Sarnath- Cradle of Buddhism

The root of suffering is attachment.

Buddha

Sarnath, a small town located 10Km outside of Varanasi in India, is considered to be one of the most sacred places for Buddhist pilgrims. After attaining enlightenment in Bodhi Gaya (which is in present day Bihar), Buddha travelled to Varanasi and gave his first sermon to five of his followers, established Sangha (Buddhist monastic community) and set the wheel of Dharma in motion. Sarnath gained more prominence during 3rd century BC when king Ashoka erected several Stupas and monastic complexes and helped to spread Buddhism in India and Southeast Asia.

Buddhist stupas were originally built to house the earthly remains of Buddha and his associates and are almost invariably found at sites sacred to Buddhism. According to world history org, ” A Stupa (literally “heap” or “pile”) is a shrine containing the remains of a holy person and/or artifacts (relics) associated with them, originating in India prior to the 5th century BCE as tombs of holy men and evolving afterwards into sacred sites dedicated to the Buddha (l. c. 563 – c. 483 BCE).Later, stupas were also raised to honor Buddhist arhats (saints), bodhisattvas (enlightened ones), other saintly figures, or local deities”.

A stupa is a hemispherical structure, with a spire at the top, situated on a base that varies in shape and size and is usually surrounded by a walkway for visitors. The Dhamekh Stupa in Saranath is believed to have been built during the reign of Emperor Ashoka, stands at 33.35 meters in height and is adorned with intricately carved stone panels depicting scenes from Buddha’s life and teachings. Eight niches are provided in the eight direction which are assumed to contain images of Buddha.

It is very common to see Buddhist pilgrims meditating and praying around this area.

King Ashoka and Lion Capital-the national emblem of India

Ashoka was the third emperor of Maurya dynasty and ruled between 279-232 BC. After witnessing the death and carnage caused by his army in the war of Kalinga, Ashoka decided to adapt the teachings of Buddha and spread the four noble truths of Buddhism far and wide. One of the ways King Ashoka decided to spread the noble truth of Buddhism is through erecting pillars that are 40-50 ft tall and with edicts/proclamations written on them. The pillars cut from two different types of stone—one for the shaft and another for the capital. The shaft was almost always cut from a single piece of stone. The capital or the top part of the pillar varies and usually have symbol depicting Buddhism or its philosophy.

Lotus and lion-Symbolism associated with Ashoka Pillar found at Sarnath.

Ashoka Pillar found in Sarnath -excavation photo

One of the most famous Ashoka Pillar is the one found at Sarnath. You can still see the pillar remains where it was originally located while the Capital of the pillar is in display at the museum next door. The symbols from the Capital that was found in Sarnath was adopted as the national emblem of India in 1950 when India became a republic. It is depicted on the one rupee note and the two rupee Indian coin. The Capital of the Ashoka pillar found in Saranath follows the typical style of the Ashoka pillar with a shaft and capital that is made of 3 parts-an inverted lotus flower, base with 4 animals carved in-between wheels , and 4 lions sitting on the top.

The lotus flower usually depicts Buddhist doctrine and is the most common symbol of Buddhism. Buddhism teaches that human life is like the “lotus flower” and the “muddy water” the harsh realities of everyday life. Lotus flower blooms in muddy water and its petals remain unblemished implying that Buddhist practitioner rises above despite the challenges of daily life and moving towards the light of wisdom. The Sarnath Ashoka Pillar lion capital has four lions on the top of the drum each facing in the four cardinal directions. Their mouths are open, roaring or spreading the dharma, the Four Noble Truths, across the land.

On the drum of the Capital, there are four circular wheels in the middle is a form of Buddhist Dharma Chakra (also known as the Ashok Chakra). The 24 spokes of the Chakra represent the number of hours in a day. The spokes signify moving forward in life and thus one avoids stagnation of the mind. The four animals depicted alternatively between the chakras are regarded as the guardians of four directions – the lion for the north, the elephant for the east, the horse for the south and the bull for the west. In some Buddhist texts, all these animals have been referred to as symbols for Buddha himself and may be deduced as him carrying forward the tenets of Dharma. In yet another interpretation, these four animals represents the different stages of Lord Buddha’s life. (https://www.culturalindia.net/national-symbols/national-emblem.html)

Other noteworthy things to see around Sarnath:

Apart from the archeological site and the museum, there is a beautiful Thai temple with a large standing buddha statue set in a beautiful garden. There are scenes depicting first sermon of Buddha as well as a laughing buddha statue. This place is definitely worth stopping by even for few minutes.

Final thoughts

Saranath is a great place to add to your visit when you are in Varanasi and definitely worth visiting both for historical significance as well as religious significance.

