Tag: nature

Posted on

In search of oilbird: Visiting Trinidad’s Famous Dunston Cave at Asa Wright Nature Centre

Planning to see oilbirds in Trinidad? Here’s my first-person guide to the Dunston Cave colony at Asa Wright Nature Center, why you need a multi-day stay, and what to expect.

I’ve seen a lot of birds on my travels, but none quite like the oilbird. Weird, loud, nocturnal, and fruit-eating, it is the kind of creature that makes you wonder why evolution got so creative. Here’s how I got to see the colony at the Asa Wright Nature Center in Trinidad’s Northern Range, and everything I’d tell a friend before they go.

What Is an Oilbird (and Why the Strange Name)?

The oilbird, also called the guacharo or, in Trinidad, the diablotin (“little devil”), is a large brown bird with a wingspan of up to about 42 inches and a body length of around 18 inches. Its scientific name is Steatornis caripensis, and its range stretches across Colombia, Venezuela, Guyana, Ecuador, Peru, Bolivia and Trinidad.

The name comes from a grim bit of history. In 1799, the scientist Alexander von Humboldt documented how Venezuelan Indians and monks were collecting the extremely fat young chicks from their nests and boiling them down for cooking oil and torch fuel. At around 70 days old, the chicks can be 50 percent heavier than their parents. Amerindian peoples also used the rendered oil for lamps. Today, Trinidad has at least five oilbird colonies, and every one is protected by law.

Why You Need to Stay at Least 3 Days

Here’s the practical part that surprised me: you can’t just turn up and wander into the cave. The oilbirds are reclusive, and to avoid disturbing them, the caves can only be visited with a guide from the nature centre. Access is built around guests staying at the property, so I planned a stay of at least three days. That gave me time to settle in, join the guided walks, and get a slot for the cave visit without rushing.

My tip: book your stay well ahead and ask about the cave visit when you reserve. Three nights also lets you enjoy the rest of the centre’s rainforest birdlife, which is a bonus you won’t regret.

The Walk to Dunston Cave

After a short orientation from our guide, we set off along the forest trail. Our guide first asked us to change into shoes that could get wet, and the walk that followed was beautiful. The rainforest around Asa Wright is dense and green, dripping with leaves the size of dinner plates, and the air gets cooler and damper as you approach the cave. Our guide explained the rules: stay quiet, keep lights low, and respect the birds. This is a working breeding colony, not a show.

Coming Face to Face with the Colony

Nothing quite prepares you for it. Our guide used a red light to illuminate the birds, and in that dim glow I could see them sitting on ledges in the rock, strange-looking with hooked beaks and big dark eyes. The sign at the centre says the colony has been documented since 1957 and varies from about 123 to 130 birds, though I’ve also seen figures of 150 or more quoted for the cave, so numbers clearly shift over time.

The nests were fascinating. They’re built mostly from regurgitated fruit, shaped into low mounds on cave ledges, and reused year after year. I could see the piles of fruit the birds had collected the night before. Females lay two to four white eggs, and both parents share incubation for about 33 days. The young are slow to develop and may stay in the nest for 110 days or more.

Baby bird sitting in a nest

If the birds get disturbed, they let you know. Oilbirds scream, snarl and chuck in a way that sounds like a nightmare soundtrack, and the screams are truly ear-piercing. If I hadn’t known about the birds and had wandered into that dark cave on my own, I would have been scared to death, and I now understand how the bird earned its nickname, the little devil. It’s easy to see why Amerindians called them guacharos, “the ones that wail and mourn,” and why Trinidadians settled on diablotin. Watch the vidoe I took inside as we entered and you can hear the screams of the birds.

Because the birds are so easily disturbed, we didn’t stay long. I quickly took a couple of photos in the red light, and then we headed back out and left the colony in peace.

Fruit-Eating Birds That Use Echolocation

This is the part that blew my mind. Oilbirds are the only nocturnal fruit-eating birds in the world, and they also use low-frequency echolocation to find their way through the dark, much like bats. They can detect an object about eight inches across in total blackness. They aren’t blind either: their eyes are well adapted for low light, and they use sight whenever there’s enough of it.

At dusk they leave the cave to forage, mainly on palm fruits and the fruits of trees in the laurel family, and they may travel many miles in a night to feed. Then they return to the cave before daylight. It’s a very different life from the daytime birds I’m used to.

Practical Tips for Your Visit

  • Go with the guide. It’s required, and it protects the birds.
  • Stay at least three days so you can secure a cave visit around the guided schedule.
  • Keep noise and light to a minimum. Silence is your best camera accessory.
  • Bring sturdy shoes and rain gear. The trails are humid and can be slippery.
  • Be patient. Let your eyes adjust to the dim light and you’ll see far more.

Final Thoughts

Seeing the oilbirds at Asa Wright was one of the most memorable wildlife experiences I’ve had. The birds are odd, noisy, and absolutely unforgettable, and the setting in Trinidad’s Northern Range makes the whole experience feel like a step back in time. If you’re planning a trip to Trinidad and you love nature, put Dunston Cave at the very top of your list.

Posted on

Puffins, Post Offices, and Polar Explorers: A Morning on Vigur Island

Of all the excursions on this trip, Vigur Island might be the one I keep thinking back to. It’s a small stop — a tiny island in the middle of Ísafjarðardjúp fjord — but it packs in wildlife, history, and one genuinely remarkable owner into just a few hours.

Getting There

We were picked up right off the dock of the ship and loaded onto a small boat for the crossing. The ride took about 30 minutes, and we couldn’t have asked for a better morning for it — calm water, good light, and views back across the fjord toward Ísafjörður as we pulled away.

Pulling up to the small dock, the island’s red-roofed boat shed, and windmill came into view — a quiet, working little harbor that felt worlds away from the cruise port we’d just left.

The Island and Its One Family

What makes Vigur so fascinating is who lives there: just one family, and they’re the island’s sole year-round caretakers. The current owner is Felicity Aston, a British polar explorer who, in 2012, became the first woman in the world to ski solo and unassisted across Antarctica — towing her own supplies for 1,744 km over 59 days, using nothing but her own strength the entire way. She first came to Vigur while guiding expedition travelers there, fell in love with the place, and years later bought the island with her husband. Today they’re two of just three permanent residents, running Vigur as a working eider farm and bird sanctuary.

