Tag: Travel

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Tales from Balkan- Top 12 things to do in Sarajevo

I didn’t expect to love Sarajevo as much as I did but I fell in love with this city. We spent last 2 days of our Balkan Itinerary in Sarajevo before flying home. We stayed at President hotel which is right in the center of the town at the edge of old market and walkable distance to all the main attractions in Sarajevo. We took “food and history” walking tour of the old town and enjoyed some local cuisine along with the history of the town.

  1.  Sebilj Fountain- Symbol of Sarajevo
  2. Gazi Husrev Bey’s Bezistan (covered bazaar) and Tašlihan-stone inn
  3. Morića Han
  4. Gazi Husrev-beg ‘Beys’ Mosque
  5. Latin Bridge and World war I
  6. East meets West sign
  7. Mount Trebevic and Bobsled track
  8. Sunset at Yellow fortress
  9. Old Bazar and copper Street
  10. Tunnel of Hope
  11. Skakavac waterfalls and MTB
  12. Park Bosanski Stećak i Zastava- Park with 7 flags
  13. Final thoughts

 Sebilj Fountain- Symbol of Sarajevo

You can’t walk through old town Sarajevo without seeing the wooden water fountain known as Sebilj. The locals call this place as pigeon square, and it is used as meeting spot. Sebilj meaning a place where water is given is and intended to provide free water to travelers and locals stood as a symbol of hospitality. It originally built in 1753 in Otteman -style by Mehmed Pasha Kukavica, and was relocated to current location by Austrian architect Alexander Wittek in 1891. According to local legend “Whoever drinks water from any of Sarajevo’s fountains and spouts will come to Sarajevo”.

Gazi Husrev Bey’s Bezistan (covered bazaar) and Tašlihan-stone inn

Located together, the Bezistan and Tašlihan were built in 1540 and 1543, funded by the Ottoman Governor, Gazi Husrev Bey.

During the Ottoman era, Bezistan housed textile shops, while the outdoor shops on Gazi Husrev Bey Street belonged to the metalworkers’ čaršija, where gold and silver jewelry were made and sold. The bazaar has four entrances, two from Gazi Husrev Bey’s Street, one on Ferhadija, and another on Zelenih beretki.

Tašlihan was one of three caravanserais in Sarajevo, providing accommodation for travelers and horses. Caravanserais were large fort-like structures that could accommodate entire caravans, including pack horses and merchants. They typically had one entrance, which was locked at night. The open courtyard was used for loading and unloading goods, often paved with cobblestones, and included a well or fountain.

Morića Han

We stopped at Morića Han during our food tour and enjoyed Bosnian coffee and sweets. It’s a beautiful place to relax, drink coffee, and watch people. The inn was built in the heart of Baščaršija between the 16th and 17th centuries as part of an endowment established by Gazi Husrev Bey. The inn’s sleeping quarters could accommodate a caravan with 300 travelers and 70 horses. The room of the innkeeper was right above the main entrance, and the ground level was used for horses and goods. Upstairs, there were rooms for the travelers and a large coffeehouse.

The inn was also a gathering place for the Sarajevo elite and artisans, and its coffeehouse is even mentioned in sevdalinka lyrics. Morića Han is named after Mustafa Aga Morić, son of Ibrahim Aga, one of the famous Morić brothers. Today, Morića Han is home to a few cafés and shops, as well as a restaurant serving traditional Bosnian food.

Gazi Husrev-beg ‘Beys’ Mosque

Huzrev-Beg bey, a prominent figure in the Ottoman Empire, held the position of governor (sanjak-bey) of the Sanjak of Bosnia and made significant contributions to the cultural and commercial advancements in the city. His influence extended to the construction of mosques, schools, markets, administrative facilities, and public baths, shaping the early development of the region. One of his enduring legacies is the Gazi Husrev-beg Mosque, an architectural marvel completed in the 16th century, characterized by exquisite Ottoman design. Even today, this mosque stands as one of the largest in Bosnia and Herzegovina.

The Gazi Husrev-beg Mosque has witnessed remarkable historical milestones, including being the first mosque in the world to be electrified in 1898. The interior of the mosque is adorned with intricate wooden panels on the dome and adorned with captivating decorative paintings, offering a glimpse into its rich artistic heritage. Despite enduring significant damage during the siege of Sarajevo, extensive reconstruction efforts have preserved its original style, albeit altered from its former grandeur. It remains an enduring symbol of cultural and architectural significance.

  • Gazi Bev Mosque

This is an active mosque and visitors are not allowed during prayer times. The exterior of the mosque features several tombs, including that of Gazi Husrev Beg himself, along with the resting places of other influential early residents of the city. Furthermore, the adjacent decorative garden and school complex (madrassa) offer additional insights into the historical significance of the area. The madrassa houses a small museum that sheds light on Huzrev-Beg’s life and his pivotal role in the city’s development, providing visitors with a deeper understanding of this remarkable historical figure and the era in which he lived.

Do not forget to check Sahat kula right next to the Hazi beg mosque. To know more about this clock tower, check out this blog post

Latin Bridge and World war I

The Latin Bridge is not only a beautiful Ottoman-era bridge over the Miljacka River in Sarajevo, but also a place of immense historical significance. It was at this very location that the Archduke Franz Ferdinand of Austria and his wife, Sophie, were tragically assassinated on June 28, 1914. This event, carried out by Gavrilo Princip, a Bosnian Serb nationalist, is widely recognized as the catalyst that triggered the outbreak of World War I, leading to a chain of events that would change the course of history.

Originally built in the 16th century, the bridge got its name “Latin Bridge” because it connected the right bank of the Miljacka with the Catholic quarter of the city, known as “Latinluk”. During the Yugoslav era, it was renamed “Princip’s Bridge” in honor of Gavrilo Princip. Standing on the Latin Bridge today, one can’t help but feel the weight of the events that transpired here and the impact they had on the world. It serves as a somber reminder of the power of historical events and the influence they continue to have on our lives.

East meets West sign

In Sarajevo, the “East Meets West” sign is located on the main pedestrian street, Ferhadija. This spot serves not only as a literal marker but also as a symbolic representation of the diverse cultural tapestry that characterizes this remarkable city. Here, you can visually experience the profound cultural transition between the eastern influences of the Ottoman Empire and the western styles introduced during the Austro-Hungarian period.

When you stand at this spot and look westward, you’ll encounter a bustling scene filled with modern, western-style architecture and contemporary shops. This area reflects a lifestyle that embraces modernity and is characterized by sleek storefronts, cafes, and vibrant urban life.

Turning to face east, you’ll be greeted by the enchanting sights of the old Ottoman bazaar, a place steeped in history and tradition. This section of the city showcases its mosques with towering minarets including Gazi Bev Mosque, ornamental architecture, and the captivating sights and sounds of bustling oriental shops serving coffee and selling copper stuff. This vibrant marketplace bursts with life, evoking the rich history and culture that have coexisted and evolved through centuries in this extraordinary city.

Mount Trebevic and Bobsled track

Mount Trebević, situated near Sarajevo in central Bosnia and Herzegovina, rises to 1,627 meters and is part of the Dinaric Alps. It is celebrated for its natural beauty and outdoor activities such as hiking, climbing, mountain biking, and skiing. The mountain was significant during the 1984 Winter Olympics, hosting events like bobsledding, and is a protected area that conserves its rich biodiversity. A key attraction is the Trebević Cable Car, which offers spectacular views of Sarajevo. Additionally, the area features notable quartz and calcite crystal deposits, some displayed in the National Museum of Bosnia and Herzegovina.