Princess dairies -A review of 3 day stay Brijrama palace on Darbhanga Ghat in Varanasi

  1. Brijrama Palace on Darbhanga Ghat
  2. How to get to Brijrama palace:
  3. Architecture and interiors of Birjrama palace :
  4. Accommodation Options :
  5. Dining at Birjrama place:
  6. Activities :
  7. Final thoughts

Brijrama Palace on Darbhanga Ghat

Darbhanga ghat holds special place in Hindu mythology as the legend says that Lord Rama bathed here in the sacred waters of Ganges. The Ghat is dominated by stunning palace that was built in 18th century in Rajput and Mughal style architecture. Later in 20th century, the palace was bought over by Maharaja of Darbhanga and fort underwent extensive renovations, including the installation of South Asia’s first elevator. Today this palace is converted into Birjrama palace hotel by Ganges which seamlessly blends heritage and luxury.

How to get to Brijrama palace:

The unique location of Birjrama palace on Darbhanga Ghat provides unique opportunity to get to your hotel by boat. Even though the palace is located very centrally in the heart of Varanasi, close to all main attractions, you can’t reach this place by car. Since the palace is located in Bengali tola surrounded by narrow streets or galies, the best way to reach the palace is by boat. The hotel has multiple boats that can take you to various places within Varanasi, thus avoiding the traffic and also giving you the best view of Varanasi Ghats. The boat rides are free as part of the stay and you can use the boats as needed. We used this service multiple times during our stay including to attend Ganga Aarti, and go to Assi Ghat and surrounding area.

Architecture and interiors of Birjrama palace :

In order to reach the hotel from the ghat, you need to climb about 20 steps and get it to the elevator. You are greeted by a priest who blesses you and hands you flowers and blessings. You enter the elevator which is the first elevator in south east Asia. As you get out of the elevator, you are greeted by ornate sitting room and beautiful view of Ganges from first floor.

The hotel has 3 floors each with its own balcony/sitting area with breathtaking views of Ganga. We were on 3rd floor and in my opinion, it has the best views and the 3rd floor balcony where they have Yoga classes every morning and high-tea in the evening. We spent every morning watching sunrise over Ganges and enjoying the morning bustle of the ghats.

Walking through the palace transports you back to the gilded era with ornate designs on the walls, beautiful sculptures, and spacious court yards. The hotel has done a great job of decorating the palace with its history in mind.

Accommodation Options :

There are 32 rooms in Brijrama palace with several types of rooms:

-Varuna Burj Suite- only 1 suite and it is on 2nd floor with its own entrance. This room boasts 180 view of the river and city and probably one of the most expensive rooms in the palace. We tried to book it but it was sold out for the time we were in Varanasi. It sleeps 3-4 people

– Maharaja Suite- there are 3 suites available and are on 1st floor and sleeps 2-4 people

– Vasundara- 6 available rooms and sleeps 2

– Dhanurdhara- 8 available rooms thar sleeps 2

-Nadidhara room- 14 available rooms that sleeps 2

We stayed in the Dhanurdhara room and it was perfect for 2 people. It opens into a well lit corridor that is next to 3rd floor balcony. We absolutely loved the room and the location of the room

Dining at Birjrama place:

There are 2 dining rooms in Brijrama palace but when we stayed there only Darbhanga dining room was open and it serves only vegetarian food( Because of the location of the hotel on the Ganga River, hotel doesn’t serve meat or alcohol). Breakfast is included the price and it is severed as a buffet with both international and Indian dishes. You can get made to order omelettes for breakfast along with toast, donuts etc. Both north and South Indian breakfast items such as made to order dosa, fresh jelebi as well as kachori are available everyday for breakfast. We are most of the lunch and dinner at the restaurant but they are A la carte and pretty decent. We found found to be lacking spiciness but overall of good quality. For one afternoon, we ordered the Thali, which is a 5 course meal with soup, appetizer( 3 kinds), main meal, a drink, and 3 different desserts. The meal was huge and we struggled to finish it

Activities :

There are several activities are provided as a complimentary service including High tea every evening. This was our favorite activity which included along with Indian Chai served in clay pot, thandai ( specialty of Varanasi), and pan making session.

Every morning, you wake up to the sound of flute playing from the center court yard and every evening there was Kathi’s dance performance at the bada angan to showcase local artists and talent. You can get complementary henna by a local artist every afternoon too. Every evening, boat leaves from the ghat to the Ganga Aarti ceremony and you can watch the program sitting in the boat.

Final thoughts

Staying at Brijrama palace is great experience and we enjoyed every minute of it. We were impressed by the service and authenticity of the staff as well as luxury and heritage of the place. More than anything else, location is absolutely stunning and we took too many photos of sunrise. Only con we found was that it was hard to leave the place and go out do anything else as we were too comfortable in our serene palace.

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