Their main livelihood comes from sustainably harvesting eiderdown — the eider ducks nest right around the family’s home and outbuildings for protection, and in exchange, the down they naturally shed is collected once the ducklings have left the nest. It’s a genuinely symbiotic relationship that’s been part of island life here for generations.

We spotted this eider duck tucked up on the rocky beach, blending almost perfectly into the stones and dried seaweed around her.

The Birds

The numbers are hard to wrap your head around: Vigur is home to something like 100,000 puffins, along with thousands of eider ducks and one of Europe’s largest colonies of black guillemot. We saw hundreds of puffins bobbing in the water on the approach, with a handful more flying in low and landing right next to their burrows along the path. Watching them come and go from their nests at close range was worth the trip on its own.

Catching one mid-flight was its own challenge — puffins are fast, low fliers, and this one banked hard just before touching down.

The other bird you can’t ignore is the Arctic tern — and our guide made sure we knew it before we got very far. Arctic terns nest right alongside the walking path, and they are fiercely protective of their chicks. Expect a few dive-bombing runs at your head as you walk through; it’s harmless, if startling, and part of the experience.

The Puffin Path

The boardwalk that lets you walk right through the colony without disturbing it is relatively new — it’s called the “Puffin Path,” and it was built in collaboration with National Geographic–Lindblad Expeditions, whose ships regularly stop at Vigur as part of their Iceland itineraries. It’s a genuinely well-designed piece of infrastructure: close enough to the birds to feel immersive, but built specifically to keep foot traffic away from the burrows.

Marriage Cake and the Smallest Post Office in Europe

Before heading back to the boat, we stopped for Hjónabandssæla — literally “marital bliss,” a traditional Icelandic rhubarb cake that’s been a Vigur family recipe for generations. It’s a simple, comforting treat after a couple of hours outside in the wind.

Just as memorable: Vigur’s post office, which claims the title of Europe’s smallest post office. We sent postcards from there, stamped with the island’s own puffin design — mail gets picked up “every now and then” rather than on any fixed schedule, so don’t expect it to beat you home.

Worth Its Own Trip

Between the boat ride, the puffins, the eider ducks, the Arctic terns keeping us on our toes, the cake, and Felicity’s story, Vigur ended up being one of the most memorable stops of the whole cruise — a tiny island that somehow has more going on than places many times its size.

Read next: our full day in Ísafjörður, including the walk through Old Town and the decision that sent us to Vigur instead of Dynjandi Waterfall.

The Town at the End of the Fjord: A Day in Ísafjörður
Posted on

Dimmuborgir, Iceland: The Complete Guide to the “Dark Castles” Lava Field Near Mývatn

If you’ve ever wanted to walk through what looks like the ruins of a giant’s fortress, Dimmuborgir will feel like it was built for exactly that daydream. This otherworldly field of jagged black lava towers near Lake Mývatn is one of the strangest, most photogenic landscapes in Iceland—and it comes with a story as dramatic as the rock formations themselves.

What Is Dimmuborgir?

Dimmuborgir means “Dark Castles” or “Dark Fortress” in Icelandic, and one look at the place tells you why. Instead of the smooth, rolling lava fields you’ll find elsewhere in the country, Dimmuborgir is a maze of hollow pillars, twisted arches, and jagged spires that rise up to 20 meters (65 feet) into the sky — looking far more like the crumbling battlements of an ancient castle than a natural rock formation.

It’s no surprise the site has worked its way into Icelandic folklore. Dimmuborgir is said to be the home of Grýla, the child-eating troll of Icelandic Christmas tradition, along with her husband Leppalúði and their mischievous sons, the thirteen Yule Lads. Rather than a jolly Santa Claus figure, Icelandic kids grow up with these unsettling characters supposedly lurking in the lava just outside town — which makes wandering through Dimmuborgir’s twisted pillars and hidden caves feel a little eerier once you know the backstory.

Fantasy fans will recognize the landscape from another world entirely: Dimmuborgir served as the filming location for Mance Rayder’s Wildling army camp in Game of Thrones Season 3, and the same lava field also doubled as the site of Samwell Tarly and Lord Commander Mormont’s White Walker attack. The scenes were shot in deep winter snow, so if you want the full “Beyond the Wall” effect, a winter visit gets you close to what the cameras captured. It’s a short drive from Grjótagjá, the small lava cave used as Jon Snow and Ygritte’s cave scene, so the two make an easy pairing for anyone chasing GoT filming spots around Mývatn.

How Dimmuborgir Was Formed

The formations at Dimmuborgir aren’t the result of erosion or wind, like most dramatic rock landscapes — they were created almost instantly, geologically speaking, around 2,300 years ago.

Here’s what happened: a massive lava flow spread across the area and rolled directly over a small lake or wetland. As the molten lava crept over the water, the water beneath it flash-boiled into steam. That trapped steam pushed upward through the lava, forcing its way out through narrow channels — similar to how straws poke through wet cement before it sets. As the steam escaped, it left behind hollow chimneys and pillars of hardened lava rising up out of the flow.

When the main body of lava eventually drained away or cooled and partially collapsed, it exposed this strange skeleton of towers, arches, and caves that had formed around the escaping steam. The result is the twisted, castle-like landscape you can walk through today — a rare, dramatic record of steam and lava colliding in real time.

What Not to Miss When Visiting

  • Kirkjan (The Church) — the single most famous formation in Dimmuborgir: a massive natural lava arch large enough to walk straight through, shaped uncannily like a Gothic church doorway. It is about 1 Km from the starting point and we didn’t make it all the way to this point
  • The marked trail loops — there’s a short ~20-minute loop for a quick visit, and a longer ~1-hour loop that winds deeper into the maze of towers. If you have the time, take the longer one — it’s where the landscape gets genuinely eerie and beautiful.
  • Hallarflöt — a much shorter detour, only about 220 m off the main path
  • The birch woodland pockets — small patches of stunted, wind-bent birch trees growing straight out of the black lava, an unusual and striking contrast worth slowing down for
Different hiking paths

Hallarflöt is one of the smaller, quieter clearings within the lava field — a natural meadow tucked among the rock formations, ringed by birch scrub. It’s an easy, short detour if you’re already on the main loop, and one of the more peaceful spots to stop for a photo away from the busier arches. Look out for oddly shaped rock “seats” and ledges worn smooth enough to perch on — it’s a favorite low-key photo spot for visitors making their way through the maze.

