Colorful Costa Rica-Camouflage to rainbow hues of Costa Rican animals, plants, and culture

Pura Vida – The pure life

We spent 9 days in Costa Rica dividing our time between La Fortuna rainforest/volcano area and Manuel Antonio-pacific beach town. We got to see tons of animals during our stay and on our guided hikes to National parks and night walks. I was amazed by the variety of birds, lizards, flowers, and monkeys you can see as well as the way Costa Ricans have preserved the nature and its diversity. Costa Rica is one country where I found my iPhone camera isn’t enough to capture all the colors and vibrancy of nature.

These are some of the things that fascinated me during our stay:

  1. Leaf Cutter Ants- Nature’s farmers that grow Fungai
  2. Sloth and its symbiotic relationship with algae and moth
  3. Hermit hummingbird and false bird of paradise/ Heliconia flower
  4. Red eyed tree frog
  5. Halloween Crabs
  6. White tailed deer- National Symbol of Costa Rica wildlife
  7. Snakes and vipers
  8. Birds of Costa Rica
  9. Flowers of Costa Rica
  10. Colorful carts of Costa Rica
  11. Costa Rican Rainforest mask or Boruca Masks

Leaf Cutter Ants- Nature’s farmers that grow Fungai

First time I saw these little ants carrying the leaves was on a zip lining trip in La Fortuna and someone pointed them out to me. I was amazed by these ants carrying as much 50 times their weight in leaves as if to prepare an amazing salad. I read about them after coming back to hotel and spent next couples of hikes actively looking for them. Next to the human society, leaf cutter ants have most complex society with caste system and are the best farmers after us.

Leafcutter ants don’t eat the leaves they carry but use leaves as their fertilizer to grow their fungal gardens. These ants act as true gardeners by providing the fungus with freshly cut leaves, protecting them from pests and molds, and clearing them of decayed material and garbage. In return, the fungus acts as a food source for the ants’ larvae. Ants are very sensitive to the needs of these fungi and change up the leaf if the Fungai don’t like it as a food source. This symbiotic relationship also benefits from a bacterium that grows on the ant’s bodies and secretes antimicrobials, which the ants use to protect their fungi. You can read more about these amazing insects here .

Leaf Cutter ants

Sloth and its symbiotic relationship with algae and moth

Most people who go to Costa Rica want to see sloths which are the national animal and symbol of Costa Rica. We were able to see Sloths in a few places both in La Fortuna and in the Parador resort at Manuel Antonio which had a resident sloth named Valentina that hung out by the pool on the mango tree with her baby.

Although pretty common in Costa Rica, Sloths are not easy to spot. We were able to see 3-toed sloths in La Fortuna area during daytime while we saw nocturnal 2 t0ed sloths in Manuel Antonio Park. We weren’t able to spot first few until the guides pointed out but after a week, we got pretty good at spotting them especially on certain tress where they inhabit. As a slow-moving animal, sloths have developed a good camouflage technique that makes them hard to find. Sloths have a specialized fur coat that is covered in tiny grooves, providing the perfect environment for green algae to grow. This green alga acts as a natural camouflage, allowing the sloth to blend seamlessly with the surrounding green leaves of rain forest. This camouflage not only helps sloths hide but also provides a source of nutrients as these sloths often lick their fur, eating the algae, which provides them with essential vitamins and minerals.

Hermit hummingbird and false bird of paradise/ Heliconia flower

One of my favorite memories from Costa Rica was waking up on day 1 in the rain forest bungalow and looking out of the window to see a hummingbird feeding on a flower. The Chachagua Rainforest hotel where we stayed had beautiful gardens and tons of hummingbirds but every morning, the one hummingbird came back to feed on the same flower. Until we went on hike to Rio Celeste and Naturalist guide explained relationship between the hummingbird and this particular flower, I finally understood the reason. 

The false bird of paradise is called Heliconia and Green hermit hummingbirds have a symbiotic relationship, and this relationship is a great example of the fine tuning of coevolution between plants and its pollinators. The green hermit hummingbirds have curved bill that mimics the shape of the flower of Heliconia. Only after being pollinated by these long-billed birds, the Heliconia plant begins to reproduce. The plant accepts pollen only from birds with bills that match the shape of its flowers. It seems like the long-billed birds and long-flowered plants evolved to fit each other. Isn’t nature full of surprises? You want to read more about this symbiotic relationship, you can check out this article.

Red eyed tree frog

Red eye tree frog is the most iconic symbol of Costa Rica and you will see on any books or items related to Costa Rica. I thought it would be easy to see these frogs as everyone posts beautiful pictures of them but our first night walk in La Fortuna, we didn’t see any red eyed tree frogs. I was determined to see them before we left Costa Rica and we did another night walk at the Parador nature resort. As soon as we reached the pond area, the guide said you are in luck as he can hear the mating call of the frog but after 30 minutes searching, we didn’t find any even though we knew they were close by but well hidden in the trees.