Sarajevo Cable Car

The Sarajevo cable car, connecting the Old Town with Trebević mountain, opened on May 3, 1959, initially serving 400 passengers per hour. It fell into disrepair over the years and was destroyed during the Bosnian War (1992-1995). After reconstruction in 2017-2018, it reopened on April 6, 2018, featuring 33 modern gondolas that transport 1,200 passengers per hour, with a journey time of about 9 minutes. The views from the gondola are spectacular and we took the cable car up the mountain but walked down using the bob sled track.

BobSled track

Trebević hosted bobsleigh and luge events during the XIV Winter Olympic Games in Sarajevo in 1984. After being awarded the Olympics in 1977, the construction of a bobsleigh and luge track began in 1981 and was completed in 1982 at a cost of 5.5 million Yugoslav dinars. The events attracted significant crowds, with 20,000 spectators at the luge and 30,000 at the bobsled competitions. Following the Olympics, the track was used for World Cup events until the outbreak of the Yugoslav wars in 1991, which severely damaged the track as it was repurposed for military use. Today, it has become a canvas for graffiti artists and it is fun to walk down this track with amazing views of Sarajevo and very interesting graffities and it took us about 90 min walk down.

Sunset at Yellow fortress

Yellow Fortress offers stunning views of Sarajevo and is a perfect spot to watch the sunset. Located on the Jekovac cliff, also known as Jekovačka tabija, it is part of the old town’s defensive ramparts. The climb to the fort provides a unique experience with panoramic views and sounds. Built in 1809 from rough stone, it has seven exterior faces that are 10 meters high, with the north side reaching 27.5 meters. There are stairs and a building for soldiers on the north side, while the southwest side features a Muslim cemetery.

Old Bazar and copper Street

Sarajevo features its own Coppersmith Street in the old bazaar, known as Kazandžiluk, which is one of the oldest streets in Baščaršija. Here, visitors can find traditional handmade copper items such as coffee pots, tea sets, grinders, and lamps, as well as antiques from the past. A section of the shop serves as a museum dedicated to Ottoman Sarajevo. Kazandžiluk has existed since the 16th century, originally established as a center for crafts and trade.

Tunnel of Hope

From July 1993 to February 1996, the Sarajevo War Tunnel served as the sole connection between besieged Sarajevo and the outside world. It took over six months to construct the 800-meter-long tunnel using basic tools, with light provided by homemade “war candles.” Completed on July 30, 1993, the tunnel restored access to essential resources like phone lines, food, and electricity. After the war, 20 meters of the tunnel were preserved as part of a museum showcasing artifacts from the Siege of Sarajevo, which was the longest siege in modern history.

Skakavac waterfalls and MTB

On day 2 of our stay in Sarajevo, our group decided to split up and some of us went to Mount Trebević and bob sled track while others decided to be more adventurous and did Mountain biking up to Skakavac waterfalls using this tour.

Skakavac waterfalls is located about 12 kilometers northeast of Sarajevo, above the village of Nahorevo and it is one of the tallest in the Balkans, with a height of 98 meters (322 feet). The ride up was tough but beautiful

Park Bosanski Stećak i Zastava– Park with 7 flags

Park Bosanski Stećak i Zastava is a fascinating historical site located at Trg solidarnosti 2 in Sarajevo, Bosnia and Herzegovina. It is not close to the old town of Sarajevo, which provides a serene escape from the bustling tourist areas. We had to take the tram to get to this park, which added an element of adventure to our journey. This park celebrates the rich cultural heritage of the region and features a remarkable collection of medieval tombstones known as stećci, each telling its own story through intricately carved designs and symbols. These tombstones not only reflect the artistic traditions of medieval Bosnia and Herzegovina but also represent the spiritual beliefs and societal values of the time. In addition to the stećci, the park also showcases seven flags that symbolize different historical periods of Bosnia and Herzegovina, each representing the nation’s diverse history and resilience. This combination of historical artifacts and symbols, along with the peaceful surroundings, makes the park a unique place to explore the country’s past while also allowing visitors to reflect on the enduring legacy of its cultural identity.

The 7 flags represent:

  1. Medieval Bosnia – Representing the Kingdom of Bosnia.
  2. Ottoman Empire – Reflecting the period of Ottoman rule.
  3. Austro-Hungarian Empire – Marking the Austro-Hungarian occupation.
  4. Kingdom of Yugoslavia – Symbolizing the interwar period.
  5. Socialist Federal Republic of Yugoslavia – Representing the socialist era.
  6. Republic of Bosnia and Herzegovina – The flag used during the Bosnian War.
  7. Current Flag of Bosnia and Herzegovina – The modern-day flag.

Final thoughts

You can easily spend couple of days in Sarajevo appreciating everything the city has to offer. We spent the first day walking the old town, watching sunset at the yellow fortress and second day at Mount Trebevic, and walking around the rest of Sarajevo. The city also has a great food scene and several restaurants in the old town area serve traditional Bosnian coffee and Burek. The food scene of Bosnia/Sarajevo needs its own blog post. All in all, spending at least 2 days in Sarajevo is worth it.

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Tales from Balkan-Vijećnica, the city hall of Sarajevo; symbol of fusion of cultures

From the time I saw photos of the roof of front hall of Sarajevo city hall, I have been intrigued by this building. On our 1st day stay in Sarajevo I woke at 6 AM to and wondered around the old town and landed up in front of the city hall around 7AM. The building wasn’t even open but when I peeked in, the guard ushered me in and let me take couple of photos of the ceiling. I went back around 9 when it opened and spent next few hours walking around and admiring the architecture and history of the building as well as its role as the symbol of culture, history and resilience of Sarajevo.

History of Vijećnica

The construction of the Sarajevo City Hall, also known as Vijećnica, was a significant architectural endeavor that symbolized the Austro-Hungarian influence in the region. The Austro-Hungarian administration, upon assuming control of the Bosnian region in 1878, embarked on an ambitious modernization program aimed at transforming the infrastructure and institutions of the area. In addition to the construction of the City Hall, efforts were made to develop and enhance vital elements of the region’s infrastructure, encompassing the building of roads and railways to facilitate transportation, as well as the establishment of educational institutions to foster the intellectual growth of the population.

Alexandar Wittek designed City Hall in Neo-Moorish style, making multiple trips to Cairo to study similar buildings. After Wittek’s alleged mental illness and suicide (some ascribe this to the design and challenges of the city hall), Ćiril M. Iveković took over the project, making some adjustments and completing it in 1894.

In 1947 the city hall was converted into Academy of Sciences and Arts, and as well as the main library and served as the library until 1992. During the siege of Sarajevo in 1992, the city hall was heavily damaged and about 2 million books, magazines and other articles were forever lost. Since then, the city hall has been restored to its original glory and is now open to public to visit.

There is another interesting piece of history associated with city hall and stubbornness of Bosnians. There is house/restaurant across the city hall near the Sarajevo sign and it is known as Inat Kuca – house of spite. Definitely check it out when you at city hall and get a rakija and enjoy the view.