My friend Kat at Hallarflöt

If you’re planning your route, the signposts make it easy to string together a loop hitting Hallarflöt, Kirkja, and back to the car park in under an hour, or extend it out to Birtingatjörn if you want more time among the lava towers.

Golden hour light — visit early morning or evening if you can. Low, angled sunlight throws long shadows between the pillars and makes the whole site feel even more dramatic for photos.

These are some of my favorite shots from the area. The restrooms and gift shop give you a panoramic view of the valley.

Rock formation that looks like a squirrel

Dimmuborgir pairs naturally with Hverfjall crater, just 5 km away, so most visitors combine the two into a single stop on their way around Mývatn or the wider Diamond Circle route.

Parking Fee at Dimmuborgir

Unlike some of the free stops around Mývatn, Dimmuborgir now charges a parking fee of 1,000 ISK per car at the trailhead. There’s no separate entrance fee to walk the trails — the parking fee is the only cost to visit. Look for a payment sign, QR code, or attendant at the car park, and pay before you head off on the trail; paying after the fact typically comes with a penalty.

Quick tip: parking fees have become increasingly common across Iceland’s most popular natural sites in recent years, so it’s a good habit to assume payment is required and check for signage at any managed car park before walking away.

Posted on

Chasing Waterfalls and Basalt Columns: A Day Trip from Seyðisfjörður to Stuðlagil Canyon

Our ship docked at Seyðisfjörður, and with a full day ashore, we set out inland to chase two things Iceland does better than almost anywhere else: waterfalls and basalt columns. The route took us past Gufufoss and Rjúkandafoss before finishing at the main event — Stuðlagil Canyon. In my opinion, Stuðlagil Canyon is a must-visit in Iceland.

First Stop: Gufufoss

Just outside Seyðisfjörður, Gufufoss drops in a single, broad curtain over a dark basalt cliff into a boulder-strewn river. Under the heavy cloud cover that day, the black rock and misty spray gave the scene an almost moody, cinematic feel—a good warm-up for the dramatic landscape still ahead.

Rjúkandafoss

Rjúkandafoss is a multi-tiered cascade that tumbles down a mossy hillside in a series of drops rather than one clean plunge, spreading into thin, braided ribbons of water lower down. It’s a lovely, photogenic stop, and one that rewards a little patience — this is where I finally managed to catch an Icelandic sheep posing on a rock right at the edge of the falls.

I’d been trying to get a good shot of the local sheep the whole trip, and this one obliged, standing on a rock outcrop with the falls behind, looking almost like it knew it was being photographed.

Below the main falls, the water steps down through a narrow rocky channel into a series of turquoise pools, with an old wooden footbridge crossing overhead — a quieter, smaller-scale companion to the main cascade.

Stuðlagil Canyon

Nothing quite prepares you for Stuðlagil. Towering, tightly packed hexagonal basalt columns rise straight out of a glacial river that runs an almost unreal shade of turquoise — a color and geology combination that really is unique to Iceland.

How the canyon was discovered: What makes Stuðlagil especially remarkable is how recently it came to light. The basalt columns stayed hidden under the rushing waters of the Jökla River for centuries. That changed with the Kárahnjúkar hydropower project, built between roughly 2006 and 2009, which redirected much of the river’s flow into the Hálslón Reservoir and unexpectedly dropped water levels by several meters, exposing the rock formations that had been submerged for thousands of years. Even so, the canyon largely went unnoticed by the outside world for several more years — it was local shepherds who first came across it in 2016, and it wasn’t until it appeared in an Iceland tourism campaign that same year that it became widely known and turned into one of the country’s most photographed spots.

East side-More access but longer hike

Getting there: two parking lots, two very different experiences

There are two parking areas for the canyon — one on the west side and one on the east side — and they offer quite different visits:

  • West side: The quicker, more accessible option. From the west parking lot, you have two choices: take the stairs and follow the marked path along the rim, or head left, which takes you down to the canyon floor for a closer, water-level view.
  • East side: This side offers the better overall experience of the canyon, but it comes at a cost — it requires a considerably longer hike from the parking area to reach the viewpoints.

From the first (main) east-side parking lot near the wooden bridge, the hike to the canyon viewpoint is about:

  • ~1 hour each way (roughly 2 hours round trip)
  • Distance-wise, that’s about 4 km (2.5 miles) each way

If you’re able to drive further in — across the bridge and down the rougher track to the second east-side lot near Stuðlafoss waterfall (best done with a 4×4, ~7–8 minutes of rough driving) — you cut off a good chunk of that, saving roughly 30 minutes each way.

So in practice:

  • First lot only: ~2 hours round trip
  • Second lot (4×4 recommended): ~1 hour round trip

Since we were on a tight schedule to get back to the ship in time, we had to take the west parking lot. It was still spectacular, but I’d love to go back someday and do the east side hike properly for those better views.

One nice bonus on the west side: from the observation point right at the parking lot, you can also see a small waterfall tucked into the canyon — an unexpected little extra we weren’t specifically looking for.

Parking lot addresses & GPS

Both sides are reached by turning off the Ring Road (Route 1) onto Road 923, then onto the gravel Jökuldalsvegur — there’s no street “address” as such, since it’s rural farmland, so GPS coordinates and the Google Maps search names below are the most reliable way to navigate.

  • West side (near Grund farm): Search “Stuðlagil Canyon,” “Stuðlagil West Side Parking,” or “Stuðlagil Canyon Main Access” in Google Maps. Approximate coordinates: 65°09’48.6″N, 15°18’26.3″W (65.1635, -15.3073). This is the larger, easier-access lot with paid restrooms, plus a gift shop and food truck.
  • East side (near Klaustursel farm): Search “Stuðlagil East Side Parking” or “Stuðlagil (Bridge parking).” Approximate coordinates: 65.1879, -15.2854. This first lot sits right next to a white wooden bridge over the Jökla River. A second, rougher lot (“Parking Klaustursel” / “Parkplatz Klastrusel”) lies further in near Stuðlafoss waterfall — reachable by 4×4 in about 7–8 minutes, or on foot, and it shortens the hike considerably.

Other helpful tips for visiting

  • Fees: The west-side lot at Grund charges a parking fee (around 1000 ISK per car), which also covers restroom access. There are no facilities at all on the east side, so plan accordingly.
  • Footwear: Wear sturdy, grippy shoes — the east-side trail is rugged in places and the rocks near the water can be slippery.
  • Timing: The east-side hike runs roughly 1 hour each way (2 hours round trip) from the first parking lot, or about 30 minutes less if you can drive to the second lot. The west side is a much quicker in-and-out via a metal staircase (roughly 240 steps).
  • River color: The water is at its most vivid turquoise from spring through mid-summer; by late summer, increased glacial melt can turn it a silty gray, so visiting earlier in the season helps for photos.
  • Safety: The Jökla is considered one of the more dangerous rivers in Iceland — stay well back from unprotected edges, especially in wet or windy conditions.
  • En route bonus: Look out for Stuðlafoss, a basalt-column waterfall along the east-side trail — a nice photo stop partway through the hike.
  • If short on time (like us): The west side is the better choice for a quick, guaranteed view without committing to a multi-hour hike — just know you’ll be looking across the river rather than standing among the columns.

Even from the west side, the scale of the columns and the color of the water made it easy to see why this place, hidden for so long, has become one of Iceland’s most talked-about natural sights.

Posted on

Chasing Thunder: A Day at Montmorency Falls, Quebec City

Just fifteen minutes from the cobblestone streets of Old Quebec, there’s a waterfall that makes Niagara look short. Literally — Montmorency Falls stands at 83 meters, nearly 30 meters taller than its world-famous cousin. And yet somehow it stays off most travelers’ radar until they’re already booking their Quebec City trip and stumble across a photo that makes them do a double take.

I did exactly that. And I’m so glad I made the trip.

First Impressions: A Wall of White Water

Nothing quite prepares you for your first look at Montmorency Falls from the base. The Montmorency River pours over a dark, moss-streaked cliff face in a single dramatic curtain, throwing up so much mist that it drifts across the whole basin like fog rolling in off the sea. On the day I visited, the water ran heavy and churned almost golden-white at the base — spring runoff, I was told, makes the falls even more thunderous than usual.

Smaller ribbons of water trickle down the cliffs on either side of the main falls, almost like the mountain itself is sweating from the effort of holding back the main event. It’s easy to just stand at the shoreline for twenty minutes, watching the spray catch the light, before you even think about moving closer.

Crossing the Suspension Bridge

The real showstopper, though, is walking across the pedestrian suspension bridge that spans the top of the falls. It’s suspended right at the point where the river tips over the edge, so you’re essentially standing above the drop with the entire cliff and basin sprawled out beneath you. The bridge sways gently underfoot — enough to remind you exactly how high up you are — and the roar of the water below drowns out most conversation.

Pro tip: don’t rush this part. Pause halfway across and look straight down. Watching the river accelerate right before it disappears over the edge is one of those moments that photos never quite capture, though you’ll try anyway.

The View From Above

From the top of the cliff, the perspective flips entirely. Instead of looking up at a wall of falling water, you’re looking down over it — past the frothing crest of the falls, through the rising mist, to where the river fans out into a wide, calm basin dotted with little gravel islands. On a clear day you can trace the whole scene out toward the St. Lawrence River, where the Île d’Orléans bridge stretches across the water in the distance and the far shoreline rolls off into green hills.

It’s a genuinely dizzying vantage point — parts of the old hydroelectric infrastructure are visible clinging to the base of the cliff, dwarfed by the sheer scale of the falls above them, which gives you a real sense of just how much water is moving through this narrow gorge every second.

Getting Around the Park

Parc de la Chute-Montmorency is set up to let you experience the falls from every conceivable angle:

  • The cable car glides up the cliffside for those who’d rather skip the stairs (or save their legs for later).
  • The Panoramic Staircase — all 487 steps of it — zigzags down alongside the falls for anyone who wants the full up-close, misty-face experience. It’s a workout, but the switchback views make it worth every step.
  • Ziplining is available for the more adventurous, sailing right over the base of the falls.
  • Via Ferrata routes let climbers scale the cliffside rock face for an even more adrenaline-heavy perspective.

Even if you skip all the extras, simply walking the network of trails and viewpoints around the top and base of the falls will easily fill a couple of hours.

Practical Tips

  • Timing: Go earlier in the day if you can — the light hits the falls beautifully in the morning, and crowds build up by early afternoon, especially in summer.
  • What to wear: Bring a light rain jacket or expect to get misted, particularly near the base and on the suspension bridge when the wind shifts.
  • Season matters: Spring brings the most dramatic water volume from snowmelt; winter transforms the falls into a surreal ice formation nicknamed “the sugar loaf,” when frozen spray builds into a cone at the base. Both are worth planning a trip around.
  • How to get there: It’s a quick 15–20 minute drive or a short bus ride from downtown Quebec City, making it an easy half-day trip that pairs well with a morning or afternoon in Old Quebec.

Extend the Day: Île d’Orléans

If you’re already standing at the top of the falls, you’ve probably noticed the long bridge stretching out toward an island in the distance — that’s Île d’Orléans, and it’s an easy, worthwhile add-on to a Montmorency Falls day trip. The bridge crossing is just a few minutes past the park, so there’s very little extra driving involved for a lot of extra charm.

The island itself feels like a completely different pace of Quebec. Rather than cliffs and waterfalls, you get rolling farmland, roadside fruit stands, and a scattering of small villages that have kept much of their 17th- and 18th-century character. It’s often called the “Garden of Quebec,” and for good reason — the island is dense with orchards, vineyards, and berry farms.

