained. This hike is strenuous hike with 8.75 miles of out and back trial which will take about 3-5 hours but really worth it.
Delta Lake
Day 6 : Evening- We decided to drive the 42-mile scenic loop and stop at the Schwabacher landing and Mormon row which is another iconic spot for photos
Day 7, Fly back to ATL– Early morning flight from Jackson Hole to Atlanta
Where to stay
There are several options both in Jackson Hole as well as other areas near to each of the entrances. This blog has the best information for best places stay in and around Yellowstone. We decided to stay in Canyon Lodge and Jackson Lake Lodge as both were inside the National Parks and we were fortunate to find spaces in both hotels even though we booked only 3-4 months before our trip. We booked through the official national park lodging site and found that staying inside the park gave us the flexibility and early start times before the park got crowded.
Final thoughts
Yellowstone:
Yellowstone is absolutely must visit for everyone and has something for everyone.
We found that 2 and 1/2 days was perfect amount of time to spend without feeling hurried
You can easily spend a week or two in Yellowstone
If you have only limited amount of time, I recommend spending at least a day and see Upper Geyser basin (Old Faithful), Midway Geyser basin (Grand Prismatic), Grand Canyon, and Artist Paint pots to see the variety of thermal features Yellowstone has to offer.
Grand Tetons:
Often overlooked compared its most famous neighbor Yellowstone, this park was my favorite and is hiker’s paradise. After the crowds of Yellowstone, we liked the slower pace of Grand Tetons and beautiful views. If possible, at least spend couple of days in this park.
Costa Rica… a paradise of lush rainforests, golden beaches, and vibrant biodiversity, where nature lovers and thrill-seekers alike find their haven. Here, travelers can immerse themselves in the lively streets of San José, filled with rich history, bustling markets, and welcoming locals. Or, venture beyond the capital into the heart of the country’s breathtaking wilderness—where towering volcanoes, misty cloud forests, and exotic wildlife create a mesmerizing world waiting to be explored.
Costa Rica’s magic is undeniable—from the dazzling Pacific and Caribbean coastlines to the serene beauty of its national parks, home to sloths, toucans, and colorful frogs. Whether riding the waves in Tamarindo, ziplining through Monteverde’s treetops, or savoring the country’s renowned coffee, every moment here is an invitation to adventure and relaxation. Pura vida is more than a saying—it’s a way of life that welcomes visitors with open arms and unforgettable experiences.
Costa Rica is located in Central America, connecting North and South America. It borders Nicaragua to the north and Panama to the south.
The country is divided into seven provinces – San José (capital), Alajuela, Cartago, Heredia, Puntarenas, Guanacaste and Limón) and most popular destination include : San Jose, La Fortuna, Monteverde, Tamarindo, Nosara, Samara, Jaco, Manuel Antonio, Uvita, Drake Bay (See the map below)
Costa Rica doesn’t have an army as of Dec. 1, 1948 and very stable democratic country.
Official language- Spanish
Official currency- Colón (plural colones) (¢)
Where to fly?
There are 2 main airports and few small local airports –
SJO Aeropuerto Internacional Juan Santamaría – In San Jose (Capital)Juan Santamaría International Airport (Code: SJO) is the country’s main airport, located in Alajuela.
Daniel Oduber International Airport in Liberia (Code: LIR) good airport for travelling Guanacaste, Monteverde and La Fortuna
Places to go in Costa Rica
Costa Rica has so many places that you will be overwhelmed to choose one or two places to visit. I found Costa Rica might be a place we will have to visit more than once to cover the entire country. If you just want to see our itinerary, check here .
Even though a small country, it takes long time to travel from place to place due to mountainous, curvy, single lane roads. For instance, to travel from La Fortuna to Manuel Antonio, it took us almost 6 hours and it is 136 miles (218 km) apart and we were told that we were lucky that it took us only that much time (Hotel staff estimated anywhere between 6-9 hours). Keeping this in mind, we decided to choose 2 places to visit for our first trip- La Fortuna and Manuel Antonio (2 green flags on the map above)
Most popular locations include:
Central Costa Rica – Culture and nature
San Jose – Culture, Museum, Airport, Restaurants
Poas volcano: most visited volcano in the Central Valley. Good stopping point between San Jose and La Fortuna
La Paz Waterfalls : La Paz Waterfall Garden is the another popular stop between San Jose and La Fortuna. This park has 5 waterfalls and an animal sanctuary.
Northern costa Rica – Outdoor adventure and Wild animals
La Fortuna / Monteverde – Best place for outdoor adventures
Distance from airport: Both San Jose airport and Liberia airport are about 2-3 hours.
Most people choose either La Fortuna or Monteverde for rainforest experience and some people do both places to experience rainforest and cloud forest (The cities are 80 miles apart). It takes about 5-6 hours to get to Monteverde from La Fortuna as you have either take a ferry to cross Lake Arenal or drive around Lake Arenal. This is the info from costa Rica Travel blog and if you want to include both La Fortuna and Monteverde in your travels, please check out this blog for details of travel between the two cities.
Rio Celeste – Another great place to visit near La Fortuna with a blue waterfall and lots of wild life. My review of this place is here
We dedicated day 5 for the long drive from La Fortuna to Manuel Antonio. There is not too much to do between these places other than stopping at Sarchi (https://www.atlasobscura.com/articles/colorful-oxcarts-costa-rica) to visit the last factory that makes Ox Cart. We stopped at the Río Tárcoles Crocodile Bridge which is near Jaco, and you can see lots of crocodiles in the river. There are few shops and restaurants here and it’s a good place to stretch your legs.
Guanacaste - Beaches, Surfing lessons,
Some popular spots in this area include Gulf of Papagayo, Tamarindo, Playa Conchal and Ricon De la Vieja National park- famous for natural hot springs and mud baths.
Nicoya Peninsula– Pristine beaches and yoga retreats
Santa Teresa– Beautiful beaches that are great for surfing. This town along with Malpais and Montezuma are in the blue zone where longevity of people is very high.
Playa Samara- Lovely beach town and famous for horse riding. Popular place for expats.
Nosara – Epicenter of Yoga retreats and epitome of Pura Vida lifestyle.
Osa Peninsula– Nature lovers and Photographers dream
Remote part of the Costa Rica on the pacific side and hence less touristy but home to Corcovado National Park which has 13 types of ecosystems and has amazing wildlife with over 40 species of frogs, 25 lizard’s species, crocodiles and 400 bird species. This is next my list to visit when we go back to Costa Rica
Drake Bay – Stunning destination for all water related actives including Snorkeling, Kayaking, scuba diving etc. Also great place for bird watching and hiking
Uvita– Famous for “The whale tail beach” as well as tropical rain forest. Good place to see humpback whales and other activities including waterfall visit, horseback riding etc.
CaribbeanCoast – Less touristy and chill vibe
Not as popular as the pacific coast , Carribean coast has its own vibe and blend of Latin and Carribean cultures. Some of the popular spots include :
Puerto Viejo – known for its stunning beaches, abundant wildlife and delicious food, this town gives the laid back feel that Caribbeans are known for. You can also visit Cahuita National Park to see monkeys, Sloths and birds.
Tortuguero National park– Located on the northeast side of the Caribbean coast, this national park is one of the best places in the world to see Giant Green Sea Turtles lay their eggs and to watch as the baby turtles hatch and make their way to the sea during the turtle season (June to October).
Some practical Information
Best season to visit is during dry season from December to April. We went at the end of December and still got rain almost every day for at least couple of hours.
Caribbean coast has very different season and less developed. Good time to see turtles hatching is between July to October
Nature and wildlife- Hiring guides help to see more animals but I also found that by paying attention to little noises (ruffling of leaves) or just looking up to the treetops helps a lot.
Tico time- Pack lot of patience. The Pura Vida life style is followed on the roads too. Driving from one location to another takes longer than you think due to one lane roads and getting behind slow moving trucks.
Popular locations such as La Fortuna, Manuel Antonio are very well connected but if you plan to go to remote locations such as Drake Bay, do some research.
Colones and dollars are accepted every where but it might be cheaper to use colones
Some essential things to pack- Dry bag or waterproof pouch, Light rain jacket, Water sandals or shoes, Bug spray, Binoculars, Sunscreen.
Like any other place, there are pick pocketers, and thieves that take your stuff if you leave it alone. Lock your vehicles and hide your valuables.
Chachagua Rainforest Hotel and Hot Springs located between the Children’s Eternal Rainforest and the Arenal Volcano National Park and is off the beaten path but still an amazing place to stay. We spent 4 nights during Christmas break and loved the room, the grounds, and over all ambience of the place.
Only con is that it is about 20 min from La Fortuna town and if you don’t have your own car, you are stuck eating in-house restaurant food for the length of your stay. The food is not bad but limited as they try to do as much farm to table type with the fresh fruits and vegetables grown in their farm. Unlike the hotels in the town, you can’t walk or Uber to a local Soda/ restaurant and taking a cab is bit on expensive side( $50-80).
The property has 28 bungalows and feels like a mix of rainforest and tropical garden, and I could not stop taking pictures of beautiful flowers and birds that fed on them. There is a river running through the middle of the property which adds to the serenity of the hotel. The hotel has about 3-4 small thermal pools fed by volcanic hot water an additional plus for the place. The thermal pools are not as hot as the pools near the volcano but warm enough to relax after a long day of hiking.
Welcome cocktailShampoo Ginger
The hotel sits on 94 hectares of rainforest, and it is isolated and unspoiled. This hotel was featured in 1000 places to see before you die by Patricia Shultz, and we felt like it was one the best hotel we stayed. The hotel also has its own waterfall, and I spent every morning just admiring the calmness and setting of this waterfall. There are tons of hiking paths, and you can watch birds, monkeys, and sloths on the property.
The Bungalows: Most of the rooms are 1-bedroom bungalows with the porch in the front. The individual bungalows are surrounded by trees and bushes and connected by walking paths and are very private. The porch has a hammock, a sofa with coffee table, and built in wooden table and stools. If you decide to get a massage or facial, they bring the massage table to the porch, and you can get a massage in the tranquility of rain forest. We stayed in room 107 and felt like we were cocooned in our own rainforest. Some of the bigger bungalows have plunge pool and jacuzzi tubs.
Massage set up on the porchMassage on the porch with real rainforest sounds Walkways connecting bungalows.
Night walk and Bullet ants– We did nigh walk on the property where we were able to see various kinds of frogs, toads, turtles, sleeping hummingbird, but what we didn’t expect to see was Bullet ants. Bullet ants are named after its powerful and potent sting that feels like being shot, and they are also called “hormiga veinticuatro” or “24 (hour) ant” by the locals, referring to the 24 hours of pain that follow being stung by one of these ants. There were tons of these ants roaming around lake, on fences and our guide warned us not to lean on anything. Thankfully nobody was bit, but presence of these ants added to mystery of the night. Bullet ants are 4 times the size of regular ant and are nocturnal.
Night walk ToadBullet antSleeping butterfly
Birds and working farm – One of my favorite memories of this hotel is waking up in the morning and looking out of the window to see a hummingbird feeding on heliconia flower. This happened pretty much every day and the hotels has tons of hummingbirds that feed on the tropical flowers on the property. On my morning hike every day, I would spend some time watching birds including Toucans. The last day, we decided to check out the cocoa and coffee farm where they teach how to make coffee and cocoa. I wish I had ventured out to this place earlier on our stay. Since this is a working farm, there are tons of fruit trees and Toucans and Aracari’s hanging out here feeding on the fruits. It is few steps from the waterfall and definitely worth checking out both for the cooking class as well as for birds.
Toucan in flightFarm on the Chachagua hotelSugar Cane juice maker
Ceiba Tree– Hiking within the property, there are signs for Ceiba tree which is well worth the visit. It’s a giant tree that stands tall among the rainforest trees and after visiting the tree, I did some research and found out that this tree is the national tree of Guatemala and has significant place in both Mayan and African cultures.
Ceiba Tree on Chachagua Ceiba Tree on Chachagua
Called as the First Tree or Green Tree in Mayan language (Yax Che), according to Maya mythology, Ceiba tree the symbol of the universe. The tree signified a route of communication between the three levels of earth. Its roots were said to reach down into the underworld, its trunk represented the middle world where the humans live, and its canopy of branches arched high in the sky symbolized the upper world and the thirteen levels in which the Maya heaven was divided (Source: https://www.thoughtco.com/ceiba-pentandra-sacred-tree-maya-171615).
Food and Drinks – Since we didn’t rent a car, we ended up eating at the Colibri restaurant on site which was pretty decent albeit limited selection. There was live music every day and we enjoyed ordering Tikki drinks just to see how many different kinds of cups we get.
Final Thoughts:
All in all, staying at Chachagua Rainforest Hotel and Spa was an amazing experience. I loved the cozy, private bungalows, and numerous hiking trails as well as the river and waterfall. The staff was very pleasant and helpful, and organized all the acuities including ziplining, hike to Rio Celeste, and white-water rafting through the hotel and had a great time.
Some more random pictures taken from the hike on the property:
We spent 9 days in Costa Rica dividing our time between La Fortuna rainforest/volcano area and Manuel Antonio-pacific beach town. We got to see tons of animals during our stay and on our guided hikes to National parks and night walks. I was amazed by the variety of birds, lizards, flowers, and monkeys you can see as well as the way Costa Ricans have preserved the nature and its diversity. Costa Rica is one country where I found my iPhone camera isn’t enough to capture all the colors and vibrancy of nature.
These are some of the things that fascinated me during our stay:
Leaf Cutter Ants- Nature’s farmers that grow Fungai
First time I saw these little ants carrying the leaves was on a zip lining trip in La Fortuna and someone pointed them out to me. I was amazed by these ants carrying as much 50 times their weight in leaves as if to prepare an amazing salad. I read about them after coming back to hotel and spent next couples of hikes actively looking for them. Next to the human society, leaf cutter ants have most complex society with caste system and are the best farmers after us.
Leafcutter ants don’t eat the leaves they carry but use leaves as their fertilizer to grow their fungal gardens. These ants act as true gardeners by providing the fungus with freshly cut leaves, protecting them from pests and molds, and clearing them of decayed material and garbage. In return, the fungus acts as a food source for the ants’ larvae. Ants are very sensitive to the needs of these fungi and change up the leaf if the Fungai don’t like it as a food source. This symbiotic relationship also benefits from a bacterium that grows on the ant’s bodies and secretes antimicrobials, which the ants use to protect their fungi. You can read more about these amazing insects here .
Leaf Cutter ants
Sloth and its symbiotic relationship with algae and moth
Most people who go to Costa Rica want to see sloths which are the national animal and symbol of Costa Rica. We were able to see Sloths in a few places both in La Fortuna and in the Parador resort at Manuel Antonio which had a resident sloth named Valentina that hung out by the pool on the mango tree with her baby.
Valentina-the 2 toed sloth and her baby at Parador Resort in Manuel AntonioRandom 3-toed sloth on the way to hanging bridge
Although pretty common in Costa Rica, Sloths are not easy to spot. We were able to see 3-toed sloths in La Fortuna area during daytime while we saw nocturnal 2 t0ed sloths in Manuel Antonio Park. We weren’t able to spot first few until the guides pointed out but after a week, we got pretty good at spotting them especially on certain tress where they inhabit. As a slow-moving animal, sloths have developed a good camouflage technique that makes them hard to find. Sloths have a specialized fur coat that is covered in tiny grooves, providing the perfect environment for green algae to grow. This green alga acts as a natural camouflage, allowing the sloth to blend seamlessly with the surrounding green leaves of rain forest. This camouflage not only helps sloths hide but also provides a source of nutrients as these sloths often lick their fur, eating the algae, which provides them with essential vitamins and minerals.
Spot the slothSpot the sloth
Hermit hummingbird and false bird of paradise/ Heliconiaflower
One of my favorite memories from Costa Rica was waking up on day 1 in the rain forest bungalow and looking out of the window to see a hummingbird feeding on a flower. The Chachagua Rainforest hotel where we stayed had beautiful gardens and tons of hummingbirds but every morning, the one hummingbird came back to feed on the same flower. Until we went on hike to Rio Celeste and Naturalist guide explained relationship between the hummingbird and this particular flower, I finally understood the reason.
The false bird of paradise is called Heliconia and Green hermit hummingbirds have a symbiotic relationship, and this relationship is a great example of the fine tuning of coevolution between plants and its pollinators. The green hermit hummingbirds have curved bill that mimics the shape of the flower of Heliconia. Only after being pollinated by these long-billed birds, the Heliconia plant begins to reproduce. The plant accepts pollen only from birds with bills that match the shape of its flowers. It seems like the long-billed birds and long-flowered plants evolved to fit each other. Isn’t nature full of surprises? You want to read more about this symbiotic relationship, you can check out this article.
Red eyed tree frog
Red eye tree frog is the most iconic symbol of Costa Rica and you will see on any books or items related to Costa Rica. I thought it would be easy to see these frogs as everyone posts beautiful pictures of them but our first night walk in La Fortuna, we didn’t see any red eyed tree frogs. I was determined to see them before we left Costa Rica and we did another night walk at the Parador nature resort. As soon as we reached the pond area, the guide said you are in luck as he can hear the mating call of the frog but after 30 minutes searching, we didn’t find any even though we knew they were close by but well hidden in the trees.
As much as you can easily recognize these frogs with their large red eyes and bright green skin, they are hard to spot. The bright green color of the skin easily blends with the surrounding and when frightened they close their eyes and perfectly blend on the green rain forest leaves and surface. The large red eyes of these frogs also help them to see in low light conditions. Additionally, the red eyes can help to startle predators and give these frogs a chance to escape. Our guide was finally able to spot one on our way back from the night walk and I was able to finally capture the picture of this iconic frog.
Halloween Crabs
These crabs go by various names including red land crab, white spot crab, moon crab etc and usually have some combination of red, orange, purple, black, and or blue. When every animal in rainforest is trying to blend with its environment and hide from predators, these crabs seem have taken opposite approach and gone as colorful as possible. As you walk through Manuel Antionio National Park or kayak in Mangroves, you will see hundreds of these crabs. When I asked guide why they are so brightly colored, I was told that the crabs have poor vision and bright colors is how they see each other. According to this article, these crabs are also ecosystem engineers and create habitats with deep dug borrows. “These burrows then serve as homes for a host of other creatures after the crab has moved on or become something’s dinner. They also participate in the nutrient cycle. They eat seeds, seedlings, and leaf matter, which they carry down to their burrows returning nutrients to the soil. Their diet affects their environment in another way. The seeds and seedlings that they decide to eat or not eat ultimately help to shape the plant populations in the areas where they live” (from https://guanacastewildlifemonitoring.com/)
White tailed deer- National Symbol of Costa Rica wildlife
One of the first animal we saw in Manuel Antonio National Park was a white-tailed deer and its baby and our guide spent 10 minutes talking about the animal. Living in Northeast and South of US, where these deer are everywhere and not so special and they usually they run into roads causing accidents. But sometimes, when you travel, you realize that your ordinary is someone’s extraordinary. In Costa Rica, these deer sightings are rare and it’s an accomplishment to see these animals. They are a protected species facing extinction and penalty for killing these animals is huge and our guide joking said that ” he would rather be caught selling drugs and other petty crimes than to kill this deer”. White tailed dee is declared national symbol, by President José María Figueres Olsen, on May 2nd, 1995.
We were able to see couple of different kinds of venomous snakes in Costa Rica. We saw the eyelash viper both in Mistico hanging bridges as well as in Rio Celste hike. One of the most prominent features of the eyelash viper is its scales, which are responsible for its rough and bumpy appearance, providing a unique texture to its skin. The color of the snake usually shades of green or yellow and it seamlessly blends into its surrounding. Both times, the guides were able to spot them, but we struggled spot them even after we knew they were there. The name of these snakes comes from extensions of scales above the eyes resemble eyelashes.
Fer-de-lance – Another venomous snake we saw in Manuel Antonio ( scientifically known as Bothrops asper). Fer-de-lance means “spearhead” in French, this venomous pit viper is known for its triangular-shaped head and deadly venom and are masters of camouflage. Again, even after the guide pointed out, it took us a little while see this snake. On the flip side, the coral snake we saw on our hike to Rio Celeste is as bright as possible.
We were able to see several types of birds both in La Fortuna and in Manuel Antonio. Humming birds and Toucans were abundant in Chachagua Nature resort that we stayed in La Fortuna. We saw couple of Scarlet Macaws in Manuel Antonio but weren’t able to capture their photo. One of the crown jewels of Costa Rican bird is the Quetzal, we didn’t get to see it, but we will see them in our next trip to Costa Rica.
Flowers of Costa Rica
Just like the birds, Costa Rica has abundant flowers of various colors and sizes including a variety of Orchids, Birds of Paradise, False Bird Paradise (Heliconia), and ornamental bananas. One of the most beautiful and best smelling flower/ plant I saw is the shampoo ginger which smells like ginger and is used for making shampoos as well as Ilan-Ilan that smelled like Channel No. 5 perfume.
Shampoo Ginger Ilan-Ilan
Colorful carts of Costa Rica
When you travel in Costa Rica, you will see these bright colored carts displayed in parks, hotels, and miniature versions in gift and souvenir shops. These bright colored and intricate patterned carts are unique to Costa Rica and were essential to Costa Rica’s growth, enabling the transport of coffee from the mountains to the coasts for export. Costa Ricans improved the cart design using a solid construction based on Aztec wheels that helped them to get through unique landscape of Costa Rica. In 2005, UNESCO inscribed Costa Rican oxcarts onto its list of intangible cultural heritage, and these carts the country’s official symbol of labor.
Even though Ox Carts are no longer used in Costa Rica for transportation, instead of fading away, ox cart become a symbol of Costa Rica and a testament to the old way of doing things. The painted carts were symbol of economic status in their time and craftsman that made the carts started painting bright colors and intricate designs that included flowers, stars, faces, landscapes. Each town/area developed its own unique designs. Also, carts were added with bells and whistles, so each cart played a signature song whenever it moved. Today, Sarchí a small town near San Jose (a good stop on the way from La Fortuna to Manuel Antonio), is only place left that produces these colorful, hand-painted works of art. Eloy Alfaro, who founded the factory in 1923 in Sarchí and is operational till today and you can visit and see the factory in operation. (https://www.atlasobscura.com/articles/colorful-oxcarts-costa-rica)
Costa Rican Rainforest mask or Boruca Masks
Boruca Mask
One of my regrets after visiting Costa Rica is not buying one of these colorful masks made by Boruca community. The origin of these masks’ dates back to 500 years during the Spanish conquest of Costa Rica. These masks were created by Borucan indigenous people with the intent to scare the unwelcome Spinrads. These diablito masks or little devil masks were created as homage to the animal spirts that guided the tribe to successfully fight Spinrads. Usually carved in a single piece of Cedar or balsa wood, these intricate masks are carved and painted to represent the spirits, fierce animals, devils, and also images of the local flora and fauna. The carvers use a technique called relief carving that creates three dimensional images with unbelievable depth. There are 3 different kinds of mask – the ‘diablito’ or ‘devil’ mask are the traditional masks used for ceremonial purpose, ‘ecologica’, featuring animals and plants of the rainforest such as Toucan or sloth and are considered more modern and ‘combinados’, are the combination of both the ‘diablitos’ and the ‘ecologica’, as they represent the blending of the traditional and contemporary styles. (Check out here for more information). These masks can be bought in gift shops and other artisanal stores (not sure how authentic), but the authentic ones can be bought directly by Boruca Community or from this place in San Jose. The tradition and history behind these masks are amazing.
Peaks to Palaces 