Tales from Balkan: Inat Kuća, or “House of Spite”- Symbol of Bosnian stubbornness

Inside the city hall

Apart from the beautiful architecture of the building there is a permanent museum at the basement level of the building. The theme of the museum is Sarajevo 1914-2014″, which deals with life in Sarajevo during the last century. Visitors can explore various exhibition spaces dedicated to the city’s history, literature, art and archaeology. Museum also has the exhibition “Sarajevo Town Hall once again”, by Nedžad Mulaomerović, which tells the story of the restoration of the Town Hall, which lasted almost two decades.

Entrance fee

There is an entrance fee for the city hall. Ticket prices: – Single ticket 10 KM – Group ticket 10+ (more than 10 participants) 8 KM. For more information check out the city hall website: https://www.vijecnica.ba/en/home

Final thoughts

The city hall of Sarajevo is one of my favorite building for its architecture as well as its historical significance

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Stories from Istanbul-Hagia Sophia, a living testament of ebb and flow of religions and ideologies

Istanbul is one of my favorite cities for a stopover and it is easy to do 1-2 day stop over through Turkish airlines Istanbul stopover program. We have utilized this program by Turkish airlines twice, once in April 2023 on our way to Egypt and again in June 2024, on our way to Bosnia. You can check this blog post for more details on how to do a layover in Istanbul. On both visits, we stopped at Hagia Sophia, a place that fascinated me since I read about it in Wonders of the World. In 2023, we were able to go to the ground floor of Hagia Sophia while 2024, ground floor was only for praying Turkish nationals/Muslims while 2nd floor is open to all.

  1. A brief history lesson of Hagia Sophia
  2. Mosaics of Hagia Sophia
    1. Apse mosaic: Virgin and Child 
    2. Mosaic Of Emperor Leo VI
    3. Mosaic of Emperors Justinian and Constantine
    4. Deesis Mosaic of Christ
    5. Emperor Constantine IX and Empress Zoe Mosaic
    6. Emperor John Komnenos II and Irene Mosaic
  3. Other significant things to see at Hagia Sophia
  4. Calligraphy Roundells
  5. Sultan’s chamber
  6. Omphalion

A brief history lesson of Hagia Sophia

Consecrated to Holy Wisdom of God (Sophia) by Emperor Justinian in 537, Hagia Sophia was largest church in the world at that time. The emperor’s dream was to build a church that surpassed Temple of Jerusalem in splendor. Before being rebuilt in 537, Hagia Sophia has been rebuilt several times due to fire damage. The original church at this site was built by Constantine I in 325, on the foundation of a pagan temple and it was damaged in fires in 404, and again in 415. After being rebuilt by Justinian in 537, Hagia Sophia stood as a monument for Byzantine era engineering and ingenuity and has stood the test of time even though there have been some damages due to earthquake. The building now standing is the 6th century edifice with some modifications added due to the political and religious transformation that Istanbul/Constantinople underwent.

After the Turkish conquest of Constantinople in 1453, Mehmed II had it repurposed as a mosque, with the addition of a wooden minaret (tower used for the summons to prayer), a great chandelier, a mihrab (niche indicating the direction of Mecca), and a minbar (pulpit). Hagia Sophia served as mosque until 1934, when it was converted to a museum by the first president of Turkey, Mustafa Kemal Atatürk. However, in 2020, it was reclaimed back as a mosque and now serves as functional mosque again.

Mosaics of Hagia Sophia

Hagia Sophia, with its awe-inspiring architectural design, has captured the imagination of visitors for centuries. Beyond its magnificent exterior, the interior of this iconic structure is adorned with a breathtaking array of artistic masterpieces. The intricate gold-plated, silver-plated, glass, terracotta, and colored stone mosaics add a layer of exquisite detail, each telling a unique story. Notably, the original ceiling mosaics dating back to the 6th century are adorned with intricate floral and geometric motifs, offering a glimpse into the rich historical tapestry of this remarkable edifice.

Dome of Hagia Sophia

Iconoclasm and Mosaics of Hagia Sophia: Iconoclasm, a period marked by the destruction of religious images and artifacts, had a significant impact on the mosaics of Hagia Sophia. During the period of Leo III and following byzantine kings from 746 to 827, all the pictorial depictions of Christ and the saints were removed and replaced with simple motifs. The best example of the iconoclast movement can be found in another church in Istanbul Hagia Irene -within the walls of Topkapi palace. The apse of Hagia Irene is decorated with a simple cross which iconoclast found acceptable.

Simple cross of Hagia Irene-Iconoclast image

The transition from plant-based and geometric mosaics to figured mosaics reflects the changing religious and cultural landscape during tumultuous time. Despite the challenges posed by the Iconoclast period, the tradition of mosaic art continued to evolve, yielding a rich tapestry of artistic expression that spans several centuries. The mosaics from the 9th to 13th centuries, alongside those from the 6th century, provide a captivating glimpse into the history and artistic prowess of Hagia Sophia, showcasing the enduring legacy of mosaic craftsmanship in this iconic structure. The Virgin and Child mosaic that can be seen in the apse of Hagia Sophia was made after the Iconophiles came back to power in 847.

Apse mosaic: Virgin and Child 

With its stunning golden background and intricate details, the mosaic of the Virgin and Child holds a significant place in the rich tapestry of Byzantine art within the walls of the Hagia Sophia. Situated in a quarter-dome on the eastern side, occupying the space that once was the church’s apse, this mosaic stands as a testament to the artistic and spiritual significance attributed to it. It is widely believed that the mosaic visible today is a reconstruction of an earlier work, believed to have been dismantled by iconoclasts. The origins of this masterpiece can be traced back to the ninth century, during the reign of the emperors Michael III and Basil I, showcasing the enduring legacy of Byzantine art and culture. Furthermore, the mosaic underwent extensive restoration during the 14th century, following the substantial damage inflicted by earthquakes, marking a testament to the resilience and commitment to preserving this invaluable cultural heritage. Initially, the Virgin Mary was flanked by depictions of the archangels Gabriel and Michael within majestic arches, yet today only Gabriel remains, adding an air of mystery and intrigue to this cherished artwork.

Soon after Constantinople was sacked by Sultan Mehmed II’s Ottoman forces in 1453, the Hagia Sophia was turned into a mosque, symbolizing the shift in power and religious influences in the region. The conversion of the Hagia Sophia into a mosque led to significant structural and decorative changes, including the plastering over of Christian mosaics and frescoes during the reign of Sultan Suleiman I in the next century. The transformation of the Hagia Sophia continued over the centuries, with notable renovations such as the installation of an ornate mihrab, or niche pointing towards Mecca, as part of a major renovation of the mosque by the Swiss-Italian architect brothers Gaspare and Giuseppe Fossati in 1847-49. This architectural addition now stands below the depiction of the Virgin and Child, creating a juxtaposition of Islamic and Christian elements within the revered space. Despite the alterations to the original artwork, the enduring historical and cultural significance of the Hagia Sophia remained evident. The preservation and restoration efforts of American archaeologist Thomas Whittemore from 1935 to 1939 brought to light the hidden beauty of the mosaics, contributing to a renewed appreciation of the site’s artistic and historical value. Whittemore’s access to the Hagia Sophia was facilitated by his friendship with the first president of the Turkish Republic, Mustafa Atatürk, who played a pivotal role in the secularization of the country and the transformation of the Hagia Sophia into a museum, thereby shaping its identity as a symbol of cultural pluralism and historical continuity.

Both in April 2023, and June of 2024, we couldn’t see the Virgin Mary and the archangel Gabriel mosaic as it is located in the direction Muslims face while praying, or Qiblah and is covered with curtains during prayer time. We were able to get a peak of it from the upper gallery when we were there in June of 2024. The intricate detail of the mosaic, depicting biblical scenes and figures, is truly remarkable. In the mosaic, Mary is enthroned, and she puts her right hand on shoulder of the Child Christ who is seated in her lap. Her left hand holds a handkerchief, which is on Christ’s knee. There is a decorated inscription which is mostly erased around them, which says: “The images which impostors cast down here pious emperors have again set up’’.

Mosaic Of Emperor Leo VI

The mosaic of Emperor Leo VI, also known as Leo the Wise, is a breathtaking masterpiece located above the imperial gate in Hagia Sophia, serving as a vivid testament to the rich history and cultural significance of the Byzantine Empire. We saw this remarkable artwork during our visit in April 2023, when non-praying tourists were allowed access to the main floor of the mosque, allowing us to marvel at the intricate details and symbolism within the mosaic.

Emperor Leo VI’s reign over the Byzantine Empire, spanning from 886 to 912, was marked by both political prowess and personal controversy. His marriages sparked scandal and condemnation within Byzantium, as they deviated from established tradition, leading to dispute and disapproval from certain church leaders. The mosaic encapsulates these tumultuous aspects of Leo’s life, offering a visual narrative of the challenges he encountered in gaining recognition for his multiple marriages from the church.

Within the stunning mosaic, you can see the portrayal of Emperor Leo VI engaged in prayer to Jesus, a poignant representation of the emperor’s reverence and his quest for divine guidance amidst the complexities of his reign. The script held by Jesus in the mosaic reads “Peace be upon you. I am the light of the world,” serves as a powerful testament to the spiritual themes woven into the artwork, echoing the enduring significance of faith and divine illumination in the life and reign of Emperor Leo VI.

Mosaic of Emperors Justinian and Constantine

The mosaic located over the South door in the vestibule holds significant historical and artistic value, dating back to the 10th century. It is believed to have been created to commemorate the Russians’ retreat from Constantinople in 971 or the defeat of the Bulgars by Basil in 1018. The rich imagery of the mosaic features iconic figures such as Justinian, Christ, Mary, and Constantine, providing a vivid portrayal of historical and religious significance.

Mary is depicted seated, holding Child Christ and a handkerchief, draped in a maphorion with a hood, while “The Mother of God’’ monograms surround them, adding a layer of sacred symbolism to the mosaic. Interestingly, Child Christ is shown making a blessing gesture with a larger hand, symbolizing divine authority and grace. The portrayal of the two most famous Byzantine emperors, Justinian and Constantine, adds an intriguing political and cultural dimension to the artwork.

Emperor Justinian is depicted on the left side presenting his architectural masterpiece, the Hagia Sophia, to the Virgin and Child, while Emperor Constantine appears on the right, presenting his own masterpiece, Constantinople, to the holy family. The attention to detail in the depiction of the emperors’ attire is remarkable, from their gold embellished crowns with pearls and emeralds to their imperial clothes and leather shoes—all lavishly adorned.

Justinian’s portrayal exhibits signs of age, with wrinkles on his face, and is accompanied by the inscription: ‘’Justinian, Emperor of Illustrious Memory’’. In contrast, Constantine appears youthful and emotive, with an inscription around him declaring: ‘’Constantine, the great Emperor amongst the saints’’. This detailed portrayal of the emperors not only adds historical context but also captures the essence of their individual reigns and contributions to Byzantine history and culture.

Deesis Mosaic of Christ

The Deesis Mosaic of Christ is situated in the south gallery on the upper floor of Hagia Sophia. Dating back to the 13th century, this mosaic is considered one of the finest examples of Byzantine art, portraying the Judgment Day, a popular theme in Byzantine religious art. It exemplifies the flourishing of the arts and a growing interest in naturalism in the latter centuries of the Byzantine Empire. Emperor Michael VIII Palaiologos, credited with reclaiming the Byzantine capital, is likely responsible for the installation of this monumental new mosaic, possibly as part of a larger restoration project in Hagia Sophia. The Deesis, a traditional representation of the Virgin Mary and St. John the Baptist imploring Christ for the salvation of mankind, holds significant importance in Byzantine art as a pioneer of the Renaissance period, characterized by its soft tones, intense humanity, and emotional realism in the figures’ faces. At the center of the Deesis Mosaic is Christ Pantocrator, flanked by the Virgin Mary on the left and John the Baptist on the right, beseeching Jesus for mercy for the people on the Day of Judgment. The vivid colors and the emotive expressions on the characters’ faces contribute to the mosaic’s success, leading the Deesis in Hagia Sophia to be considered the revival of Byzantine mosaic art. This monumental mosaic portrays Christ, the Virgin Mary, and John the Baptist in a scale that reflects their significance in Byzantine culture, with Christ at the center bearing the Greek abbreviation “IC XC”, the Virgin Mary to his right labeled “MP ΘY”, and John on his left as “Saint John the Forerunner,” each symbolizing the Son of God, the Mother of God, and the prophet who prepared the way for Christ’s ministry.

Emperor Constantine IX and Empress Zoe Mosaic

Emperor Constantine IX and Empress Zoe Mosaic is one of the most striking mosaics in the south gallery. This remarkable artwork depicts the intertwining stories of Byzantine emperor Constantine IX Monomachos and Empress Zoe. Zoe, being the only heir after her father’s death, had a significant role in determining the emperor by virtue of her marriage. Her marital history, which includes the mysterious deaths of her first two husbands and her subsequent marriage to Constantine Monomachus, sparked public controversy, as he brought his mistress Maria Skleraina to the palace. The mosaic is believed to have been created in honor of Zoe’s first or second marriage, with the man’s face being later altered. Although not immediately evident in photographs, close inspection of the mosaic reveals the damage around the man’s face and the narrowing of the longer family name “Monomachos” to fit the frame. Inscriptions on the mosaic emphasize Zoe’s piety and the family’s contributions to the church. Discovered in 1934 by the Byzantine Institute, The Zoe Mosaic offers valuable insight into the life of Empress Zoe. The mosaic’s portrayal of Zoe, regardless of her actual age, conveys a sense of piety and generosity, as depicted by her holding an inscribed scroll signifying contributions to the church. The inscription around her reads: ‘’Zoe, the most pious Augusta’’. The Emperor’s face in the mosaic is that of her third husband, Constantine XI, depicted wearing a crown with hanging pearls and holding a purse, known as a pokombion. The mosaic also features a larger figure of Christ, dressed in a chiton, signifying benediction with his right hand while holding an ornamented Holy Book with his left hand.

Emperor John Komnenos II and Irene Mosaic

Situated at the southern endpoint of the historical site, the magnificent mosaic panel dates back to the 13th century, serving as a timeless testament to the art and heritage of the era. This remarkable piece is reminiscent of the Zoe Panel in its portrayal of the “imperial offering to Mary and Christ”, capturing the attention of visitors with its intricate details and symbolism. The Virgin Mary, a central figure in the composition, is depicted in a manner that emphasizes her humility, portrayed smaller than the Emperor and Empress. Her tender expression and the endearing depiction of Christ the Child seated on her lap, making a benediction with his right hand and holding a roll in his left, evoke a sense of reverence and devotion. The artistic rendition showcases Mary accompanied by the monograms of “Mother of God” (MP OV) in a humanistic style, while Christ is adorned with a cruciform nimbus, adding to the spiritual significance of the scene.

The Empress Eirene, a figure of regal grace and benevolence, is portrayed with distinctive physiognomy, characterized by her blonde hair and attire befitting her lofty status. Holding a scroll of parchment, symbolizing a noble donation to the Great Church, she exudes an aura of generosity and piety. The intricate details of her royal red garment, adorned with jewelry and gold, along with her majestic imperial crown and pear-shaped earrings, reflect the opulence of the imperial court. The accompanying inscription “Eirene, the most pious Augusta” further emphasizes her devout nature and esteemed position. Similarly, John II Komnenos, the illustrious son of Alexios Komnenos, is depicted with utmost reverence and grandeur as he presents a money purse to Mary and Christ. His royal attire, adorned with jewels, and the distinguished cap-shaped crown known as “camelaucum” signify his noble lineage and authority. The accompanying inscription eloquently describes him as “John in Christ the God, faithful king born in the purple, Autocrat of Romans, the Komnenos”, highlighting his significant role in the imperial heritage. To the right of Empress Eirene and Emperor Komnenos, a panel is allocated to their son, Alexios, representing a poignant portrayal of the young prince. The mosaic captures Alexios at approximately 17 years of age, immortalizing his presence in a moment of youth and regal poise. However, the somber undertones of the depiction become evident, as the selected tesserae in the mosaic reflect a melancholic tone, foreshadowing the untimely demise of the young prince. The panel, believed to be from a later period than that of his parents, showcases distinct artistic styles, further enriching the historical narrative and artistic evolution of the era.

Other significant things to see at Hagia Sophia

Calligraphy Roundells

After the Ottomans conquered Constantinople and transformed Hagia Sophia into an Imperial Mosque, the decorations inside Hagia Sophia changed to calligraphic representations of god’s name, rather than literal depictions of the human figure.  In the Islamic tradition, only Allah has the power to create life, and so they did not create artistic depictions of the human form.  In the Images below, calligraphy can be seen used as grand decorations in the interior of Hagia Sophia. The calligraphic panels in Hagia Sophia are the works of master calligraphers, such as Kazasker Mustafa İzzet Efendi. His work in the dome inscriptions is not just calligraphy; it’s poetry in motion, a fluid dance of script that speaks volumes about the artistic and spiritual ethos of the Ottoman era.

Sultan’s chamber

Situated to the left of the mihrab, Sultan’s lodge is where the Sultan would perform his prayers. Nobody is sure who built it or when it was built, but historians speculate that its construction may have been commissioned by a prominent ruler of the time. The architectural details of the lodge, including the intricate carvings and ornate decorations, suggest a significant level of craftsmanship and attention to detail.

Omphalion

In 1935, Mustafa Kemal Atatürk turned Hagia Sophia into a museum and had the carpets removed to reveal the marble floors, allowing visitors to see the Omphalion, the spot where Byzantine emperors were coronated. Most of the floor is again covered by carpet but you can see part of the marble floor near the mihrab

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Tales from Balkans-Village of Počitelj, the historic stone city

Pocitelj, a small village in the Herzegovina region of Bosnia and Herzegovina, is famous for its well-preserved Ottoman-era architecture and UNESCO World Heritage List status. It’s about 30 kilometers south of Mostar, and the easiest way to reach it is by car via the E73 highway.

Pocitelj has a history of over 600 years and is an important cultural and historical site in Bosnia and Herzegovina. In the 16th century, the village came under Ottoman rule, leading to the construction of buildings such as the Hadzi-Alija mosque, the Sahat-kula (clock tower), and the Gavrankapetanovic-Kuca (Gavrankapetanovic house) which represent typical ottoman styled architecture.

Main landmarks of Pocitelj

Hadzi-Alija Mosque was built in 1563, is considered to be one of the oldest mosques in Bosnia and Herzegovina. The mosque’s distinctive stone walls and minaret are typical of Ottoman-era architecture. We didn’t go inside the mosque but according to our guide, pre-covid, people were allowed inside and hopefully they will open it to public soon.

Sahat-kula (Clock Tower), built in the 17th century, is an iconic landmark in Pocitelj. Standing at over 20 meters tall, this stone tower served as a way for villagers to tell time. Despite the missing clock face, visitors can still climb to the top to enjoy stunning views of the surrounding countryside. Unfortunately, the clock face was melted for its metal during the war time.

Gavrankapetanovic-Kuca is a prime model of Ottoman-era residential architecture from the 17th century. It boasts traditional stone walls, a red-tile roof, and well-preserved interior showcasing original furniture and decor used by the family.

Citadel or the fortress – The stone walls of the fortress are intact, and you can climb to the top to get an amazing view of the valley and surrounding areas

Houses -There are still about 20 families that live in the village and call it home. We stopped by one such home that sold home grown figs, pomegranate juice, honey etc. Just walking around village gives you fascinating glimpse ottoman era

Final thoughts:

Village of Počitelj is a great stopping point on your way from Dubrovnik to Mostar or as a day trip from Mostar before heading to Kravica waterfalls. You can spend 1-2 hours roaming around the village.

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Tales from Balkans- Konjic: The “& ” in Bosnia and Herzegovina

Konjic is the town that connects Herzegovina with Bosnia and our guide jokingly said that Konjic is the “&” in Bosnia & Herzegovina. We visited Konjic on our Bosnia trip and did white water rafting in the Neretva River. Konjic like other cities in Bosnia, blends history, and nature especially popular for white water rafting and in fact when we were inn Konjic, they were holding the European rafting championships on the river.

Things to do in Konjic:

  1. Stara Ćuprija- The old bridge
  2. Boracko lake
  3. White water rafting on Neretva River
  4. Tito’s bunker on Zlatar mountain
  5. Final Thoughts

Stara Ćuprija- The old bridge

Built in 1682, the Old Bridge in Konjic is one of the most beautiful bridges from the Ottoman period in Bosnia and Herzegovina. The bridge, made of stone and consisting of six arches, is considered the point where Herzegovina merges with Bosnia. Alongside Mostar’s Old Bridge, Trebinje’s Arslanagića Bridge, and the Mehmed-paša Sokolović Bridge in Višegrad, the Old Bridge in Konjic is a significant cultural and historical monument of the country, declared a national monument of Bosnia and Herzegovina. Unfortunately, the original Old Stone Bridge was demolished on March 3, 1945, during the withdrawal of the German army, and a wooden structure stood in its place for a long time, serving as a crossing over the Neretva River. In 1962, the bridge was reconstructed with a concrete structure, restoring it to its original state. The renovated bridge was reopened on June 16, 2009, with the assistance of the Government of the Republic of Turkey.

Boracko lake

Located about 20 kilometres from Konjic, Boračko Lake is a glacial lake that lies at the base of Mount Prenj. We stopped here on the way to our white water rafting start point but I would definitely love to go back and explore this lake more. There are some bed and breakfast places near the lake and it is supposedly really beautiful in fall season. For more on this lake, check out this blog

White water rafting on Neretva River

Rafting on the Neretva River is a popular activity in Konjic, and we did ours through Visit Konjic rafting company. There are several providers, and they all seem to follow the same route. When we did our rafting in mid-June, 2024, we were on the only ones on the entire 22 km path, but our guide informed us that during peak season of July and August, there might be as many as 100 rafts on the water. We enjoyed having this amazing canyon to ourselves and felt like the scenery is right out of middle earth with lush green tress, waterfalls and beautiful canyons. During June, the rapids were level II and III and very manageable.

The white rafting take place in 26 kilometers long, the Rakitnica canyon that separates the Bjelašnica and Visočica mountains and connects Bosnia and Herzegovina and is one of the deepest canyons in Europe. Most rafting tours start from village of Glavatičevo  and end near the bridge of Konjic.

A typical itinerary for white water rafting looks like below and since we did this during off season, we started around 11 AM.

  • Arrival to Rafting Base Camp – Once we reached the base camp, we were given wet suits and changed into water shoes. After the safety briefing, off we went to the starting point in a minivan.
  • Departure towards the rafting start location in Glavaticevo -It takes about and hour to reach the starting point at village of Glavatičevo. The drive is beautiful and goes through the beautiful mountains. On the way to the village, we stopped at the Boracko Lake lookout point for photos.
  • Rafting start at – 12:00 After ariving to start point in Glavaticevo,we got in the rafts and started our descent towards Rakitnica Canyon where we did a 30 min stop for some snacks and swim.
  • Rakitnica Canyon Swim Stop -The first leg of the journey ended when we reached to the point where Rakitnica tributary river meets Neretva. This place is beautiful and we appreciated the crystal-clear waters and surrounding mountains.
  • Second leg of the Journey – 14:30 After a nice relaxing swim stop, we started on our second leg and arrived back at the base camp around 3.30PM. After a warm shower and a change of clothes, we had traditional Bosnian lunch made by the hosts.
Starting point
Rakitnica river joining Nerevta river
Waterfall in the canyon

Tito’s bunker on Zlatar mountain

Officially named the “Armijska Ratna Komanda” (ARK D-o), Tito’s bunker was built between 1953 and 1979. It served as an atomic shelter to protect the military command and 350 members of President Tito’s government in the event of a nuclear attack during the Cold War. It is now a museum and visit it when you are in Konjic

Final Thoughts

Konjic is a beautiful place and has lots to do. We did a day trip from Sarajevo, but you can definitely spend couple of days here to truly appreciate all Konjic has to offer.

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Tales from Balkan- Blagaj Tekke-A peaceful oasis

  1. Where is Blagaj
  2. Blagaj Tekke the dervish retreat
  3. Best place to take photos of the Tekke
  4. Entrance fee

Where is Blagaj

The village of Blagaj na buni is located about 10 km (6 miles) from Mostar that could be reached by bus or car. The main attraction of the village is the Tekke or Tekkja – a place of spiritual retreat and reflection for Dervish monks. The unique feature of this Tekke is that it is built on a solid rocky soil at the right side of the source of the Buna River. A very high cliff stretches above the Tekija (240 meters high). On top of the cliff, you can see the remains of Stjepan Vukcic-Kosaca’s fort-town from the Middle Ages. The Buna River that flows adjacent to the monastery emerges from under the massive Karst stone formation after traveling over 19 kms underground.

Spring of Buna River

Blagaj Tekke the dervish retreat

The primary purpose of the structure was to serve as a dervish Zikr praise-chanting (praising God and His names) venue and a retreat, and it is still active religious complex with Zikir praise chanting happening 3 times a week. The tekke was built around 1520 and it features elements of both Ottoman architecture and Mediterranean style. The dervishes follow a mystical strand of Islam in which the peaceful contemplation of nature plays a part, hence the Tekke’s idyllic positioning next to the river.

You can go inside the building by paying 10 marks and there are several different rooms including a kitchen, guest house, hammam, a room for praying, tombs, and a courtyard. There are some interesting features including the perforated dome in the hammam and beautiful wooden ceiling of  semahana, or the room used to perform zikr (religious chanting).

Best place to take photos of the Tekke

To get the iconic reflection of the Tekke in the water, you need to get the other side of the river. Cross-over the first bridge and walk behind the restaurants until you see a set of stairs that lead to the viewpoint.

Stairs leading to other side of the river to get the iconic photos

Entrance fee

There is an entrance fee to go inside the Tekke- It is 10 marks/ 4-5 euros. Women are expected to cover their head and arms as well as wear long skirts. These are provided free of cost at the entrance.

Other things to do around Blagaj

There are several restaurants around Blagaj and you can get traditional food and drinks and enjoy the peaceful surroundings.

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Stories from Istanbul-Rustem Pasha Mosque: the other blue mosque

  1. Rustem Pasha mosque- a hidden gem
  2. Where is Rustem Pasha mosque located
  3. RÜSTEM PASHA MOSQUE OPENING HOURS (2024)
  4. Entrance fee
  5. Final thoughts

There are over 3000 mosques in Istanbul, the most famous being the Blue Mosque or the Sultanahmet Mosque. The blue mosque gets its name from the interior of the mosque that is lined with more than 20,000 blue colored, handmade ceramic tiles from İznik, which are richly decorated with flowers, trees, and abstract patterns. Above the tiles the walls are painted with various motifs, also in a blue color. However, three are 2 other mosques in Istanbul that also have the blue interior and covered in Iznik tiles– Sokullu Mehmed Pasha Mosque, and Rustem Pasha mosque.

Rustem Pasha mosque- a hidden gem

Rüstem Pasha Mosque, a hidden gem and magnificent work of Mimar Sinan, nestled in the bustling market of Istanbul near Golden horn is a miniature version of the iconic Blue Mosque without the crowds. In fact, when we visited on a Thursday afternoon in June of 2024, there were only 3 other people in the mosque. We had visited blue mosque earlier that afternoon and it was buzzing with 100s of people.

The mosque was designed and built in 1561 by the renowned Ottoman imperial architect Mimar Sinan for Grand Vizier and son-in-Law of Suleiman the magnificent- Rüstem Pasha. The mosque is built in a rectangular shape with semi domes around the main dome that are seated over four elephant feet and columns. Both inside and outside are made of white marble and interior of the mosque is one of the most embellished mosques with 7227 pieces of hand-made Iznik tiles containing 36 tulip motifs and 5 different colors. 850 of these tiles have calligraphy written on them.

Dome of Rustem Pasha Mosque
Mihrab of Rustem Pasha mosque
Dome of Rustem Pasha Mosque
Elephant columns

Where is Rustem Pasha mosque located

Address:  Rüstem Paşa, Hasırcılar Cd. No:62, 34116 Fatih/İstanbul, Türkiye

Rustem Pasha mosque can be challenging to locate but it is close to Spice Bazar and Yeni Camii mosque and located in the Hasırcılar Çarşısı (Strawmat Weavers Market) in the Tahtakale neighborhood of the Fatih district . From Yeni Cami, head toward the Spice Market, turning right up a small road at a large coffee shop. Further down this small street there are set of access stairs on Hasırcılar Caddesi and another on the small street that runs right (north) off Hasırcılar Caddesi towards the Golden Horn. At the top of the stairs, there’s a terrace and the mosque’s colonnaded porch

rustem pasha mosque
Entrance to the mosque
Outside courtyard

RÜSTEM PASHA MOSQUE OPENING HOURS (2024)

Rüstem Pasha Mosque is open daily from 10 am to 6 pm, with closures during prayer times and religious holidays such as Ramadan.

Entrance fee

There is no fee to enter but it is an active mosque and please be mindful of prayer hours

Final thoughts

Rustem Pasha mosque is a magnificent masterpiece of Mimar Sinan and definitely worth a visit and you can appreciate the intricate design of the Iznik tiles without the crowds of the blue mosque

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Tales from Balkans-A country divided against itself- Memories of a war

The Bosnian War (1992–95) had a significant impact on the cultural landscape of Bosnia and Herzegovina. As a former Yugoslav republic with a multiethnic population comprising Bosniaks (Bosnian Muslims), Serbs, and Croats, the war sparked bitter fighting among these groups and involvement from the Yugoslav army. The resulting death toll of over 100,000 people, mostly Bosniaks, left emotional scars and deep ethnic and political divides across the region. Despite the suffering, we found Bosnians to be generous and kind people. The war has certainly influenced their perspective on life, as our guide mentioned that many Bosnians prefer to work until they have enough money to live a comfortable life rather than being rich.

During our time in Bosnia, the impact of the war was evident everywhere. The destruction caused by the conflict was unmistakable, particularly with iconic structures like the 427-year-old Mostar stone bridge, which was destroyed during the war and subsequently rebuilt. Additionally, the Sarajevo city hall, once the national library, fell victim to fire in 1992, resulting in the destruction of two million books, articles, and magazines that had reflected the multicultural life of the region under the Ottoman and Austro-Hungarian empires.

Sarajevo roses- Everything but a flower

During the siege of Sarajevo from 1992 to 1995, the city endured relentless bombardment by enemy forces. On average, over 300 shells rained down on the city each day, reaching a devastating peak of 3,777 shells on July 22nd, 1993. When mortar rounds struck concrete surfaces, they left behind distinctive fragmentation patterns resembling flowers, which were later filled with red resin, earning them the name “Sarajevo Roses.” These marks serve as silent memorials people who lost their lives at each location during the siege. Scattered across Sarajevo, these blood-like stains stand as a poignant reminder of the war and the city’s resilience. For more information about the Siege of Sarajevo, you can visit Memories of a War.

Approximately 200 Sarajevo Roses were originally present throughout the city, but due to lack of upkeep and the rebuilding of the city, only about 28 remain. Despite the difficulty of being so close to reminders of death every day, it is important to remember what happened in Sarajevo. You can find one of these roses in front of the Sacred Heart Cathedral, another one close to City Hall, and one near the entrance of the Tunnel of Hope.

Sarajevo Rose at Sacred Heart Cathedral

Mortar holes in Mostar

The battles scars in Mostar are much more visible compared to Sarajevo. Decades after the ending of the war, there are still many empty and abandoned buildings. Ther are many building in the old town Mostar close to the bridge that was riddled with holes from the mortar attached, and visible bomb damage. Near the stone bridge, there is a rock wit inscription that stats Don’t forget 93 referring to the war on the Onescukova street that served as the war frontline.

Stories told by our guides

Most of the guides that we hired were old enough to remember the war and lived through it. One of our guides, Stefan, who spent three days with us in Croatia, told us that he was only two years old when the war happened, but he lost his father during the conflict. Growing up without a fatherly figure to guide him, Stefan got into a lot of trouble with his friends from school. He mentioned that not having a father wasn’t that unusual and he wasn’t treated as anything special, as most of his classmates also had lost their patents in the war.

In Mostar, we stayed in a house owned by friends of friends who fled to Atlanta, US during the war, and the house was completely demolished. The family rebuilt the house, and we were fortunate to stay with them and hear first-hand about their war experiences and how it had completely changed their lives. The host had worked as a hotel manager in Mostar before the war, and the hotel was completely destroyed. He took us to a local restaurant right across from the damaged hotel, which is finally being rebuilt.

“Christmas Eve/Sarajevo 12/24”

Photo: Cellist Vedran Smailovic in the bombed National Library in Sarajevo
Credit: Michael Evstafiev/AFP/Getty Images

Vedran Smailovic brought hope to Sarajevo during very difficult time in Bosnian war. In 1992, a group of people waiting to buy bread in a market were hit by mortar shells, resulting in 22 deaths. Vedran Smailovic, a well-known cellist in the city, was deeply affected by this event. The following day, he went to the spot, which was covered in flowers as a tribute, and started playing his cello. He hadn’t planned it, but he did it instinctively, and as people gathered around him, there was a sense of healing. He played there for 22 days, in honor of the 22 who had been killed, performing the same piece, Albinoni’s Adagio in G minor. Despite the presence of snipers on the hills, the cellist continued to play, risking his life. For another two years, he played at various locations in the city, amidst the ruins, dressed in a white shirt and black tailcoat, as if he were on stage in an orchestra. He soon became a symbol of courage for Sarajevo and the world. This story has been immortalized by Trans-Siberian Orchestra’s “Christmas Eve / Sarajevo” – iconic instrumental piece tells the story of Vedran Smailović during Bosnian war. I have this heard this song so many times during Christmas and didn’t realize it based on Vedran until I was visited Sarajevo. If you want to, you can watch the Trans-Siberian song /video here

All these stories are poignant reminders of horrors of war and effect on the cultural fabric of the country and its people. They also show the resiliency of the people and perseverance of hope despite unimaginable horrors.

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Tales from Balkans- Sahat-Kula: world’s only public lunar clock

Don’t watch the clock; do what it does. Keep going

Right next to the Gazi Husref-bey mosque in old town Sarajevo, stands a clock tower known as Sahat-Kula that displays time in a unique way, following lunar “a la turca” time which means that time is set according to that day’s sunset, when its hand must be firmly on 12. Without a manual reset, the clock would stop functioning within a week.  The times of prayers are also determined according to the Clock Tower, and during Ramadan the Clock is responsible for determining the time of iftar (breaking fast). The clock tower was built in the 16th century by Gazi Hursref Bey, and in 1876, after the original clockface was broken, the current one was installed and has been working since then.

Muvekit (clock keeper) 

Since the sunset changes every day depending on the season, the clock must be regulated often, and this is the job for the muvekit or the clock keeper. Current clock keeper is Mensur Zlatar, has a regular job as a jeweler near grand Gazi Husrev-beg mosque and his second job is to keep the clock tower running. Twice a week since 1967, Zlatar has climbs the 76-step tower of Sahat-Kula, to set the time.

Even during the 1990s war in former Yugoslavia, when Sarajevo was under siege for 1425 days and it was dangerous for people to go out as snipers from surrounding hills would shoot any civilian, Zlatar still climbed the steps of Sahat-Kula to set the time every week. He scaled it back to once a week during the war and since then has resumed his twice-weekly climb (This Man Keeps Time on the World’s Last Lunar Clock)

And that’s the heart of wabi-sabi—not the perfect tick of a quartz watch, but the weathered hands of a man who climbs for time. A clock that needs human touch. A ritual that has lasted because it’s flawed, fragile, and yet enduring.

Where modern life seeks precision, Sahat-Kula answers with presence.

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Mountains of the Imagination-Best sunrise spots, hikes, and 42 mile scenic loop in Grand Teton National Park

We went to Grand Teton as part of our weeklong trip to Yellowstone and Grand Tetons. Check out the weeklong itinerary for Yellowstone and Grand Teton here. Grand Teton National Park should absolutely be on everyone’s list and there is so much to do and spending couple of days in the park is totally worth it. We loved the beautiful scenery with snow covered mountains, alpine lakes, and plenty of wild animals including moose (only sighting of moose in my life). Here are some of the things we did in 2.5 days when we visited.

  1. View from Jackson Lake Lodge
  2. Signal Mountain viewpoint
  3. Sunrise at Oxbow bend
  4. Jenny Lake Boat ride and hike to Inspiration point
  5. Snake river rafting
  6. 42 mile scenic loop
  7. Delta Lake Hike
  8. Final thoughts

View from Jackson Lake Lodge

We stayed at Jackson Lake Lodge and the views from lobby and restaurant were absolutely amazing. The 60-foot floor to ceiling windows in the lobby gives visitors one of the most awe-inspiring views of the famed mountains. We also dined at the Blue Heron restaurant at Jackson Lake Lodge which has an outside patio seating with absolutely best views and delicious huckleberry cocktails. Even if you are not staying in the hotel, I highly recommend visit to the lobby and eating at one of its 3 restaurants. Unlike other national parks, the restaurants at Grand Teton are more upscale and had better variety of food. Mural room restaurant is the upscale version of the 3 and needs reservations while the Pioneer grill is more casual. We liked Blue Heron the best and had dinner couple of nights here.

Huckleberry cocktail with a view
View from the lobby

Signal Mountain viewpoint

Signal Mountain

The Signal Mountain Summit Road climbs 800 ft/242 m to panoramic views of the Teton Range, Jackson Hole, and Jackson Lake. There are two overlooks that provide valley views-East View Overlook, with views of the Jackson Hole Valley below and Jackson Point Overlook where you will see gorgeous views of the Teton Range, including Mt. Moran.

Singal Mountain summit road starts about mile from the Signal Mountain Lodge and has clear signs at the entrance. It is 5-mile narrow winding road that is frequented by bears and mule deer.

Pro tip: Don’t forget to take bug spray. In July, there were tons of mosquitoes and other bugs at the summit.

East view overlook of Signal Mountain

Sunrise at Oxbow bend

There are few spots in Grand Teton that are photographer’s dream for sunrise photos- Oxbow Bend, Schwabacher’s Landing, Mormon row, Snake River overlook, Signal Mountain, willow flats, Jack Tail ponds overlook, Jackson lake dam etc. but we saw the best sunrise at the oxbow bend.

We set out to go to Schwabacher’s Landing for sunrise photos but as we were passing Oxbow bend, we realized that sun was coming up and decided to take phots from Oxbow bend instead which was just off the road and only couple of miles from Jackson Lake lodge. It was one of those sunrises that moves you and fills you with awe.

Jenny Lake Boat ride and hike to Inspiration point

After the spectacular sunrise at Oxbow bend, we decided to hike the Jenny Lake trail. The parking lot at Jenny Lake gets filled very fast and we decided to be at the lake around 7 for the first boat ride. Chek out the timing and opening hours of jenny lake boat ride here. There are several hikes that you can do around Jenny Lake and most popular and family friendly one is taking the boat across Jenny Lake and hiking to Hidden falls and Inspiration point.

Jenny Lake boat dock: Hidden Falls is a 1/2-mile hike from the boat dock on the west side, and Inspiration Point is 1 mile away.

The trail is rocky but well-maintained and closer to falls, the trail climbs gradually. The path goes next to a babbling brook and there are wooden bridges along the way. From Hidden falls to Inspiration point is another mile hike and the path is very rocky and narrow (see the photo below). At times, you might have to stop to let the people from the opposite direction pass. Inspiration point provides beautiful panoramic views of the jenny lake and surrounding mountains

Hidden Falls

Narrow path going towards Inspiration point
View from Inspiration point

Snake river rafting

Another fun activities especially if you have little kids is the snake river rafting. Float a beautiful and scenic 10-mile stretch of the river inside Grand Teton National Park with experienced river guides share in-depth knowledge about local flora and fauna and the area’s rich history. We went this trip with Grand Teton Lodge company and they pick up and drop off at Jackson lake lodge. The whole trip took about 5 hours from start to finish.

View of Tetons from Snake river

42 mile scenic loop

Mormon Row
Schwabacher’s Landing

The 42-Mile Scenic Loop Drive in Grand Teton National Park is a fantastic way to experience the park’s beauty. We stopped at some of the 24 spots during different activities such as Sunrise at Oxo bend, Sunset at Signal Mountain, Rafting on Snake River.

What to See: There are 24 stops along the route, including iconic spots like Moulton Barns on Mormon Row, Snake River Overlook, Jenny Lake Loop Drive, Signal Mountain, and Schwabacher’s Landing

Scenic Loop Drive: The drive consists of two roads: HWY 191/89/26 (Outer Road) and Teton Park Road (Inner Road). You can start from three entry points:

Moose Junction: Drive north on HWY 191/89/26 from Jackson.

Moran Junction: Accessible from Dubois in the east via Togwotee Pass.

Jackson Lake Junction: If coming from Yellowstone to the north

Best Time to Do the Drive: The scenic loop is beautiful year-round, but summer and fall offer stunning views.

Duration: Depends on the number of stops but plan at least 3-6 hours.

The List of 24 includes:

  • Moulton Barns on Mormon Row
  • Blacktail Ponds Overlook
  • Dornans Village
  • Glacier View Overlook
  • Schwabacher’s Landing
  • Teton Point Overlook
  • Snake River Overlook
  • Cunningham Cabin
  • Elk Ranch Flats Overlook
  • Oxbow Bend Overlook
  • Jackson Lake Dam
  • Catholic Bay
  • Chapel of the Sacred Heart
  • Signal Mountain Lodge
  • Signal Mountain Summit Drive
  • Potholes Turnout
  • Mount Moran Turnout
  • Mountain View Turnout
  • Cathedral Group Turnout
  • Jenny Lake Scenic Drive and Overlook
  • Cascade Canyon Turnout
  • Teton Point Turnout
  • Windy Point Turnout
  • Chapel of Transfiguration & Menor Ferry Historic District

Delta Lake Hike

Delta Lake

Delta lake trail was once a hidden gem but lot more people know about it now and it is less hidden . Delta lake trail is not supported by Grand Teton National park and you will not find it in the suggested hikes (Check out various hikes in Grand Teton here) . Not supported by National Park means the trail is not kept up or maintained by the National Park Service. There are no official trail markers or signs on this trial once you leave the official trail going towards Amphitheater and Suprise Lakes. But no worries… there are plenty of people hiking this trial even at 7AM when we started and unofficial markers such as Cairns keep you on the right path.

All trails describe this hike as “Discover this 7.4-mile out-and-back trail near Moose, Wyoming. Generally considered a challenging route. This is a very popular area for hiking, so you’ll likely encounter other people while exploring. The best times to visit this trail are May through October. You’ll need to leave pups at home — dogs aren’t allowed on this trail”. This was a tough hike for me but the view at the end is amazing and totally worth it. There are several well written blog posts such as this one as well as this one will help you to navigate this tough hike and since it is unmarked trail, you need to where you are going.


Final thoughts

Grand Teton National Park is often overlooked compared to its more famous neighbor Yellowstone, but we enjoyed Tetons more than we thought we would. The food inside the park was better than Yellowstone and scenery is absolutely beautiful. This park is more compact compared to Yellowstone and less busy but offers quite a lot to do and spending at least couple of days in this park is totally worth it.