Waved Albatross of Española: A Once‑in‑a‑Lifetime Wildlife Encounter

Visit the Galápagos island of Española between December to April, and you may witness one of the most extraordinary courtship rituals in the natural world. Each spring, nearly the entire global population of waved albatrosses—tens of thousands of birds—returns to this remote island to reunite with lifelong partners, raise a single chick, and perform a mating dance so intricate and theatrical that it feels choreographed by nature itself. With wingspans stretching up to eight feet, these are the largest birds in the Galápagos, yet their grace in the air contrasts beautifully with their endearing awkwardness on land. For travelers, seeing them here—on the only major breeding ground they have left—is nothing short of magical.

A Date With the Albatross: When to Plan Your Trip

The waved albatrosses follow a strict seasonal rhythm, and timing your visit is essential.

  • Late March – April (Arrival): The birds return to their only major breeding site on Española Island. Males typically arrive first to claim nesting spots, followed shortly by females.
  • April – June (Courtship & Egg Laying): This is the peak time to witness their famous courtship dance, which involves bill-clapping, bowing, and honking. Most eggs are laid during this window.
  • June – August (Incubation): Parents take turns incubating a single large egg for about two months. You can see many birds sitting on nests during this time.
  • August – November (Chick Rearing): Chicks hatch and are fed a nutrient-rich oily substance by their parents. By late in this period, large, fluffy, brown chicks are visible across the colony.
  • December – early January (Fledging & Departure): Young birds take their first flights, often wobbling to the cliffs for take-off. By mid-January, the colony is usually deserted as they head to the coasts of Ecuador and Peru

We were at the Waved Albatross nests on Española Island (specifically at Punta Suarez) at the end of December. We not only saw the young chicks learning to fly, but also saw the courtship dance (Vidoe below)

Choosing the Right Cruise: Why an Eastern Itinerary Matters

Because waved albatrosses breed only on Española Island, your cruise route determines whether you’ll see them at all.

The landing at Punta Suárez is rugged and dramatic, with blowholes, cliffs, and colonies of seabirds swirling overhead. But nothing prepares you for the moment you see your first albatross waddling across the lava rock, its oversized bill and blue‑tinted feet giving it a charmingly awkward elegance.

Meet the Waved Albatross: The Ocean’s Master Glider

The waved albatross (Phoebastria irrorata) is a study in contrasts—both powerful and delicate, comical and majestic.

  • Wingspan: Up to 2.5 meters (8 feet), the largest in the Galápagos
  • Appearance: White head with a creamy yellow crown and neck, chestnut‑brown body, white underwings, and a long, dull‑yellow bill
  • Namesake: The subtle wave‑like pattern on the adults’ wings
  • Lifestyle: Exceptional gliders, spending years at sea without touching land
  • Diet: Fish, squid, and invertebrates—often scavenged near fishing boats or stolen from boobies

Despite their size, they move with surprising grace in the air, riding ocean winds for hours without flapping. On land, however, they transform into endearing, slightly clumsy characters—true to the Spanish root of “bobo,” meaning “foolish,” a name shared with their booby neighbors.

The Courtship Dance: One of Nature’s Most Theatrical Rituals

If there is one wildlife behavior that defines the waved albatross, it is their courtship dance—a ritual so intricate and expressive that it feels choreographed.

Pairs face each other, leaving just enough space to stretch their long necks. Then the performance begins:

  • Bill circling
  • Bill clacking
  • Hollow wooden tapping sounds
  • Exaggerated head sways
  • Honking
  • Bowing
  • A waddle that borders on comedic
  • And the occasional cow‑like “moo”

For new pairs or those that failed to breed the previous year, the dance can last hours—sometimes days. It is a test of compatibility, trust, and lifelong partnership.

Because waved albatrosses are monogamous, this ritual is not just courtship—it is a reaffirmation of a bond that may last decades.

Life on Española: Nesting, Parenting, and the Long Journey Ahead

Once bonded, the pair lays a single egg directly on bare ground. They take turns incubating it for nearly two months. After hatching:

  • Chicks join “nursery groups” while parents forage
  • Adults return to feed them a nutrient‑rich oily liquid
  • Young albatrosses fledge at around 5.5 months
  • They then spend up to six years at sea before returning to Española to find a mate

With only one chick per year and threats from fishing, pollution, and habitat changes, the species remains vulnerable—making every successful breeding season a triumph.

Why Española Is the Only Place to See Them

Nearly the entire global population—estimated at 50,000–70,000 individuals—returns to Española each year. A tiny secondary colony exists on Isla de la Plata off mainland Ecuador, but with fewer than 20 breeding pairs, Española remains the heart of the species.

This exclusivity makes your visit feel even more special. You’re not just seeing a bird—you’re witnessing a species in its ancestral home, performing rituals unchanged for millennia.

Final Thoughts: A Wildlife Encounter Worth Crossing Oceans For

Standing on the cliffs of Española, watching thousands of waved albatrosses reunite, dance, nest, and soar, you feel the pulse of the Galápagos in its purest form. It’s a reminder of how fragile and extraordinary these islands are—and why they continue to inspire travelers, naturalists, and storytellers alike.

If your Galápagos journey is about connection, wonder, and witnessing nature at its most theatrical, then timing your trip to meet the waved albatross is an experience you’ll never forget.

Punta Pitt Wildlife Guide: Home of the Red‑, Blue‑, and Nazca Boobies

Boobies—named after the Spanish word bobo—meaning “clumsy”—boobies earned their name from their slightly awkward, waddling gait on land. The Galapagos Islands are home to three different species of boobies, which include the blue-footed, red-footed, and Nazca boobies. Each species possesses its own remarkable traits and behaviors, making them a highlight for wildlife enthusiasts. Their unique coloring not only helps in distinguishing between the species but also plays a role in courtship displays, where vivid colors attract mates and signify health. Observing these dazzling birds in their natural habitat provides a rare glimpse into their daily lives, from their fascinating mating rituals to their playful interactions with one another. It is well worth the journey to the Enchanted Isles of the Galapagos to witness these fascinating and captivating species found throughout the archipelago, which bring vibrancy and life to the rugged landscapes, enhancing the overall allure of this UNESCO World Heritage site.

Punta Pitt, located on San Cristóbal Island, is an iconic destination in the Galápagos, known for being the only place where you can observe all three species of boobies: the blue-footed booby, the red-footed booby, and the Nazca booby. This site, with its unique biodiversity and stunning landscapes, attracts nature and wildlife enthusiasts, making it a must-see stop for anyone visiting the archipelago.

The Three Boobies of Punta Pitt

Because of its unique geographical location and abundant food supply, these species coexist without competition, each utilizing a different nesting niche

  • Blue-footed Boobies: Typically nest further inland on the ground, away from the cliffs.
  • Red-footed Boobies: The rarest of the three in the archipelago, they are uniquely distinguished by their ability to nest in trees and shrubs, such as Palo Santo.
  • Nazca Boobies: Also known as Masked Boobies, they prefer nesting directly along the cliff edges

Visiting Punta Pitt

How to Get There: You can visit via a Galápagos cruise or a day tour departing from Puerto Baquerizo Moreno on San Cristóbal. The boat ride takes approximately 1.5 to 2 hours each way. The cruise we were on had a planned stop at Punta Pitt in the late afternoon, when the birds were returning home after a day at sea. We got to see all 3 bobbies here, but the red-footed booby was definitely the highlight.

  • The Experience: Most tours involve a wet landing on an “olivine” beach (greenish-tinted sand) inhabited by a bachelor colony of sea lions. From there, you’ll hike a steep, rocky trail (approx. 1.5–2 hours) to reach the clifftop nesting sites.
  • Best Time to Visit: While wildlife is present year-round, June to November is generally the best period to see booby mating displays and peak nesting activity. 

Red Footed Bobby (Sula sula)

The red-footed booby is the tiniest of the boobies found on Galapagos, and it quickly proves that the nickname only tells half the story. The smallest of the Galápagos boobies is also the most agile: capable of soaring more than 90 miles over open ocean, diving up to 130 feet for fish, and using its vivid red webbed feet to propel itself underwater with surprising speed. Unlike most web-footed birds, red-footed boobies perch in trees and shrubs, giving them a unique silhouette against the island vegetation. Travelers can spot them at Punta Pitt on San Cristóbal and in large colonies on Genovesa Island, two of the best wildlife-viewing sites in the archipelago.

Blue footed Booby (Sula nebouxii)

The most iconic of the trio, the blue-footed booby also carries the “bobo” name thanks to its comical walk—but its brilliant turquoise feet are anything but silly. Their color comes from a carotenoid-rich diet, and during courtship, those feet become the star of an elaborate mating dance. Males lift each foot in an exaggerated strut, showing off their brightest blues; females respond by mirroring the steps, followed by bill clacking and whistles if they approve. Beyond their charm, blue-footed boobies are extraordinary hunters, spotting fish from high above and plunging into the water at speeds approaching 60 mph. Because they have no natural predators in the Galápagos, they’re wonderfully unbothered by humans and can be seen on nearly every major island—a delight for photographers and wildlife lovers alike.

Nazca Booby (Sula granti)

The largest of the Galápagos boobies, the Nazca booby also inherited the “bobo” nickname for its land-bound awkwardness, though its sleek white plumage, orange bill, and black-tipped wings give it a striking, almost regal presence. This species is best known for a dramatic behavior called obligate siblicide: parents lay two eggs, but only the stronger chick survives, ensuring that enough resources are available for one healthy fledgling. Despite this harsh strategy, Nazca boobies are captivating to watch as they glide effortlessly over the ocean and nest in dense colonies along the cliffs. They are most commonly seen on Punt Pitt, Genovesa Island, and Española Island, where visitors can observe their nesting sites up close along marked trails.

Final thoughts

In a place as wild and wondrous as the Galápagos, the boobies embody everything that makes these islands unforgettable—quirky charm, fearless curiosity, and evolutionary brilliance on full display. Whether it’s the red-footed booby perched improbably in a shrub, the blue-footed booby performing its turquoise‑footed dance, or the regal Nazca booby guarding its cliffside nest, each species offers a glimpse into the archipelago’s untamed spirit. Spotting even one is a delight but encountering all three feels like a true Galápagos rite of passage. For travelers who come seeking wildlife encounters found nowhere else on Earth, the boobies are a joyful reminder of why these Enchanted Isles continue to inspire wonder long after the journey ends.

Hiking to the Stunning Lake Above the Ocean

The desktop background that set me on an adventure to the Faroe Islands…. You might have seen this lake as a desktop background. Once I saw it, I knew I had to visit. The entire trip was planned with a hike to the Lake above the ocean as the primary focus.

Lake Sørvágsvatn, the largest lake in the Faroe Islands, covers an impressive 3.4 square kilometers and appears to hover enchantingly over the North Atlantic Ocean from the dramatic heights of Trælanípa Cliff. This optical illusion is caused by the elevation of the lake compared to the sea. At its end the stunning 30-meter-high Bøsdalafossur waterfall that cascades gracefully down into the ocean. This picturesque viewpoint not only showcases the waterfall, but it also offers an awe-inspiring view of the sea stack Geituskoradrangur.

* The lake is known by two names, Sørvágsvatn and Leitisvatn, due to local preferences. Sørvágsvatn is preferred by the people of Sørvágur, while Leitisvatn is favored by those in Miðvágur and Sandavágur.

Hiking guidelines and starting point

You need to pay to do this hike as the lake and the cliffs sit on private property. There is a dirt parking lot at the beginning and a reception hut. You can buy tickets as well as get snacks and souvenirs from this small shop. More information can be found at the landowners’ web page.

The gate is open 24/7. If you want to do an early morning sunrise or sunset hike, you can still do the hike and pay later. (Honor system). It’s an easy hike with minimal elevation gain. However, wear proper shoes as the muddy path can get slippery when it’s raining.

How to get to Sørvágsvatn/ Leitisvatn lake

Public Bus Travel from Tórshavn

  • The main bus terminal in Tórshavn is known as Farstøðin. It serves public blue buses. These buses run between Tórshavn and villages on Vágar Island (where the lake is located).
  • You can take a bus from Tórshavn to nearby villages such as Miðvágur or Sandavágur. These villages serve as common starting points for hikes to the lake.
  • The ride from Tórshavn to these villages generally takes around 40 minutes to an hour. This includes travel through the underwater tunnel that connects Streymoy (Tórshavn’s island) and Vágar Island.

Self Drive/ Car

You can drive to the dirt parking lot, pay the fee at the entrance, and hike on your own. It is a straightforward route that can be easily done on your own.

Private guided tour

You can hire a private guide for this tour. I took a guided hike with JH Tours, which is run by Johan and his family. I highly recommend JH tours for all tours around the Faroe Islands. You can reach him at Faroestours@gmail.com or (+298)28 28 00. They can plan 6-7-day tours that include all the highlights of the Faroes. You can book a local lunch cooked by Johan’s mother, Jona. This way, you can have an authentic Faroese culinary experience at their house.

This tour also includes visiting Múlafossur Waterfall  and the village of  Gásadalur. We also stopped at the village of Bøur and had a packed picnic lunch on the black sand beach with the views of Tindhólmur and the stacks Drangarnir.

Key Highlights on the hike

From the reception, the hike is pretty simple and straightforward. You can stop at various view points. Some of the most impressive view points include:

Trælanípa (Viewpoint 1 and 3)

Trælanípa is a magnificent perpendicular rock wall. It juts an impressive 142 meters upwards out of the vast expanse of the sea. This creates a breathtaking sight for all who visit. The name Trælanípa translates to Slave Cliff, a chilling reminder of its dark history. It derives its name from the Viking Age, a time when the harsh realities of survival dictated brutal outcomes. During this period, old and sick slaves who were no longer deemed useful to their masters were callously pushed off the mountain, offering a stark reflection of the values and harshness of that era.

If the cliffs look familiar, it has been used in the Peter Pan and Wendy movie. You can check out more locations in the Faroe Islands that have been shown in the film here.

Lake above the ocean (viewpoint 2)

Continuing on the path, you will take a set stairs to get to the view point of Lake above the ocean. There is a small sign that shows where the best point to stand for the best photos. It was a rainy and cloudy day, but still I managed to get a few decent shots.

Bøsdalafossur Waterfall (Viewpoint 4)

Continue down from the viewpoint of the lake above the ocean. You will have to do some rock scrambling to reach the Bøsdalafossur Waterfall viewpoint. Be careful, as the stones can be slippery especially after rain.

Bøsdalafossur Waterfall falls dramatically from Lake Leitisvatn into the North Atlantic Ocean. It flows from an impressive height of 30 metres (98 feet) above sea level. This creates a stunning visual spectacle that captivates nature lovers and adventurers alike.

From viewpoint 4, you can also see Geituskorardrangur is a free-standing rock wall. This rock formation towers 116 metres (380 feet) above sea level. 

Other interesting things on the hike

The whole hike is next to the Lake. You will see waterfalls on the way, especially after the rain. These spring waters are safe to drink but make sure you will bottles from the flowing part and not the stagnant water. Our tour group empties our water bottles and fills them with refreshing spring water.

Final thoughts

Hike to Lake above the ocean is a very easy hike with tremendous rewards. This hike can be easily combined with nearby attractions. These include visiting the village of
Bøur, Múlafossur Waterfall, and Gásadalur. You can also combine this trip with the boat tour of Drangarnir & Múlafossur. Alternatively, consider the Drangarnir Hiking Tour, especially if you have a car, which gives you more flexibility to explore. Also, stop by the statue of Nix at the other end of the lake, close to the airport.

Tales from Balkan- Blagaj Tekke-A peaceful oasis

  1. Where is Blagaj
  2. Blagaj Tekke the dervish retreat
  3. Best place to take photos of the Tekke
  4. Entrance fee

Where is Blagaj

The village of Blagaj na buni is located about 10 km (6 miles) from Mostar that could be reached by bus or car. The main attraction of the village is the Tekke or Tekkja – a place of spiritual retreat and reflection for Dervish monks. The unique feature of this Tekke is that it is built on a solid rocky soil at the right side of the source of the Buna River. A very high cliff stretches above the Tekija (240 meters high). On top of the cliff, you can see the remains of Stjepan Vukcic-Kosaca’s fort-town from the Middle Ages. The Buna River that flows adjacent to the monastery emerges from under the massive Karst stone formation after traveling over 19 kms underground.

Blagaj Tekke the dervish retreat

The primary purpose of the structure was to serve as a dervish Zikr praise-chanting (praising God and His names) venue and a retreat, and it is still active religious complex with Zikir praise chanting happening 3 times a week. The tekke was built around 1520 and it features elements of both Ottoman architecture and Mediterranean style. The dervishes follow a mystical strand of Islam in which the peaceful contemplation of nature plays a part, hence the Tekke’s idyllic positioning next to the river.

You can go inside the building by paying 10 marks and there are several different rooms including a kitchen, guest house, hammam, a room for praying, tombs, and a courtyard. There are some interesting features including the perforated dome in the hammam and beautiful wooden ceiling of  semahana, or the room used to perform zikr (religious chanting).

Best place to take photos of the Tekke

To get the iconic reflection of the Tekke in the water, you need to get the other side of the river. Cross-over the first bridge and walk behind the restaurants until you see a set of stairs that lead to the viewpoint.

Entrance fee

There is an entrance fee to go inside the Tekke- It is 10 marks/ 4-5 euros. Women are expected to cover their head and arms as well as wear long skirts. These are provided free of cost at the entrance.

Other things to do around Blagaj

There are several restaurants around Blagaj and you can get traditional food and drinks and enjoy the peaceful surroundings.

Paradise found- A review of staying in Chachagua rainforest bungalow in Costa Rica

Chachagua Rainforest Hotel and Hot Springs located between the Children’s Eternal Rainforest and the Arenal Volcano National Park and is off the beaten path but still an amazing place to stay. We spent 4 nights during Christmas break and loved the room, the grounds, and over all ambience of the place.

Only con is that it is about 20 min from La Fortuna town and if you don’t have your own car, you are stuck eating in-house restaurant food for the length of your stay. The food is not bad but limited as they try to do as much farm to table type with the fresh fruits and vegetables grown in their farm. Unlike the hotels in the town, you can’t walk or Uber to a local Soda/ restaurant and taking a cab is bit on expensive side( $50-80).

The property has 28 bungalows and feels like a mix of rainforest and tropical garden, and I could not stop taking pictures of beautiful flowers and birds that fed on them. There is a river running through the middle of the property which adds to the serenity of the hotel. The hotel has about 3-4 small thermal pools fed by volcanic hot water an additional plus for the place. The thermal pools are not as hot as the pools near the volcano but warm enough to relax after a long day of hiking.

The hotel sits on 94 hectares of rainforest, and it is isolated and unspoiled. This hotel was featured in 1000 places to see before you die by Patricia Shultz, and we felt like it was one the best hotel we stayed. The hotel also has its own waterfall, and I spent every morning just admiring the calmness and setting of this waterfall. There are tons of hiking paths, and you can watch birds, monkeys, and sloths on the property.

The Bungalows: Most of the rooms are 1-bedroom bungalows with the porch in the front. The individual bungalows are surrounded by trees and bushes and connected by walking paths and are very private. The porch has a hammock, a sofa with coffee table, and built in wooden table and stools. If you decide to get a massage or facial, they bring the massage table to the porch, and you can get a massage in the tranquility of rain forest. We stayed in room 107 and felt like we were cocooned in our own rainforest. Some of the bigger bungalows have plunge pool and jacuzzi tubs.

Night walk and Bullet ants– We did nigh walk on the property where we were able to see various kinds of frogs, toads, turtles, sleeping hummingbird, but what we didn’t expect to see was Bullet ants. Bullet ants are named after its powerful and potent sting that feels like being shot, and they are also called “hormiga veinticuatro” or “24 (hour) ant” by the locals, referring to the 24 hours of pain that follow being stung by one of these ants. There were tons of these ants roaming around lake, on fences and our guide warned us not to lean on anything. Thankfully nobody was bit, but presence of these ants added to mystery of the night. Bullet ants are 4 times the size of regular ant and are nocturnal.

Birds and working farm – One of my favorite memories of this hotel is waking up in the morning and looking out of the window to see a hummingbird feeding on heliconia flower. This happened pretty much every day and the hotels has tons of hummingbirds that feed on the tropical flowers on the property. On my morning hike every day, I would spend some time watching birds including Toucans. The last day, we decided to check out the cocoa and coffee farm where they teach how to make coffee and cocoa. I wish I had ventured out to this place earlier on our stay. Since this is a working farm, there are tons of fruit trees and Toucans and Aracari’s hanging out here feeding on the fruits. It is few steps from the waterfall and definitely worth checking out both for the cooking class as well as for birds.

Ceiba Tree– Hiking within the property, there are signs for Ceiba tree which is well worth the visit. It’s a giant tree that stands tall among the rainforest trees and after visiting the tree, I did some research and found out that this tree is the national tree of Guatemala and has significant place in both Mayan and African cultures.

Called as the First Tree or Green Tree in Mayan language (Yax Che), according to Maya mythology, Ceiba tree the symbol of the universe. The tree signified a route of communication between the three levels of earth. Its roots were said to reach down into the underworld, its trunk represented the middle world where the humans live, and its canopy of branches arched high in the sky symbolized the upper world and the thirteen levels in which the Maya heaven was divided (Source: https://www.thoughtco.com/ceiba-pentandra-sacred-tree-maya-171615).

Food and Drinks – Since we didn’t rent a car, we ended up eating at the Colibri restaurant on site which was pretty decent albeit limited selection. There was live music every day and we enjoyed ordering Tikki drinks just to see how many different kinds of cups we get.

Final Thoughts:

All in all, staying at Chachagua Rainforest Hotel and Spa was an amazing experience. I loved the cozy, private bungalows, and numerous hiking trails as well as the river and waterfall. The staff was very pleasant and helpful, and organized all the acuities including ziplining, hike to Rio Celeste, and white-water rafting through the hotel and had a great time.

Some more random pictures taken from the hike on the property: