Category: India

The second stop in our trip to Badami, Pattadakal, and Aihole was Pattadakal. Aihole is the “cradle” of Chalukyan architecture, showcasing early experimentation with various styles (rock-cut & structural). Pattadakal signifies the mature culmination. This UNESCO site features the convergence of North Indian (Nagara) and South Indian (Dravidian) styles. Pattadakal has large, free-standing temples, like the Virupaksha Temple and are more sophisticated than the earlier designs in Aihole.

Visit Pattadakal to step back into the golden age of the Chalukya dynasty. This stunning UNESCO World Heritage site is located by the Malaprabha River in Karnataka. The literal meaning of the city’s name in the local language is “City of Coronations.” The city and its temples date back to the 8th century. Back in the day, the site was sacred. It was where kings were crowned. Their queens commissioned temples in gratitude for their husbands’ glorious return from battle. Pattadakal offers a deep insight into India’s artistic and spiritual heritage.

The Chalukyan rulers were significant patrons of art, fostering a transition from rock-cut to structural temples. At Pattadakal, a royal coronation site, they blended North Indian (Rekha/Nagara) and South Indian (Dravida/Vimana) architectural styles. This work is notable for its unique blend.

The Rekha Prasad (Nagara) style features tall, curvilinear towers (shikharas). These towers rise from a raised platform (mostly seen in North India). In Pattadakal Galagantha, Kashi Vishveswara, and Jumbulinga temples are examples of the Nagara style. The Dravidian style is most commonly seen in South India. It uses stepped, pyramidal towers (vimanas). These are enclosed by walls with grand gateways (gopurams). The Mallikarjuna, Virupaksha, and Sangameshewara temples are good examples of the Dravidian style.

Key Temples and Architecture at Pattadakal

• Oldest Temple: The Sangamesvara temple was built by Vijayaditya. It is the oldest and exhibits a square, Pallava-like Dravidian style. This style has no sukanasika (vestibule projection).
• Virupaksha Temple: Built by Queen Lokamahadevi, it is the earliest fully developed temple complex at Pattadakal.
  • It features a large, square plan from base to the top (sikhara) and massive gateways (gopuras).
  • Its architecture, which includes the sukanasika, influenced the grand Kailasa temple at Ellora.
• Mallikarjuna Temple: Built by Queen Trilokyamahadevi immediately after and close to the Virupaksha. It is a smaller, four-story Dravidian temple. The temple has a unique circular top (griva and sikhara).
• Other Temples: the Kadasiddhesvara, Jambulingeswara, and Galaganatha temples are in the Nagara style.

Sculptural Art– The sculptures in these temples are known for their grace and detail.  Ceiling panels in the temples depict navagrahas and dikpalas, while wall niches showcase deities like Nataraja, Lingodbhava, and Harihara. Narrative reliefs illustrate episodes from the Ramayana, Mahabharata, Bhagavata, and Panchatantra, fitting perfectly within these religious structures.

Shri Virupaksha Temple

Queen Lokamahadevi built the largest and most elaborate temple in the complex around 740 CE. She did so to commemorate her husband, King Vikramaditya II’s victory over the Pallavas. This active house of worship features intricate carvings of Hindu deities. It also showcases scenes from the Ramayana and Mahabharata on its pillars. A massive Nandi statue is in the front pavilion.

Mallikarjuna Temple

It is located next to the Virupaksha Temple. Queen Trailokyamahadevi (the king’s second queen) built it around the same time. It is a smaller but similarly designed masterpiece. It is known for its exquisite sculptures. These include panels depicting the Rasa Lila of Krishna. They also depict various fables from the Panchatantra.

The Virupaksha and Mallikarjuna temples at Pattadakal are twin monuments. They epitomize the peak of Early Chalukyan architecture. These structures showcase a harmonious blend of North Indian (Nagara) and South Indian (Dravidian) styles. You can read more about these two temples here

Sangameshwara Temple

The oldest temple in the complex was built by King Vijayaditya between 697 and 733 CE. It is a grand example of early Chalukya Dravidian architecture, though its construction was never fully completed

Shri Galaganaatha Temple

This temple is dedicated to Lord Shiva. It is notable for its well-preserved Rekha Nagara-style tower. It also features a striking sculpture of an eight-armed Shiva killing the demon Andhaka.

Shri Kadasiddeshwara Temple

The 

Kadasiddheshwara Temple in the Pattadakal complex is a small, mid-to-late 7th- or early 8th-century Shiva temple. It is significant because it demonstrates the emerging Nagara (North Indian) architectural style. This example is at a site dominated by Dravidian temples.

Shri Papanaatha Temple

This large, ornate temple is situated outside the main cluster near the river. It is an excellent example of a fusion of both Nagara and Dravidian architectural styles. Its walls are adorned with detailed narrative friezes from the Ramayana.

Jain Narayana Temple

This 9th-century temple is located about a kilometer west of the main complex. It was built by the Rashtrakutas and features the Dravidian style. The temple offers a glimpse into the region’s religious diversity.

We didn’t get to see Papanaatha or the Jain temple due to time constraints. If you have time, they are definitely worth visiting.

Final thoughts

Pattadakal is more than just an archaeological site. It is a “living textbook” of Indian art and architecture. The Pattadakal group of monuments are culmination of centuries of Chalukyan experimentation. The northern Nagara and southern Dravidian styles finally achieved a perfect, harmonious fusion.

• A Royal Legacy: Standing among these monuments, you are witnessing a 1,300-year-old celebration of victory and devotion. The rivalry of two sister-queens gave us the Virupaksha and Mallikarjuna masterpieces. This rivalry ensures that the legacy of King Vikramaditya II’s triumphs remains etched in stone forever.
• The Soul of the Malaprabha: The location itself—where the Malaprabha River turns north—adds a layer of spiritual gravity. You may be a history buff or a casual traveler. Either way, the “Stone of Coronation” offers a rare connection to the transition in Indian temple design. It evolved from raw experiment to polished perfection.

We visited Aihole as part of our Badami, Pattadakal, and Aihole trip. All three sites are included in a UNESCO World Heritage site. Surrounded by red sandstone in Karnataka, India, Aihole is known for its rich history. Often referred to as the birthplace of Indian temple architecture, this small town features over 125 shrines built between the 4th and 12th centuries. Each shrine represents a part of the Chalukyan architectural journey. Our guide introduced us to Aihole, referred to as the “lab for temple design,” where temple concepts were tested before being refined in Pattadakal and Badami. Together, Badami, Pattadakal, and Aihole are central to Chalukyan heritage. Aihole was the workshop, Badami served as the royal capital in sandstone cliffs, and Pattadakal acted as the grand stage for these architectural achievements. These towns are close to one another, making them perfect for a day trip.

Historical Background

Aihole was originally known as **Ayyavole**, which means “village of monks” in old Kannada. The town is stategically located on the banks of Malaprabha river . The Chalukyas of Badami were the main patrons of the temples at Aihole. They ruled much of South India from their capital at Badami (formerly Vatapi), just 30 km away.

Cultural Contribution of Chalukyas

The Badami Chalukyas were instrumental in developing the Deccan style of architecture and patronized Sanskrit and Kannada literature.

• Carvings and Sculptures: Chalukyan temples are adorned with intricate carvings and sculptures depicting deities, mythological scenes, and everyday life.
• Shikharas and Vimanas: The shikharas (towers) of Chalukyan temples often feature intricate details and provide a distinctive silhouette. The vimanas, especially in the Dravidian style, are characterised by pyramidal structures.
• Mandapas: Temples typically have mandapas (pillared halls) with elaborately carved pillars, showcasing a high level of craftsmanship.
• Deity Sculptures: Chalukyan temples are known for their sculpted images of deities, with intricate details in jewellery, clothing, and expressions.
• Best examples of Chalukya Architecture: Cave Temples at Badami, Pattadakal-Virupaksha Temple, Mallikarjuna Temple, and others; Aihole (the cradle of Indian architecture); The Lad Khan Temple, Durga Temple, and Ravanaphadi Cave; Lakkundi-Kasivisvesvara Temple; Dravidian Influence: The Mahadeva Temple at Itagi.

📍 Must‑Visit Spots

• Durga temple complex with Durga Temple – Famous for its apsidal (horseshoe‑shaped) design and sculpted friezes. Lad Khan Temple – One of the earliest stone temples in India. It showcases the transition from wooden prototypes to enduring stone.
• Meguti Jain Temple – Perched on a hill with inscriptions that help date Chalukyan history.
• Ravana Phadi Cave – A rock‑cut shrine with expressive Shiva carvings.
• Huchappayya Matha & Hucchimalli Temple – Early experiments in temple form and ornamentation.
• Archaeological Museum – A small but insightful collection of sculptures and inscriptions.

🧭 How to Explore

• Most major temples are within walking distance of each other.
• Early mornings and late afternoons offer the best light for photography.
• Combine Aihole with Badami and Pattadakal for a full Chalukyan heritage circuit.

🧡 Who Will Love Aihole

• Architecture lovers
• History enthusiasts
• Slow travelers
• Families looking for an easy, educational outing
• Photographers chasing warm sandstone textures and quiet landscapes

Durga complex

We started off the visit in the Durga complex, which has a ticketed entry. We spent about 90-120 minutes walking through various temples and appreciating their historical significance. We visited the following temples at the Durga complex. I especially loved the unique architecture of the Durga temple and took tons of photos, especially from the back side. Click on the links to read more about each temple. Here are the must-do activities and unique features to observe at each of the temples and the step-well in the Aihole complex: 

• Durga Temple– Most unique temple with its horse-shoe architecture
  • Observe the unique architecture: This temple is a prime example of experimental Chalukyan architecture, notable for its apsidal or horse-shoe shape that resembles a Buddhist Chaitya hall or the hind part of an elephant (Gajaprishtha).
  • Walk the pillared corridor (pradakshina patha): The temple features a unique ambulatory path running around the inner shrine, lined with pillars and niches containing intricate high-relief sculptures of various Hindu gods and goddesses, including Narasimha, Varaha, Mahishasura Mardini, and Shiva leaning on Nandi.
  • Admire the detailed carvings: Look for the exquisite seven-headed serpent carved on the ceiling at the entrance to the inner shrine and the rich sculptural panels throughout the temple walls and pillars.

• Ladkhan temple/ Chalukya Shiva Temple– click the link to read more about how a Hindu temple got an Islamic name

• Appreciate its ancient structure: Dating to around the 5th century, it is one of the oldest temples in Aihole and is significant for its flat roof and mandapa style, showing an early adaptation of wood construction techniques into stone.Explore the inner halls: The temple’s interior is laid out with large, plain pillars arranged to form two concentric squares, and features beautiful lattice-work windows.Spot the Nandi statue: A large Nandi (Shiva’s bull) statue is prominently placed in the center of the main assembly hall (sabha-mandapa) facing the inner sanctum.

• Suryanarayan Temple
  • View the idol of Surya: Don’t miss the prominent idol of the sun god Surya with his two hands bearing lotuses, standing within an ornate cut-out frame. Also, observe the idol of his wives-Sandhya and Usha at his side.
  • Note the Nagara-style shikhara: Observe the partially preserved North Indian style curvilinear tower above the sanctum.

• Guadargudi
  • Examine the early design: Believed to be older than the Ladkhan temple, observe its basic, open rectangular structure with a colonnaded veranda, built on an elevated platform slightly below the current ground level of the complex.
  • Look for carvings: Check the outer walls for decorative kalasha (water pot) motifs.

• Chakragudi. This contrasts with the unique apsidal (semi-circular) plan of the nearby main Durga temple.
  • Study the preserved shikhara: The most notable feature is its well-preserved 7th or 8th century Nagara-style tower, a contrast to the unique plan of the nearby Durga temple.
  • Observe the doorway: The doorway to the sanctum has a carving of Garuda, the vehicle of Lord Vishnu, holding two snakes.

• Badigargudi-  Look for the specific phamsana (pyramidal) style tower with ornate kudus (arch-like motifs) in the middle.

Due to a lack of time, we didn’t visit other sites, including the Cave temples. If you have more time in Aihole, I would definitely suggest spending half a day exploring all that Aihole has to offer. Most tourists visit only the Durga complex, which gives you a good understanding of Chalukya-style temple architecture. I am hoping to return to this area and explore some of the other, less-visited temple complexes of Aihole.

As the first capital of the Early Chalukyas, Aihole serves as a grand “cradle of Indian architecture,” where centuries of experimentation paved the way for the masterpieces of Badami and the UNESCO World Heritage site of Pattadakal. From the unique apsidal design of the Durga Temple and the rock-cut precision of the Ravanphadi cave to the pioneering trikutachala and Rekha-prasada towers, the village offers an unparalleled timeline of structural evolution. Whether you are marvelling at the prehistoric Megalithic Dolmens or finding solitude in the isolated Galaganatha and Ramalinga clusters, a visit to Aihole is a journey through the very soul of ancient craftsmanship. No exploration of Karnataka’s heritage is complete without witnessing these 12 structural temples and sacred caves, which remain a testament to the creative transition from simple rock excavations to the definitive temple forms that would define South Indian history

Durga temple in Aihole is the largest and most richly embellished Hindu monument in town. The name Durga is misleading. It implies a temple built for Goddess Durga. However, the temple was originally dedicated to the Surya-Sun god. It was constructed in the early 8th century. Later, it became known as Durga when a stone rubble or Durg (fortified lookout) was built on its roof. The Durg has been removed since then, but the name stuck.

Architecture of Durga Temple

The unique character of the Durga temple is its horseshoe-shaped (apsidal-ended) form. This is an unusual feature for a Hindu temple. Aihole is considered an experimental lab for temple architecture. This temple was inspired by the Buddhist rock-cut Chaitya halls from the 2nd century.

Iconography of Durga Temple, Aihole

The Durga Temple features some of the most elaborate relief panels in the Aihole complex. 

• Deities: Carvings display a mix of Vedic gods and goddesses. Major artworks depict Vishnu, Shiva, and Surya. Surya is the Sun god, to whom the temple was likely originally dedicated. They also depict Durga as Mahishasuramardini, slaying the buffalo demon.
• Narrative Friezes: The base of the porch and mandapas contain narrative scenes, including episodes from the Hindu epic the Ramayana.
• Symbolism and Daily Life: Pillars at the entrance and within the porch are carved with ornamental reliefs. These include dvarapalas (guardian figures) and scenes of mithuna (amorous couples). This artistry reflects a blend of sacred and secular life. The ceiling once housed carved panels, some of which are now in the National Museum, New Delhi
• Ceiling: Don’t forget to look up. The carvings on the ceilings of the Mukha Mandapa conform to the Dravida architecture style

Devakoshtas and Jālandharas or the perforated windows

After climbing somewhat steep steps of the Durga Temple, please make time to go around the colonnaded veranda before going into the main sanctuary. The walls of the veranda have alternating perforated windows (Jalandharas) and Devokashtas. The carved panels of Devokashtas are among the greatest master pieces of early Chalukya art. In a clockwise direction, you can see Shiva with Nandi, lion-headed Narasinha, Vishnu flying on Garuda, Varaha, and Harihara. I took only photos of Shiva with Nandi and Varaha, but these should give you a good idea of the details found in these panels.

Alternating with the panels are the perforated windows, which let air and light into the inner sanctuary. There are various designs, including wheels with fish spokes. There are also Swastika signs with lotus. The Swastika is considered sacred in Hinduism, Buddhism, and the Jain faith.

Scriptures in Stone: Ramayana Scenes in the Carvings

Another thing to notice as you walk around the veranda is that the Narrative bas-reliefs are found on the plinth (base) . They depict various episodes from the Hindu epic the Ramayana. 

The panels along the base of the temple were intended to be read sequentially. This was meant to occur as a devotee performed the ritual circumambulation (pradakshina) around the shrine. They feature a continuous narrative style, similar to a comic strip, to tell the sacred story visually. 

Specific scenes found in these friezes at the Durga Temple include:

• Crossing the River: One identifiable scene shows Rama, Sita, and Lakshmana in a boat. They are crossing a river at the beginning of their exile.
• The Monkey Army: Other panels, such as the one pictured, depict the march of the Vanar Sena (monkey army). King Sugriva and the general Hanuman lead this army. They aided Rama in the search for Sita. They also participated in the battle against the demon king Ravana.
• Other Episodes: The entire frieze includes other key moments from the epic. These moments include the abduction of Sita by Ravana and the ensuing battles. 

These intricate carvings are prime examples of Early Chalukyan art from the 7th-8th centuries CE. This art blended mythological storytelling with detailed sculptural craftsmanship.

Garbhagruha or main sanctuary

The doorway of the Durga Temple in Aihole is an exquisite example of Early Chalukyan architecture, renowned for its rich and detailed carvings. 

Architectural Features

• Dvarabandha: The entrance (dvarabandha) leads into the sabhamantapa (congregation hall) and eventually the garbhagriha (inner sanctum).
• Multiple Frames: The door frame is intricately carved with five vertical bands (dwarashakhas), each featuring unique motifs.
• River Goddesses: At the base of the entrance, you can see carvings of the river goddesses Ganga (on her vehicle, the makara, on the right) and Yamuna (on a tortoise, on the left).
• Garuda on Lintel: Carved into the lintel (the beam above the door) is a figure of Garuda, the mythical eagle vehicle of Lord Vishnu, depicted clasping nagas (serpents with human heads) in his hands. The central naga on the left has seven serpent heads, identifying him as the Nagaraja, or king of serpents.
• Carved Pillars: The surrounding pillars and pilasters are adorned with various bas-reliefs, including mithuna (amorous couples), male musicians, and a series of female figures (apsaras).
• Ceiling Reliefs: Just before the entrance in the mukhamantapa (porch) ceiling are two notable bas-reliefs: the Matsya Chakra (Fish Wheel) and a coiled Nagaraja, both likely inspired by earlier carvings in the Badami caves. 

This intricate doorway, with its blend of religious and everyday life imagery, serves as a transition from the outer world to the sacred space of the temple

Final thoughts

Visiting the Durga Temple in Aihole feels like stepping into a living museum of early Chalukyan creativity. This beautifully preserved 7th–8th century does not have a idol yet the aura inside is unmistakably divine. The temple’s apsidal (horseshoe‑shaped) layout, pillared corridors, and richly carved devakoshtas make it one of Aihole’s most iconic structures. As you walk through the colonnaded passage, you’ll meet exquisite sculptures of Durga as Mahishasuramardini. You will also encounter sculptures of Harihara, Varaha, Narasimha, Shiva with Nandi, and Vishnu on Garuda. Each niche tells a vivid story in stone. The carvings remain astonishingly crisp, offering a rare chance to admire early temple art up close. The Durga Temple is compact, atmospheric, and architecturally unique. It is a must-visit stop for anyone exploring Aihole’s role as the cradle of Indian temple architecture.