As much as you can easily recognize these frogs with their large red eyes and bright green skin, they are hard to spot. The bright green color of the skin easily blends with the surrounding and when frightened they close their eyes and perfectly blend on the green rain forest leaves and surface. The large red eyes of these frogs also help them to see in low light conditions. Additionally, the red eyes can help to startle predators and give these frogs a chance to escape. Our guide was finally able to spot one on our way back from the night walk and I was able to finally capture the picture of this iconic frog.

Halloween Crabs

These crabs go by various names including red land crab, white spot crab, moon crab etc and usually have some combination of red, orange, purple, black, and or blue. When every animal in rainforest is trying to blend with its environment and hide from predators, these crabs seem have taken opposite approach and gone as colorful as possible. As you walk through Manuel Antionio National Park or kayak in Mangroves, you will see hundreds of these crabs. When I asked guide why they are so brightly colored, I was told that the crabs have poor vision and bright colors is how they see each other. According to this article, these crabs are also ecosystem engineers and create habitats with deep dug borrows. “These burrows then serve as homes for a host of other creatures after the crab has moved on or become something’s dinner. They also participate in the nutrient cycle. They eat seeds, seedlings, and leaf matter, which they carry down to their burrows returning nutrients to the soil. Their diet affects their environment in another way. The seeds and seedlings that they decide to eat or not eat ultimately help to shape the plant populations in the areas where they live” (from https://guanacastewildlifemonitoring.com/)

White tailed deer- National Symbol of Costa Rica wildlife

One of the first animal we saw in Manuel Antonio National Park was a white-tailed deer and its baby and our guide spent 10 minutes talking about the animal. Living in Northeast and South of US, where these deer are everywhere and not so special and they usually they run into roads causing accidents. But sometimes, when you travel, you realize that your ordinary is someone’s extraordinary. In Costa Rica, these deer sightings are rare and it’s an accomplishment to see these animals. They are a protected species facing extinction and penalty for killing these animals is huge and our guide joking said that ” he would rather be caught selling drugs and other petty crimes than to kill this deer”. White tailed dee is declared national symbol, by President José María Figueres Olsen, on May 2nd, 1995.

Snakes and vipers

We were able to see couple of different kinds of venomous snakes in Costa Rica. We saw the eyelash viper both in Mistico hanging bridges as well as in Rio Celste hike. One of the most prominent features of the eyelash viper is its scales, which are responsible for its rough and bumpy appearance, providing a unique texture to its skin. The color of the snake usually shades of green or yellow and it seamlessly blends into its surrounding. Both times, the guides were able to spot them, but we struggled spot them even after we knew they were there. The name of these snakes comes from extensions of scales above the eyes resemble eyelashes.

Fer-de-lance – Another venomous snake we saw in Manuel Antonio ( scientifically known as Bothrops asper). Fer-de-lance means “spearhead” in French, this venomous pit viper is known for its triangular-shaped head and deadly venom and are masters of camouflage. Again, even after the guide pointed out, it took us a little while see this snake. On the flip side, the coral snake we saw on our hike to Rio Celeste is as bright as possible.

Birds of Costa Rica

We were able to see several types of birds both in La Fortuna and in Manuel Antonio. Humming birds and Toucans were abundant in Chachagua Nature resort that we stayed in La Fortuna. We saw couple of Scarlet Macaws in Manuel Antonio but weren’t able to capture their photo. One of the crown jewels of Costa Rican bird is the Quetzal, we didn’t get to see it, but we will see them in our next trip to Costa Rica.

Flowers of Costa Rica

Just like the birds, Costa Rica has abundant flowers of various colors and sizes including a variety of Orchids, Birds of Paradise, False Bird Paradise (Heliconia), and ornamental bananas. One of the most beautiful and best smelling flower/ plant I saw is the shampoo ginger which smells like ginger and is used for making shampoos as well as Ilan-Ilan that smelled like Channel No. 5 perfume.

Colorful carts of Costa Rica

When you travel in Costa Rica, you will see these bright colored carts displayed in parks, hotels, and miniature versions in gift and souvenir shops. These bright colored and intricate patterned carts are unique to Costa Rica and were essential to Costa Rica’s growth, enabling the transport of coffee from the mountains to the coasts for export. Costa Ricans improved the cart design using a solid construction based on Aztec wheels that helped them to get through unique landscape of Costa Rica. In 2005, UNESCO inscribed Costa Rican oxcarts onto its list of intangible cultural heritage, and these carts the country’s official symbol of labor.

Even though Ox Carts are no longer used in Costa Rica for transportation, instead of fading away, ox cart become a symbol of Costa Rica and a testament to the old way of doing things. The painted carts were symbol of economic status in their time and craftsman that made the carts started painting bright colors and intricate designs that included flowers, stars, faces, landscapes. Each town/area developed its own unique designs. Also, carts were added with bells and whistles, so each cart played a signature song whenever it moved. Today, Sarchí a small town near San Jose (a good stop on the way from La Fortuna to Manuel Antonio), is only place left that produces these colorful, hand-painted works of art. Eloy Alfaro, who founded the factory in 1923 in Sarchí and is operational till today and you can visit and see the factory in operation. (https://www.atlasobscura.com/articles/colorful-oxcarts-costa-rica)

Costa Rican Rainforest mask or Boruca Masks

One of my regrets after visiting Costa Rica is not buying one of these colorful masks made by Boruca community. The origin of these masks’ dates back to 500 years during the Spanish conquest of Costa Rica. These masks were created by Borucan indigenous people with the intent to scare the unwelcome Spinrads. These diablito masks or little devil masks were created as homage to the animal spirts that guided the tribe to successfully fight Spinrads. Usually carved in a single piece of Cedar or balsa wood, these intricate masks are carved and painted to represent the spirits, fierce animals, devils, and also images of the local flora and fauna. The carvers use a technique called relief carving that creates three dimensional images with unbelievable depth. There are 3 different kinds of mask – the ‘diablito’ or ‘devil’ mask are the traditional masks used for ceremonial purpose, ‘ecologica’, featuring animals and plants of the rainforest such as Toucan or sloth and are considered more modern and ‘combinados’, are the combination of both the ‘diablitos’ and the ‘ecologica’, as they represent the blending of the traditional and contemporary styles. (Check out here for more information). These masks can be bought in gift shops and other artisanal stores (not sure how authentic), but the authentic ones can be bought directly by Boruca Community or from this place in San Jose. The tradition and history behind these masks are amazing.

 

Monkey Business- Types of monkeys in Costa Rica and where to see them

If you love monkeys, Costa Rica is the place to see them. We were fortunate to see 3 out of the 4 kinds of monkeys you could see in CR.

There are 4 different species of monkeys you can see in Costa Rica.

  1. Capuchino monkey
  2. Howler monkeys
  3. Spider monkeys
  4. Squirrel monkeys
  5. Best places to see monkeys in Costa Rica

Capuchino monkey

Most common ones we saw are the white-faced cappuccino monkeys and our guide called them mafia monkey as they roam in groups and steal food and other items from people. These monkeys are aggressive and not afraid of people. Parador nature resort had a bunch of them that would hang out by the pool and come near rooms and take anything they can. People staying next to us had left their backpack out in the night, and these monkeys tore it open, and took the chips bag and opened a Tupper ware container and ate whatever was in it.

Howler monkeys

More than seeing these monkeys, you can’t escape their howl which sounds like a roar. We saw few these monkeys in Manuel Antonio but heard them pretty much every morning in the hotel. when we were at Manuel Antonio park it started raining, we heard bunch of angry howler monkeys and were told by the guide that they hate rain which led to teenager asking, ” then why do they live in rainforest where it rains everyday?”

Spider monkeys

We were lucky to see a family of spider monkeys hanging around in Mistico Hanging bridges and gave us show from jumping from tree to tree and showing off their agility. Our guide was able to hear these monkeys before spotting them as they make lot of noise on the tree branches, and it is good practice to pay attention to sounds as you go through rain forests as it is much better way to spot different animals. After 9 days in Costa Rica, I got better at spotting monkeys by paying attention to twigs breaking, rustling leaves and branches. Spider monkeys are one of the most agile species in Costa Rica and their name comes from the disproportionately long limbs and a long tail. We were able to take some good videos of these monkeys (Watch it full screen or pic-in-pic to see the whole video)

Spider Monkey

Squirrel monkeys

These are only type of monkeys we didn’t see in Costa Rica even though our hotel in Manuel Antonio and the national park had these monkeys but unlike the white-faced monkeys they weren’t roaming around in groups when we were there. These monkeys have very distinct type black facial mask and red-backed fur and pretty small compared to other monkeys found in Costa Rica.

Monkeys and Green rope way – One of things I noticed in the Manuel Antonio area and in the Parador hotel was the green ropes/bridges hanging from tree to tree. These are constructed for sloths and monkeys cross from tree to tree and to buildings without coming down to the road thus avoiding potential threats from cars, dogs, and other predators. Its quite neat to see and I caught a Cappachino money using one in the hotel

Monkey on Sky bridge

Best places to see monkeys in Costa Rica

Manuel Antonio National Park– This is park where you are guaranteed to see both monkeys and sloths. All four species are supposed to live this National park and we were able to see Howler and White-faced monkeys here. The Parador nature hotel in Manuel Antonio has abundance of these monkeys in their grounds and roam around the hotel. One of the guests was even able to see squirrel money in this hotel during our stay when it jumped on the balcony to get food as they were eating their lunch.

Corcovado National Park This is another national park best suited to see all 4 species of monkeys and 2 species of sloth. Hiring a guide would improve the experience.

Arenal volcano and mistico hanging bridges – We were able to see both spider monkeys and howler monkeys here.

Why so blue? Nature’s chemistry lab -Rio Celeste the blue river and waterfall of Costa Rica

Río Celeste (Sky-Blue River) in Tenorio National Park (Costa Rica), a river that forms from the mixing of two colorless or normal streams—Río Buenavista (Buenavista River) and Quebrada Agria (Sour Creek). The combined river has striking blue color that seems almost unnatural while the tributary rivers have no color at all. There are several theories as to why this river turns blue after the confluence including the legend that god dipped his pain brush here after painting sky blue. Unlike glacier fed lakes like Lake Moraine in Banff that have bright blue color due to fine particles of rock flour suspended in water, resulting from glacial erosion, Rio Celeste is not a glacial fed river.


El Teñidero-Dye point -Nature’s chemistry lab

The nerd in me was very happy when I found out why the 2 colorless rivers merge to form such brightly colored river. It’s pure chemistry! The last stop on the hike in Tenorio national park is called “El Teñidero” (dye point). The sky-blue color appears immediately after the dye point and the river maintains its bright blue coloration over a distance more than 14 km including at the waterfall Río Celeste.

The scientific explanation for this color change is that both rivers contain aluminosilicate particles, but the size and concentration of these particles are too small to scatter light to get the blue color on their own. Here is where science does its magic. Quebrada Agria or Sour creek as it is aptly called is fairly acidic (pH of 3.1), and Río Buenavista was rather neutral with a pH of 6.8-7. When the acidic and neutral waters of the two rivers meet, their aluminosilicate particles clump together, resulting in enough particle concentration and size to scatter light and the vivid blue color appears!

Other noteworthy points to stop on this hike are the laguna Azul and the borbollones as well as the view point to see the volcano. Laguna Azul is very peaceful, and we saw a turtle hanging out on a log here.

Borbollones or the boiling point reminds you that you are in an active volcano area and you smell the sulphur gases before you see the bubbling river.

Borbollones in Rio Celeste

Rio Celeste waterfall

The main attraction in this park is the Rio celeste waterfall and most people tend to turn back after seeing the waterfall but the hike from the waterfall to the end point is only 1 km and it is worth the hike.

The waterfall has an amazing blue color and you need to get down few steps before you can reach the viewpoint. We spent lot of time here appreciating the beautiful color as well as the setting in the middle of lush green rainforest. The contrast of colors is absolutely gorgeous.

Practical Information on how to get to Rio Celeste:

Rio Celeste opens at 8:30 am, but you can arrive at 8 am to get tickets. The park allows 1200 visitors per day and pre-purchasing the tickets is not possible. The latest admission to the park is 2 pm, and everyone has to exit by 4 pm. Here is a good blog on information about visiting the Rio Celeste.

Word of Caution : Water won’t have the bright blue turquoise color it is famous for after heavy rain. Check the weather and rainfall in the area before going. Some rain is normal for this area, and it pretty much rained every day when we visited.

We did a guided tour through Canoa Aventura in La Fortuna which included lunch at restaurant Tenory. This was a great restaurant with lots of vegetarian options and it is about 5 min from the entrance of the Tenorio Volcano national park. We saw bunch of animals including some venomous snakes and monekyes.

Sleeping under the Northern lights- A weeklong trip to Finland, the land of reindeers, sauna, and Santa Claus

It is good to feel small beneath the sparkling northern lights, small beside the mighty river. Nature is so close to us up here. My troubles and difficulties just shrivel up. I like being insignificant.

Asa Larsson

Finnish Lapland is a magical place that should be put on everyone’s bucket list. If you want to see unspoiled nature and artic wilderness, this is the place to appreciate it. Best time to see northern lights from October through April and I was told by people that work at the resort that March is the best time see northern lights. We did the entire trip without renting a car and managed to travel within Finland through public transportation. As usual with my blogs, if you just want to see the itinerary, please check here.

Our finnish adventure started with a wish from the kid for his 13th birthday that he wanted to see northern lights. I started planning to trip and wanted to go during December but quickly realized that there are 2 main reasons not to go in december- it is the high season and everything costs more, and days are really short especially around Dec 21st. We decided to change the trip to February break which turned out to be better time to visit especially if you want to see Northern lights

  1. Where to go in Finland:
  2. Top winter activities to do in Finland and where to do them
  3. What to wear
  4. Day 1 and 2 : Rovaniemi
  5. Day 3, 4, and 5 : Saariselkä and staying in glass igloos at Kakslauttanen Arctic Resort 
  6. How to get to Saariselkä or Lake Inari
  7. Snow activities at Kakslauttanen Arctic resort
  8. Day 6 and 7- Helsinki
  9. Final thoughts
  10. Further reading

Where to go in Finland:

There are several towns and cities you can visit based on what you want to do:

  • Helsinki– Capital city and good base for rest of the trip. If you have time, you can also visit Tallinn, capital of Estonia as day trip or 2 day trip.
  • Rovaniemi- Capital of Lapland and city in arctic circle. You can do all the winter activities in this city including northern light hunting, dog sledding, snowshoeing etc
  • Ivalo/ Lake Inari/ Saariselka : Ivalo is a small town and airport near Lake Inari (Inarijärvi) in Finish Lapland, an is about 1450 miles south of the North Pole. Saariselkä is few miles from Ivalo, year-round resort town.
  • Pyhä/Pyhätunturi – Pyhä is a true Lappish ski resort surrounded by Pyhä-Luosto National Park
  • Levi– Levi is a micro-city built around a ski resort in western Lapland. During the winter months, from mid-November to mid-May, Levi is Finland’s most popular ski resort, with a total of 44 slopes serviced by 28 lifts, 180 kilometres north of the Arctic Circle
  • Kemi– part of southern Lapland known as “Sea Lapland”. Kemi is located on the Gulf of Bothnia and is known for its beautiful natural surroundings and outdoor activities as well as the icebreaker boat tours.
  • Salla– is a small town located in the eastern part of Lapland and is known for its ski resorts and other outdoor recreation opportunities.
  • Oulu– As the biggest commercial and cultural hub in the region, Oulu is often called the Capital of Northern Scandinavia. It’s a vibrant city that holds over 700 events annually, including one-of-a-kind experiences such as the World Air Guitar Championships, Polar Bear Pitching, The Irish Festival of Oulu and Qstock music festival.

Top winter activities to do in Finland and where to do them

  • Northern light hunting: Finnish lapland is supposed to have northern lights 200 days of the year and you have pretty good chance of seeing them anywhere from Rovaniemi to Lake Inari and beyond. We saw them in Rovaniemi.
  • Huski Safari : Can be done in Rovaniemi, Ivalo/ Lake Inari/ Saariselka
  • Reindeer Safari : Rovaniemi, Saariselka
  • Snowmobiling : Rovaniemi, Saariselka
  • Ice fishing : Rovaniemi, Lake Inari
  • Sauna : Can be done pretty much anywhere in Finland
  • Santa Claus : Rovaniemi
  • Skiing and snowboarding : Pyha, Levi
  • Ice plunge /ride on an icebreaker boat : Kemi, Salla, Levi
  • Coffee/City vibes – Helsinki

What to wear

If you go during the peak winter months, you definitely need proper layers to do any outdoor activities. Most activities done through the tour operators and they provide snow shoes, snow suit, and gloves that will keep you warm and toasty. Check with the operators see what they provide so that you don’t buy ton of stuff you will only use during the visit. We bought thermal layers like this and this that kept us warm when we were walking around on our own. Good winter hat/beanie, gloves and a warm jacket like this were perfect to keep us warm.

Day 1 and 2 : Rovaniemi

After a long flight from US, we reached Rovaniemi around 4 PM and made it to our hotel –Santa’s hotel Santa Claus. We chose this hotel as it was in the middle of city center and close to restaurants and activities and also included breakfast in the price. We had booked a junior suite with Sauna in the room and we used this sauna every night. It was a good way to start our finnish experience.

Other good hotels : There are several options at various price point depending on your budget. We liked the Santa’s hotel which was middle of the range and restaurant on-site along with access to coffee houses and other restaurants.

Artic Tree house hotel : This is a high end hotel that provides great views and close to santa village. If you are looking for unique hotels, this is a good one to stay and hotel offers several activities that you can book through the concierge.

Hostel Café Koti : Budget friendly hotel in the city center with several options

Apukka Resort : If you want to stay in glass igloos, you can check out this hotel.

Since the hotel was near the city center, once we checked in, we decided to explore the area including the Lumberjack’s candle bridge and downtown including Lordi’s square, and restaurants. These are some of the restaurants and cafes we tried during our 2 day stay in the city center and food was really good in all the places we ate.

Pancho Villa Rovaniemi- Good Mexican food and don’t need reservation

Rang Mahal Indian Restaurant- Pretty decent Indian food.

Massimo- Great pizza place and my first experience drinking the  long drink (in Finnish lonkero) – a very popular mixed drink made from gin and a mixer, traditionally grapefruit soda.

Cafe & Bar 21 – Great coffee

Korundi Kitchen & Café : Another great coffee place

Day 2 : We started the day with a breakfast at the hotel and decided to take a cab to Santa’s village. This place is close to airport and costs about 20-30 euros for the cab from city center. Cabs in Finland are expensive and public transport seems to best way to reach various places. You can also take public transportation and route 8 goes from city center to Santa village. It will take about 3-4 hours to do the whole thing and you can get lunch before heading back to city center. February was not very busy season to see Santa and there were no long lines for any activity.

Photo Courtesy : Photo of a photo at Santa’s village

Must do things at Santa village:

  • Visit Santa Claus– One of the best Santa’s I have ever visited. He was very personable and chatted with us for a while. Extra fee for taking photos with Santa and you can get either digital or physical copy of the photo
  • Santa’s post office-can mail post card to anyone at any time of the year. You can put into either send now or send next christmas mailbox
  • Christmas House Safaris and Reindeer Farm– Walk around and enjoy the winter wonderland and can go on reindeer safari
  • Arctic circle– take photos while crossing artic circle
  • Visit Roosevelt’s house– is the first building in the Rovaniemi Arctic Circle area. It was erected in the summer of 1950 in honor of Eleanor Roosevelt’s visit.

Day 1 afternoon and evening : We spent the afternoon at Arktikum a science centre and museum that lets you experience northern nature, culture, and history up close and learn all about northern lights.

Northern lights hunting by minivan: This was the event all of us looking forward to and I had booked the trip through Nordic adventure . Around dinner time, it started raining/snowing and when the diver came to pick us up from the hotel, he said our chances of seeing northern lights is very minimal. The tour operator said we can move the tour to next day but since we were going to Saariselka next day we decided to take a chance and see what we get.

Pro-tip- Find out from your tour operator if they rent snow shoes and suit. None of us on the northern light tour had proper cloths and shoes and we froze our butt off. Some times, the hotels also rent out snow boots and they make a huge difference when you are standing for couple of hours on a frozen lake waiting for Northern lights to show

After driving for about 20-25 min from the city, we stopped at a lake. Rain/Snow had slowed down and waiting about 30 min, stars started appearing giving us the hope that we might see Northern light. The guide, Gale started fire and heated up some mulled wine and sausages to keep us warm, but our toes were getting frozen. There were 7 of us on this tour and we took turns going back to the van to keep ourselves warm. Around 10 PM, after standing around for an hour, a white cloudy thing appeared on the horizon and Gale said that we are in luck. Slowly the white cloudy thing started turning green and for next hour and half, we saw one of the most incredible displays of northern lights. We were spellbound and speechless at the magnificent lights. None of us had figured out how to take pictures using our iphones but the tour included photos that the guide took using professional setup. This worked out perfectly as we could enjoy the lights without having to take photos. If you want to take photos of northern lights, please check this blog. If you want to check your chances of seeing northern lights, the aurora pro app works really well. There are few other apps you can use and more details on these apps can be found here.

Rovenomi is great place to not only see northern lights but to do other activities such as snow mobile rides, husky and reindeer safari, and other winter activities. There is also a snow/ice hotel you can visit and have dinner. We decided to do most of these activities at our next stop in Saariselka and stay only 2 days in Rovaniemi which was perfect way to start our finnish adventure. If you want to book any other activities, there are several options on getyourguide or viator. Nordic adventures also offer a lot of these activities and we had really had a great time on aurora hunting with them.

Day 3, 4, and 5 : Saariselkä and staying in glass igloos at Kakslauttanen Arctic Resort 

One of the things we were looking forward to when we planned our trip is our stay in a glass igloo. There are several hotels that have glass igloos, and we chose Kakslauttanen Arctic Resort which pioneered the glass igloo concept. Kakslauttanen is a good option, albeit an expensive one, but the reason we chose them was that they offer several activities including reindeer safari, and husky safari. If you plan to stay here in December, you can also meet Santa and do other activities related to Christmas. Since we stayed in February, we didn’t get to see Santa. There are several options for rooms at this resort and for details on the resort, check out this blog which helped me to plan our stay. We decided to stay in 2 different rooms to get the full experience. First 2 days of the stay we stayed in Kilo glass igloo and for 1 night we stayed in the glass igloo.

Kelo glass igloo:We found these igloos to be the best of both world with comfort of the log cabin with glass igloo master bedroom. This version of the room sleeps up to 6 people and for 3 of us this was really good accommodation and came with kitchenette, fireplace, and of course ensuite sauna.

Glass igloo : Depending on whether you book small or large igloo, it can fit 2 or 3 to 4 people. We chose the one that fits 4 people and it had a small bathroom and toilet in the room. The smaller version may not have a bathroom and common shared bathroom in the main building can be used.

There are several other options at the resort including log cabins to luxury gold-digger cabin and you can chose the one based on your requirement and budget. All in all, it was great experience to stay in the resort and other great thing is that rooms come equipped with Northern light alarm in case northern lights appear in the night.

How to get to Saariselkä or Lake Inari

There are several ways to get to Lake Inari or Saariselka hotels. Easiest way is to fly to Ivalo airport and take a cab or ask the hotel to pick you up from the airport. Since there were no direct flights from Rovaniemi to Ivalo airport, we took bus. On our return trip, we directly flew from Ivalo to Helsinki airport. The bus journey takes about 3 hours and more details can be found here and you can directly buy the tickets from the bus operator on-line or you can buy the tickets from the driver on the bus. For timetables and tciket purchase, check out the website of Matkahuolto, a Finnish company that organizes bus trips nationwide. We got dropped off at the east village entrance of the Kakslauttanen resort, but we were supposed to be at West village. Thankfully there were couple of people at the reception and were able to arrange a van to transport us to the resort. The bus driver was also very helpful and called hotels to get transportation to few people on the bus that got dropped off the entrance.

Pro-tip – The bus drops you off at the entrance of your hotel and it stops at various hotels in Saariselkä area. Some hotels are long-way from the entrance (1-2 km) and it would good to have hotel send a van/ transportation to pick you up from the entrance so that you don’t have to drag your luggage through snow

Snow activities at Kakslauttanen Arctic resort

Lapland is great place to do snow activities and we booked all our activities through Kakslauttanen resort and combined most activities with Northern light hunting. Even if we didn’t see Northern lights, we still enjoyed the husky safari, snowmobile ride and reindeer safari. Check here for the list of all the activities organized by resort. We did Aurora hunting with snowmobiles, Husky Safari (favorite of the teenager as he got to drive his own husky sled), Reindeer safari, and a whole day trip to Lake Inari with ice fishing and visit to Sami museum.

Lake Inari visit: This was our favorite activity at the resort. We were picked up from the resort at 8AM and were driven to Lake Inari. The drive itself is beautiful and very serene. After we changed into out winter suites, we drove our own snow mobiles to Lake inari. It an exhilarating ride with typical Lapland views with wild reindeers, and snow-covered trees. Once we reached lake Inari, our guide demonstrated making hole in the ice to catch the fish and we all dug our own holes and sat for few hours without any luck. In the meantime, our guide prepared lunch on an open fire and heated up tea to warm us up.

Wilderness church of Lake Pielpajärvi -Built in 1760, after the Christianization of the Sami people, this church was built on the site of an old Sami winter village. It is one of the oldest buildings in northern Lapland. It was in use until the end of the 19th century and nowadays puts on special services during Easter and Midsummer. The church is also a popular site for weddings. In the summertime, Pielpajärvi is only accessible by foot along a 5 km hiking path or by boat from Pielpavuono pier in Lake Inarijärvi. The easiest way to reach the church is to hike from Inari village. The starting point of the trail is the Sarviniementie parking area, which is about 3km northeast of the Siida museum. From the parking area it’s about a 5 km hike through the woods to the church (route is marked with occasional signposts and more frequent red stakes). An alternative is to the Inari Lake cruise where the catamaran can leave you at Pielpavuono which is about two kilometers from the church and you can walk along the path from there (the route is also marked with red stakes). In the wintertime it can be reached by skiing and snowmobile, and we chose snowmobile as our option. The church is always open and can be visited free of cost.

Siida’s open air museum– If you are in Lake Inari, you should definitely take time to visit to Siida’s open air museum to  understand the cultural and architectural heritage , as well as livelihoods of the Sámi in Finland. This museum tells story of Inari and Sami in the last 10,000 years and gives information about Sami way of life including, evolution of transportation method from reindeer to snow scooters and more. We also got to see other Sami traditions including their food habits, hunting practices, and ingenuity of Sami people living in harmony with nature. Check here for the open times and other information.

Day 6 and 7- Helsinki

We started the tour of Helsinki with a walking tour and it was a good way to get the lay of the land and see some key sights. We booked one through getyourguide and similar ones can be found in viator too. We met our guide at Senate square and covered the following places in about 3 hours on foot. It was really informative and we enjoyed visiting the city with the local person who had lived in the city for more than 20 years.

Senate Square– Senate Square is the main square of Helsinki and is surrounded by buildings on the four sides of the square representing the four powers of the state as conceived during 17th century : senate, church, university and commerce. The Square itself is empty except for a statue of Tsar Alexander II in the middle. The main structure that dominates the square is the Helsinki Cathedral.

Helsinki Cathedral– Designed by Carl Ludvig Engel, this cathedral is the landmark and symbol of Helsinki. Also known as St. Nicholas Church and Great Cathedral, it was completed in 1852 and have sculptures of 12 apostles on the roof that guard the city. The church is build in the shape of the greek cross and has six corinthian pillars in the front. The outside wall is decorated with scenes from life of christ and above the main there is an hebrew inscription of Jahave (God). For more information on the architecture and opening hours, check here

Uspenskin Cathedral– Built in 1868, this church is considered as the largest cathedral in Western Europe. This Cathedral represents Russian impact on Finland. The cathedral was designed by the Russian church architect Aleksei M. Gornostaje and it is built to represent Slavonic architecture with golden cupolas and redbrick facade. It’s a prominent sight as you walk around the city center, as it sits on a hilltop overlooking the ocean and its 13 towers with their gilded spires are eye-catching. 12 of the towers stand for the 12 apostles and one for Jesus and interior is very splendidly furnished with columns made of solid granite support the main dome, which is designed like a starry sky. Numerous colorful mosaics decorate the interior walls along with icons, religious paintings and gilded sacraments.

Kauppatori or the market square – Close to Helsinki city hall and President’s palace, is the outdoor market on the waterfront, with lots of food vendors (mostly selling various seafood–and sides like veggies and potatoes), lots of fresh produce (everything looked delicious), and some souvenir stalls. It is great place to spend some time enjoying finnish food.

Old Market Hall– Open since 1889, this old food hall or market hall is close to market square and sells all sorts of cheese, fish, vegetables, fruits, cakes and pastry. There are some cafes and restaurants too and it is also great place to try some authentic finish dishes.

Havis Amanda – A fountain and statue designed by sculptor Ville Vallgren is located in the market square and symbolise the rebirth of Helsinki and is beloved pieces of art in Helsinki. Havis Amanda is a mermaid who stands on seaweed as she rises from the water with four fish spouting water at her feet. She is surrounded by four sea lions and is depicted leaning backwards as if to say goodbye to her element. Vallgren’s intention was to symbolize the rebirth of Helsinki. Vallgren himself called the work simply Merenneito, or The Mermaid in English, but it quickly started to earn nicknames. The Finland-Swedish newspapers dubbed it Havis Amanda and the Finnish Haaviston Manta or simply Manta. Every year on Vappu, Manta serves as a center for the celebrations. Students of the local universities put a cap on the statue in an elaborate ceremony. For many it is a “must see” event (Source: https://www.gpsmycity.com/attractions/havis-amanda-33017.html)

Other places to visit in Helsinki

Ekbrg 1852café Ekberg is the oldest bakery, patisserie and café in Finland, founded in 1852.

Sea Fortress Suomenlinnahttps://www.suomenlinna.fi/en/ Suomenlinna is an 18th-century sea fortress and nature area with centuries-old artillery and defensive walls, spread across 6 linked islands. There are walking trails that take you to popular sights like the King’s Gate drawbridge and Suomenlinna Museum. There is also a brewery and several waterside restaurants.

Private guided tours of the fortress, in several languages, can be booked in advance (guidebooking@suomenlinnatours.com). Public guided tours in English are announced in the events calendar on the Suomenlinna webpages. The fortress is easily accessed all year by public transport (HSL) ferry from the Market Square (daily) or the HSL maintenance ferry from Katajanokka (on weekdays). The travelling time is approx. 15minutes (Source: my Helsinki)

Sibelius Monument– This a memorial seaside park constructed honor Finnish Composer Sibelius. The main attraction is the abstract monument called Passio Musicae, was created by pioneering artist Eila Hiltunen and is actually a kinetic, musical sculpture—a bundle of 600 steel tubes that capture the wind like a pipe organ.

Day Trip to Tallinn, Estonia from Helsinki– Another popular option from Helsinki is to take a ferry ride to Tallinn, Estonia as day trip or two-day trip. We didn’t do this but there are several tours available that you can take such as this and this

Final thoughts

Finland is a great place to visit and experience true arctic wilderness and magic of Christmas during winter. To this day, my family considers this as the best trip we have taken together.

Further reading

Checking off Bucket list- 7-day trip to Egypt Itinerary- Planning guide

Steps for Egypt trip planning:

  • Where: Cairo, Aswan, and Luxor
  • When: High season (cooler season) October to April. May is a shoulder season.
  • How many days: Minimum 6 full days but will be a busy schedule. Need at least 2 days in each place and travel time between the cities. 7-8 days would be ideal.
  • How: Book with a travel group or self-guided- Land or Nile cruise
  • Budget: $1,500-$2,500 per person for 6-7 days (Including flight, hotel, food, and transportation from US. Ave flight- $800-$1,500 per person, Hotels-$300-$ 600 per night, Nile cruise- $800-$1500 ave per person for 4 days (Based on April 2023 Cost))
  • Other details: Visa for Egypt (Check here for details)

Must visit places :

  • Egyptian Museum
  • Pyramids of Giza
  • Luxor temple
  • Karnak temple
  • Valley of kings
  • Hatshepsut temple
  • Edfu temple
  • Kom Ombu temple
  • Aswan Philae temple
  • Abu Simble
  • Boat/Faluka ride in Aswan

Good to do:

  • Easting Koshary in Cario
  • Dinner cruise
  • Camel ride
  • Hot air balloon ride in Luxor
  • Eating Nubian food in Aswan (Hot pot)
  • Unfinished Obelisk in Aswan
  • Visiting Nubian Village
  • Dandera temple
  • Alendria
  • Memphis

Download the itinerary here