A few things worth doing once you’re there:

  • Drive the loop road that circles the island — it’s about 67 km and takes you through all six of the island’s villages, each with its own stone church and waterfront views back toward Quebec City and the falls.
  • Stop for local food and drink. The island is known for its cider houses, small wineries, and maple products, and roadside stands sell strawberries and other produce in-season. It’s a great place to pick up a picnic.
  • Wander Sainte-Famille or Saint-Jean, two of the prettiest villages, with old stone houses and quiet harbor views.
  • Catch the view back toward the falls. From certain points along the island’s western shore, you get a completely different perspective on Montmorency Falls and the St. Lawrence — worth the stop just for the photo.

Because the island is small and the loop road is relaxed, you can easily fold a few hours here into the same day as your falls visit — starting with the roar and mist of Montmorency in the morning, then unwinding with orchard views and cider tastings on Île d’Orléans in the afternoon.

Why It’s Worth the Trip

Montmorency Falls has this rare quality of feeling both wild and completely accessible — a genuinely massive natural spectacle you can reach without a long hike or a wilderness trek. Whether you’re peering over the suspension bridge, catching your breath partway up the staircase, or just standing at the water’s edge letting the mist settle on your face, it’s the kind of place that turns a quick stop into an unplanned hour of just watching the water fall.

If Quebec City is on your itinerary, don’t let this one slip past as a footnote. Pair it with an afternoon on Île d’Orléans, and you’ve got one of the best half-day-turned-full-day excursions the region has to offer.

Posted on

Waved Albatross of Española: A Once‑in‑a‑Lifetime Wildlife Encounter

Visit the Galápagos island of Española between December to April, and you may witness one of the most extraordinary courtship rituals in the natural world. Each spring, nearly the entire global population of waved albatrosses—tens of thousands of birds—returns to this remote island to reunite with lifelong partners, raise a single chick, and perform a mating dance so intricate and theatrical that it feels choreographed by nature itself. With wingspans stretching up to eight feet, these are the largest birds in the Galápagos, yet their grace in the air contrasts beautifully with their endearing awkwardness on land. For travelers, seeing them here—on the only major breeding ground they have left—is nothing short of magical.

A Date With the Albatross: When to Plan Your Trip

The waved albatrosses follow a strict seasonal rhythm, and timing your visit is essential.

  • Late March – April (Arrival): The birds return to their only major breeding site on Española Island. Males typically arrive first to claim nesting spots, followed shortly by females.
  • April – June (Courtship & Egg Laying): This is the peak time to witness their famous courtship dance, which involves bill-clapping, bowing, and honking. Most eggs are laid during this window.
  • June – August (Incubation): Parents take turns incubating a single large egg for about two months. You can see many birds sitting on nests during this time.
  • August – November (Chick Rearing): Chicks hatch and are fed a nutrient-rich oily substance by their parents. By late in this period, large, fluffy, brown chicks are visible across the colony.
  • December – early January (Fledging & Departure): Young birds take their first flights, often wobbling to the cliffs for take-off. By mid-January, the colony is usually deserted as they head to the coasts of Ecuador and Peru

We were at the Waved Albatross nests on Española Island (specifically at Punta Suarez) at the end of December. We not only saw the young chicks learning to fly, but also saw the courtship dance (Vidoe below)

Choosing the Right Cruise: Why an Eastern Itinerary Matters

Because waved albatrosses breed only on Española Island, your cruise route determines whether you’ll see them at all.

The landing at Punta Suárez is rugged and dramatic, with blowholes, cliffs, and colonies of seabirds swirling overhead. But nothing prepares you for the moment you see your first albatross waddling across the lava rock, its oversized bill and blue‑tinted feet giving it a charmingly awkward elegance.

Meet the Waved Albatross: The Ocean’s Master Glider

The waved albatross (Phoebastria irrorata) is a study in contrasts—both powerful and delicate, comical and majestic.

  • Wingspan: Up to 2.5 meters (8 feet), the largest in the Galápagos
  • Appearance: White head with a creamy yellow crown and neck, chestnut‑brown body, white underwings, and a long, dull‑yellow bill
  • Namesake: The subtle wave‑like pattern on the adults’ wings
  • Lifestyle: Exceptional gliders, spending years at sea without touching land
  • Diet: Fish, squid, and invertebrates—often scavenged near fishing boats or stolen from boobies

Despite their size, they move with surprising grace in the air, riding ocean winds for hours without flapping. On land, however, they transform into endearing, slightly clumsy characters—true to the Spanish root of “bobo,” meaning “foolish,” a name shared with their booby neighbors.

The Courtship Dance: One of Nature’s Most Theatrical Rituals

If there is one wildlife behavior that defines the waved albatross, it is their courtship dance—a ritual so intricate and expressive that it feels choreographed.

Pairs face each other, leaving just enough space to stretch their long necks. Then the performance begins:

  • Bill circling
  • Bill clacking
  • Hollow wooden tapping sounds
  • Exaggerated head sways
  • Honking
  • Bowing
  • A waddle that borders on comedic
  • And the occasional cow‑like “moo”

For new pairs or those that failed to breed the previous year, the dance can last hours—sometimes days. It is a test of compatibility, trust, and lifelong partnership.

Because waved albatrosses are monogamous, this ritual is not just courtship—it is a reaffirmation of a bond that may last decades.

Life on Española: Nesting, Parenting, and the Long Journey Ahead

Once bonded, the pair lays a single egg directly on bare ground. They take turns incubating it for nearly two months. After hatching:

  • Chicks join “nursery groups” while parents forage
  • Adults return to feed them a nutrient‑rich oily liquid
  • Young albatrosses fledge at around 5.5 months
  • They then spend up to six years at sea before returning to Española to find a mate

With only one chick per year and threats from fishing, pollution, and habitat changes, the species remains vulnerable—making every successful breeding season a triumph.

Baby Albatross

Why Española Is the Only Place to See Them

Nearly the entire global population—estimated at 50,000–70,000 individuals—returns to Española each year. A tiny secondary colony exists on Isla de la Plata off mainland Ecuador, but with fewer than 20 breeding pairs, Española remains the heart of the species.

This exclusivity makes your visit feel even more special. You’re not just seeing a bird—you’re witnessing a species in its ancestral home, performing rituals unchanged for millennia.

Final Thoughts: A Wildlife Encounter Worth Crossing Oceans For

Standing on the cliffs of Española, watching thousands of waved albatrosses reunite, dance, nest, and soar, you feel the pulse of the Galápagos in its purest form. It’s a reminder of how fragile and extraordinary these islands are—and why they continue to inspire travelers, naturalists, and storytellers alike.

If your Galápagos journey is about connection, wonder, and witnessing nature at its most theatrical, then timing your trip to meet the waved albatross is an experience you’ll never forget.

Posted on

Punta Pitt Wildlife Guide: Home of the Red‑, Blue‑, and Nazca Boobies

Boobies—named after the Spanish word bobo—meaning “clumsy”—boobies earned their name from their slightly awkward, waddling gait on land. The Galapagos Islands are home to three different species of boobies, which include the blue-footed, red-footed, and Nazca boobies. Each species possesses its own remarkable traits and behaviors, making them a highlight for wildlife enthusiasts. Their unique coloring not only helps in distinguishing between the species but also plays a role in courtship displays, where vivid colors attract mates and signify health. Observing these dazzling birds in their natural habitat provides a rare glimpse into their daily lives, from their fascinating mating rituals to their playful interactions with one another. It is well worth the journey to the Enchanted Isles of the Galapagos to witness these fascinating and captivating species found throughout the archipelago, which bring vibrancy and life to the rugged landscapes, enhancing the overall allure of this UNESCO World Heritage site.

Punta Pitt, located on San Cristóbal Island, is an iconic destination in the Galápagos, known for being the only place where you can observe all three species of boobies: the blue-footed booby, the red-footed booby, and the Nazca booby. This site, with its unique biodiversity and stunning landscapes, attracts nature and wildlife enthusiasts, making it a must-see stop for anyone visiting the archipelago.

The Three Boobies of Punta Pitt

Because of its unique geographical location and abundant food supply, these species coexist without competition, each utilizing a different nesting niche

  • Blue-footed Boobies: Typically nest further inland on the ground, away from the cliffs.
  • Red-footed Boobies: The rarest of the three in the archipelago, they are uniquely distinguished by their ability to nest in trees and shrubs, such as Palo Santo.
  • Nazca Boobies: Also known as Masked Boobies, they prefer nesting directly along the cliff edges

Visiting Punta Pitt

How to Get There: You can visit via a Galápagos cruise or a day tour departing from Puerto Baquerizo Moreno on San Cristóbal. The boat ride takes approximately 1.5 to 2 hours each way. The cruise we were on had a planned stop at Punta Pitt in the late afternoon, when the birds were returning home after a day at sea. We got to see all 3 bobbies here, but the red-footed booby was definitely the highlight.

  • The Experience: Most tours involve a wet landing on an “olivine” beach (greenish-tinted sand) inhabited by a bachelor colony of sea lions. From there, you’ll hike a steep, rocky trail (approx. 1.5–2 hours) to reach the clifftop nesting sites.
  • Best Time to Visit: While wildlife is present year-round, June to November is generally the best period to see booby mating displays and peak nesting activity. 

Red Footed Bobby (Sula sula)

The red-footed booby is the tiniest of the boobies found on Galapagos, and it quickly proves that the nickname only tells half the story. The smallest of the Galápagos boobies is also the most agile: capable of soaring more than 90 miles over open ocean, diving up to 130 feet for fish, and using its vivid red webbed feet to propel itself underwater with surprising speed. Unlike most web-footed birds, red-footed boobies perch in trees and shrubs, giving them a unique silhouette against the island vegetation. Travelers can spot them at Punta Pitt on San Cristóbal and in large colonies on Genovesa Island, two of the best wildlife-viewing sites in the archipelago.

Blue footed Booby (Sula nebouxii)

The most iconic of the trio, the blue-footed booby also carries the “bobo” name thanks to its comical walk—but its brilliant turquoise feet are anything but silly. Their color comes from a carotenoid-rich diet, and during courtship, those feet become the star of an elaborate mating dance. Males lift each foot in an exaggerated strut, showing off their brightest blues; females respond by mirroring the steps, followed by bill clacking and whistles if they approve. Beyond their charm, blue-footed boobies are extraordinary hunters, spotting fish from high above and plunging into the water at speeds approaching 60 mph. Because they have no natural predators in the Galápagos, they’re wonderfully unbothered by humans and can be seen on nearly every major island—a delight for photographers and wildlife lovers alike.

Nazca Booby (Sula granti)

The largest of the Galápagos boobies, the Nazca booby also inherited the “bobo” nickname for its land-bound awkwardness, though its sleek white plumage, orange bill, and black-tipped wings give it a striking, almost regal presence. This species is best known for a dramatic behavior called obligate siblicide: parents lay two eggs, but only the stronger chick survives, ensuring that enough resources are available for one healthy fledgling. Despite this harsh strategy, Nazca boobies are captivating to watch as they glide effortlessly over the ocean and nest in dense colonies along the cliffs. They are most commonly seen on Punt Pitt, Genovesa Island, and Española Island, where visitors can observe their nesting sites up close along marked trails.

Final thoughts

In a place as wild and wondrous as the Galápagos, the boobies embody everything that makes these islands unforgettable—quirky charm, fearless curiosity, and evolutionary brilliance on full display. Whether it’s the red-footed booby perched improbably in a shrub, the blue-footed booby performing its turquoise‑footed dance, or the regal Nazca booby guarding its cliffside nest, each species offers a glimpse into the archipelago’s untamed spirit. Spotting even one is a delight but encountering all three feels like a true Galápagos rite of passage. For travelers who come seeking wildlife encounters found nowhere else on Earth, the boobies are a joyful reminder of why these Enchanted Isles continue to inspire wonder long after the journey ends.

Posted on

Hiking to the Stunning Lake Above the Ocean

The desktop background that set me on an adventure to the Faroe Islands…. You might have seen this lake as a desktop background. Once I saw it, I knew I had to visit. The entire trip was planned with a hike to the Lake above the ocean as the primary focus.

Lake Sørvágsvatn, the largest lake in the Faroe Islands, covers an impressive 3.4 square kilometers and appears to hover enchantingly over the North Atlantic Ocean from the dramatic heights of Trælanípa Cliff. This optical illusion is caused by the elevation of the lake compared to the sea. At its end the stunning 30-meter-high Bøsdalafossur waterfall that cascades gracefully down into the ocean. This picturesque viewpoint not only showcases the waterfall, but it also offers an awe-inspiring view of the sea stack Geituskoradrangur.

* The lake is known by two names, Sørvágsvatn and Leitisvatn, due to local preferences. Sørvágsvatn is preferred by the people of Sørvágur, while Leitisvatn is favored by those in Miðvágur and Sandavágur.

Hiking guidelines and starting point

You need to pay to do this hike as the lake and the cliffs sit on private property. There is a dirt parking lot at the beginning and a reception hut. You can buy tickets as well as get snacks and souvenirs from this small shop. More information can be found at the landowners’ web page.

The gate is open 24/7. If you want to do an early morning sunrise or sunset hike, you can still do the hike and pay later. (Honor system). It’s an easy hike with minimal elevation gain. However, wear proper shoes as the muddy path can get slippery when it’s raining.

How to get to Sørvágsvatn/ Leitisvatn lake

Public Bus Travel from Tórshavn

  • The main bus terminal in Tórshavn is known as Farstøðin. It serves public blue buses. These buses run between Tórshavn and villages on Vágar Island (where the lake is located).
  • You can take a bus from Tórshavn to nearby villages such as Miðvágur or Sandavágur. These villages serve as common starting points for hikes to the lake.
  • The ride from Tórshavn to these villages generally takes around 40 minutes to an hour. This includes travel through the underwater tunnel that connects Streymoy (Tórshavn’s island) and Vágar Island.

Self Drive/ Car

You can drive to the dirt parking lot, pay the fee at the entrance, and hike on your own. It is a straightforward route that can be easily done on your own.

Private guided tour

You can hire a private guide for this tour. I took a guided hike with JH Tours, which is run by Johan and his family. I highly recommend JH tours for all tours around the Faroe Islands. You can reach him at Faroestours@gmail.com or (+298)28 28 00. They can plan 6-7-day tours that include all the highlights of the Faroes. You can book a local lunch cooked by Johan’s mother, Jona. This way, you can have an authentic Faroese culinary experience at their house.

This tour also includes visiting Múlafossur Waterfall  and the village of  Gásadalur. We also stopped at the village of Bøur and had a packed picnic lunch on the black sand beach with the views of Tindhólmur and the stacks Drangarnir.

Key Highlights on the hike

From the reception, the hike is pretty simple and straightforward. You can stop at various view points. Some of the most impressive view points include:

Trælanípa (Viewpoint 1 and 3)

Trælanípa is a magnificent perpendicular rock wall. It juts an impressive 142 meters upwards out of the vast expanse of the sea. This creates a breathtaking sight for all who visit. The name Trælanípa translates to Slave Cliff, a chilling reminder of its dark history. It derives its name from the Viking Age, a time when the harsh realities of survival dictated brutal outcomes. During this period, old and sick slaves who were no longer deemed useful to their masters were callously pushed off the mountain, offering a stark reflection of the values and harshness of that era.

If the cliffs look familiar, it has been used in the Peter Pan and Wendy movie. You can check out more locations in the Faroe Islands that have been shown in the film here.

Lake above the ocean (viewpoint 2)

Continuing on the path, you will take a set stairs to get to the view point of Lake above the ocean. There is a small sign that shows where the best point to stand for the best photos. It was a rainy and cloudy day, but still I managed to get a few decent shots.

Bøsdalafossur Waterfall (Viewpoint 4)

Continue down from the viewpoint of the lake above the ocean. You will have to do some rock scrambling to reach the Bøsdalafossur Waterfall viewpoint. Be careful, as the stones can be slippery especially after rain.

Bøsdalafossur Waterfall falls dramatically from Lake Leitisvatn into the North Atlantic Ocean. It flows from an impressive height of 30 metres (98 feet) above sea level. This creates a stunning visual spectacle that captivates nature lovers and adventurers alike.

From viewpoint 4, you can also see Geituskorardrangur is a free-standing rock wall. This rock formation towers 116 metres (380 feet) above sea level. 

Other interesting things on the hike

The whole hike is next to the Lake. You will see waterfalls on the way, especially after the rain. These spring waters are safe to drink but make sure you will bottles from the flowing part and not the stagnant water. Our tour group empties our water bottles and fills them with refreshing spring water.

Final thoughts

Hike to Lake above the ocean is a very easy hike with tremendous rewards. This hike can be easily combined with nearby attractions. These include visiting the village of
Bøur, Múlafossur Waterfall, and Gásadalur. You can also combine this trip with the boat tour of Drangarnir & Múlafossur. Alternatively, consider the Drangarnir Hiking Tour, especially if you have a car, which gives you more flexibility to explore. Also, stop by the statue of Nix at the other end of the lake, close to the airport.

Posted on

Tales from Balkan- Blagaj Tekke-A peaceful oasis

  1. Where is Blagaj
  2. Blagaj Tekke the dervish retreat
  3. Best place to take photos of the Tekke
  4. Entrance fee

Where is Blagaj

The village of Blagaj na buni is located about 10 km (6 miles) from Mostar that could be reached by bus or car. The main attraction of the village is the Tekke or Tekkja – a place of spiritual retreat and reflection for Dervish monks. The unique feature of this Tekke is that it is built on a solid rocky soil at the right side of the source of the Buna River. A very high cliff stretches above the Tekija (240 meters high). On top of the cliff, you can see the remains of Stjepan Vukcic-Kosaca’s fort-town from the Middle Ages. The Buna River that flows adjacent to the monastery emerges from under the massive Karst stone formation after traveling over 19 kms underground.

Spring of Buna River

Blagaj Tekke the dervish retreat

The primary purpose of the structure was to serve as a dervish Zikr praise-chanting (praising God and His names) venue and a retreat, and it is still active religious complex with Zikir praise chanting happening 3 times a week. The tekke was built around 1520 and it features elements of both Ottoman architecture and Mediterranean style. The dervishes follow a mystical strand of Islam in which the peaceful contemplation of nature plays a part, hence the Tekke’s idyllic positioning next to the river.

You can go inside the building by paying 10 marks and there are several different rooms including a kitchen, guest house, hammam, a room for praying, tombs, and a courtyard. There are some interesting features including the perforated dome in the hammam and beautiful wooden ceiling of  semahana, or the room used to perform zikr (religious chanting).

Best place to take photos of the Tekke

To get the iconic reflection of the Tekke in the water, you need to get the other side of the river. Cross-over the first bridge and walk behind the restaurants until you see a set of stairs that lead to the viewpoint.

Stairs leading to other side of the river to get the iconic photos

Entrance fee

There is an entrance fee to go inside the Tekke- It is 10 marks/ 4-5 euros. Women are expected to cover their head and arms as well as wear long skirts. These are provided free of cost at the entrance.

Other things to do around Blagaj

There are several restaurants around Blagaj and you can get traditional food and drinks and enjoy the peaceful surroundings.

Posted on

Paradise found- A review of staying in Chachagua rainforest bungalow in Costa Rica

Chachagua Rainforest Hotel and Hot Springs located between the Children’s Eternal Rainforest and the Arenal Volcano National Park and is off the beaten path but still an amazing place to stay. We spent 4 nights during Christmas break and loved the room, the grounds, and over all ambience of the place.

Only con is that it is about 20 min from La Fortuna town and if you don’t have your own car, you are stuck eating in-house restaurant food for the length of your stay. The food is not bad but limited as they try to do as much farm to table type with the fresh fruits and vegetables grown in their farm. Unlike the hotels in the town, you can’t walk or Uber to a local Soda/ restaurant and taking a cab is bit on expensive side( $50-80).

The property has 28 bungalows and feels like a mix of rainforest and tropical garden, and I could not stop taking pictures of beautiful flowers and birds that fed on them. There is a river running through the middle of the property which adds to the serenity of the hotel. The hotel has about 3-4 small thermal pools fed by volcanic hot water an additional plus for the place. The thermal pools are not as hot as the pools near the volcano but warm enough to relax after a long day of hiking.

Welcome cocktail
Shampoo Ginger

The hotel sits on 94 hectares of rainforest, and it is isolated and unspoiled. This hotel was featured in 1000 places to see before you die by Patricia Shultz, and we felt like it was one the best hotel we stayed. The hotel also has its own waterfall, and I spent every morning just admiring the calmness and setting of this waterfall. There are tons of hiking paths, and you can watch birds, monkeys, and sloths on the property.

The Bungalows: Most of the rooms are 1-bedroom bungalows with the porch in the front. The individual bungalows are surrounded by trees and bushes and connected by walking paths and are very private. The porch has a hammock, a sofa with coffee table, and built in wooden table and stools. If you decide to get a massage or facial, they bring the massage table to the porch, and you can get a massage in the tranquility of rain forest. We stayed in room 107 and felt like we were cocooned in our own rainforest. Some of the bigger bungalows have plunge pool and jacuzzi tubs.

Massage set up on the porch
Massage on the porch with real rainforest sounds
Walkways connecting bungalows.

Night walk and Bullet ants– We did nigh walk on the property where we were able to see various kinds of frogs, toads, turtles, sleeping hummingbird, but what we didn’t expect to see was Bullet ants. Bullet ants are named after its powerful and potent sting that feels like being shot, and they are also called “hormiga veinticuatro” or “24 (hour) ant” by the locals, referring to the 24 hours of pain that follow being stung by one of these ants. There were tons of these ants roaming around lake, on fences and our guide warned us not to lean on anything. Thankfully nobody was bit, but presence of these ants added to mystery of the night. Bullet ants are 4 times the size of regular ant and are nocturnal.

Night walk Toad
Bullet ant
Sleeping butterfly

Birds and working farm – One of my favorite memories of this hotel is waking up in the morning and looking out of the window to see a hummingbird feeding on heliconia flower. This happened pretty much every day and the hotels has tons of hummingbirds that feed on the tropical flowers on the property. On my morning hike every day, I would spend some time watching birds including Toucans. The last day, we decided to check out the cocoa and coffee farm where they teach how to make coffee and cocoa. I wish I had ventured out to this place earlier on our stay. Since this is a working farm, there are tons of fruit trees and Toucans and Aracari’s hanging out here feeding on the fruits. It is few steps from the waterfall and definitely worth checking out both for the cooking class as well as for birds.

Toucan in flight
Farm on the Chachagua hotel
Sugar Cane juice maker

Ceiba Tree– Hiking within the property, there are signs for Ceiba tree which is well worth the visit. It’s a giant tree that stands tall among the rainforest trees and after visiting the tree, I did some research and found out that this tree is the national tree of Guatemala and has significant place in both Mayan and African cultures.

Ceiba Tree on Chachagua
Ceiba Tree on Chachagua

Called as the First Tree or Green Tree in Mayan language (Yax Che), according to Maya mythology, Ceiba tree the symbol of the universe. The tree signified a route of communication between the three levels of earth. Its roots were said to reach down into the underworld, its trunk represented the middle world where the humans live, and its canopy of branches arched high in the sky symbolized the upper world and the thirteen levels in which the Maya heaven was divided (Source: https://www.thoughtco.com/ceiba-pentandra-sacred-tree-maya-171615).

Food and Drinks – Since we didn’t rent a car, we ended up eating at the Colibri restaurant on site which was pretty decent albeit limited selection. There was live music every day and we enjoyed ordering Tikki drinks just to see how many different kinds of cups we get.

Final Thoughts:

All in all, staying at Chachagua Rainforest Hotel and Spa was an amazing experience. I loved the cozy, private bungalows, and numerous hiking trails as well as the river and waterfall. The staff was very pleasant and helpful, and organized all the acuities including ziplining, hike to Rio Celeste, and white-water rafting through the hotel and had a great time.

Some more random pictures taken from the hike on the property: